Radiator / Antifreeze questions
Discussion
Ive been filling up the cerb with water all summer, the rad is quite full. Questions:
1) Whats the capacity of the radiator? Isnt it 8 litres++ (ish)?
2) If I use a syphon(sp) pype how much water am I likely to drain
3) I bought some 50/50 antifreeze today. Is it normal when winter sets in to drain all the water from the rad and make sure the mixture is strong enough?
1) Whats the capacity of the radiator? Isnt it 8 litres++ (ish)?
2) If I use a syphon(sp) pype how much water am I likely to drain
3) I bought some 50/50 antifreeze today. Is it normal when winter sets in to drain all the water from the rad and make sure the mixture is strong enough?
carl_w said:
Ive been filling up the cerb with water all summer, the rad is quite full.
Just what i thought. I used to have to top mine up weekly. There was indeed a leak and now all is fine.
If you buy the spec antifreeze as recommended by TVR, does it not say on teh bottle the concentration required for summer and for winter?
gbbird said:
Ive been filling up the cerb with water all summer, the rad is quite full.
Just what i thought. I used to have to top mine up weekly. There was indeed a leak and now all is fine.
If you buy the spec antifreeze as recommended by TVR, does it not say on teh bottle the concentration required for summer and for winter?
I had my leak fixed earlier in the year, and my rad has only water in it. How do I drain the rad though, so I can fill it up with clean water and antifreeze?
Either unhook the bottom pipe out the radiator to drain the whole system.
Or undo the bolt on the top drivers side of the rad and let it drain out. That should get a decent amount out (not sure how much). Probably a good idea to bleed it afterwards though so you don't get any airlocks anywhere.
Or undo the bolt on the top drivers side of the rad and let it drain out. That should get a decent amount out (not sure how much). Probably a good idea to bleed it afterwards though so you don't get any airlocks anywhere.
I would recomend filling with a 50/50 mixture. This gives best corrosion resistance. It also means if ever you have to top up with neat tap water in an emergency you have a bit of concentration in hand. If you have been topping up with water all summer, then drain approx half out and top up with neat antifreeze. If the capacity is 15 LTRS I would buy 2 drums ( 1 gallon or 4.5 LTRS ) of antifreeze. If any is left over then you can use it to top up any future leaks.
Pop over tonight if you like. Don't forget to bring A antifreeze and B Pizza!
Give us a phone to discuss if you like. If you are coming let me know, and I will get the garage heaters flashed up......
Pop over tonight if you like. Don't forget to bring A antifreeze and B Pizza!
Give us a phone to discuss if you like. If you are coming let me know, and I will get the garage heaters flashed up......
speed8 said:
Either unhook the bottom pipe out the radiator to drain the whole system. Or undo the bolt on the top drivers side of the rad and let it drain out. That should get a decent amount out (not sure how much). Probably a good idea to bleed it afterwards though so you don't get any airlocks anywhere.
Cheers. Is the bolt easy enough to find, and how do you 'bleed' the rad to prevent airlocks?
Nickccc said:Thanks Nick, will remember that for the future!
Bob,
The Cerb has an aluminium engine; it needs coolant inhibiter at all times not just summer.
BIG DUNC said:Ooooh, thanks!
I would recomend filling with a 50/50 mixture. This gives best corrosion resistance. It also means if ever you have to top up with neat tap water in an emergency you have a bit of concentration in hand. If you have been topping up with water all summer, then drain approx half out and top up with neat antifreeze. If the capacity is 15 LTRS I would buy 2 drums ( 1 gallon or 4.5 LTRS ) of antifreeze. If any is left over then you can use it to top up any future leaks.
Pop over tonight if you like. Don't forget to bring A antifreeze and B Pizza!
Give us a phone to discuss if you like. If you are coming let me know, and I will get the garage heaters flashed up......
Email through your pizza order and I'll be round 8ish 
Bleeding here
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=196764&f=6&h=0&hw=bleed
Screw is near the power steering cap, you can't miss it.
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=196764&f=6&h=0&hw=bleed
Screw is near the power steering cap, you can't miss it.
speed8 said:
Disregard my hand but the tap you can see on the water rail (middle left of picture) is the one that doesn't always seal after it gets opened.
Is the tap the rusty looking thing, to the left of the knuckle of your thumb? Thanks for taking the pic! Dunc, do you know where to bleed the water out from, cause Im not entirely sure
Just by draining out of the bolt at the top of the rad, we put at least as much in as came out, so I don't think we let any air in there. I havn't heard from Bob since he left, I assume you got home OK mate?
Do you have to take any covers off to get to the PAS cap and that bleed screw? If not where is it? ( I have not worked on a Cerbera before ). Since time was limited ( the poor man had to rush off to see his better half ) I did not want to start taking lots of covers off a car I wasn't familier with "just in case".
Do you have to take any covers off to get to the PAS cap and that bleed screw? If not where is it? ( I have not worked on a Cerbera before ). Since time was limited ( the poor man had to rush off to see his better half ) I did not want to start taking lots of covers off a car I wasn't familier with "just in case".
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