Thermostatic rad valves
Discussion
Was thinking about picking some of these up to make things more efficient, but how do you set the main thermostat with these installed? If you set it higher than the temp the valves are set for, the boiler will never shut off and if you set it lower, whats the point in having them?
I've got an old-style baxi with a stat on the h/w tank, a stat on the wall and a valve after the pump to switch between h/w only or heating as well if that makes a differece?
I've got an old-style baxi with a stat on the h/w tank, a stat on the wall and a valve after the pump to switch between h/w only or heating as well if that makes a differece?
The idea is that the main stat goes in a "colder" room.
Once the other rooms are up to temp, those rads will effectively shut down, only opening enough to maintain (not increase) the room temps, and the "cold" room will benefit from a much increased flow rate, so aiding it in warming up. Once the "cold" room gets up to temp, the boiler will shut down until the temp has dropped by approx 1.5C, then it will fire up again. By this time, all the other rooms in your house will have dropped in temp as well, and when the boiler kicks in they will warm up as well.
Thermostatic rad valves are a must have if you want good control of a rooms temperature, but they should "really" be set and forget, not played with all the time, and they are a definite cost saver over on/off valves.
Once the other rooms are up to temp, those rads will effectively shut down, only opening enough to maintain (not increase) the room temps, and the "cold" room will benefit from a much increased flow rate, so aiding it in warming up. Once the "cold" room gets up to temp, the boiler will shut down until the temp has dropped by approx 1.5C, then it will fire up again. By this time, all the other rooms in your house will have dropped in temp as well, and when the boiler kicks in they will warm up as well.
Thermostatic rad valves are a must have if you want good control of a rooms temperature, but they should "really" be set and forget, not played with all the time, and they are a definite cost saver over on/off valves.
When fitting thermostatic valves, it is recommended that two radiators (most systems) are not fitted with thermostatic valves. The reason for this is to let a reasonable flow of water circulate the system and not put too much pressure on the pump.
Usually best to leave bathroom rads without the stats.
Usually best to leave bathroom rads without the stats.
If you are going to fit TRVs throughout then you shouldn't fit one on the radiator in the space containing the roomstat (as above!!
)
The lockshield valves should be properly balanced as normal. Make sure you buy bi-directional valves so that you can fit them on whichever end you want.
) The lockshield valves should be properly balanced as normal. Make sure you buy bi-directional valves so that you can fit them on whichever end you want.
aldi said:
Was thinking about picking some of these up to make things more efficient, but how do you set the main thermostat with these installed? If you set it higher than the temp the valves are set for, the boiler will never shut off and if you set it lower, whats the point in having them?
I've got an old-style baxi with a stat on the h/w tank, a stat on the wall and a valve after the pump to switch between h/w only or heating as well if that makes a differece?
The boiler will stop when the water temp gets to the temp set on the boiler- mine does anyway. It should shutoff quicker if all the valves are shut on the rad as you'll only b heatting the water in the pipes not to the rads. That's how I understand it.
>> Edited by JoolzB on Tuesday 13th December 19:27
ferg said:
If you are going to fit TRVs throughout then you shouldn't fit one on the radiator in the space containing the roomstat (as above!!
The lockshield valves should be properly balanced as normal. Make sure you buy bi-directional valves so that you can fit them on whichever end you want.
getting good at this aren't you ferg.
Quote: blueyes.
I live in a flat.
I'm upstairs of the flat below.
I'm downstairs of the flat above.
What should I do?
Having consulted inventawhopper.org:
Double insulate all ceilings.
Cut circular holes approximately nine inches (220mm) in diameter to all floors.
Three holes should suffice for living and dinning rooms, two for bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchen.
Purloin traffic cones, one for each hole. Position cones as close to holes as possible. Said cones should not be decorated to match furnishings, as this would negate the warning nature of cones.
Turn off boiler.
PS. When it gets to hot, invert cones!
>> Edited by robinhood21 on Tuesday 13th December 20:08
I live in a flat.
I'm upstairs of the flat below.
I'm downstairs of the flat above.
What should I do?
Having consulted inventawhopper.org:
Double insulate all ceilings.
Cut circular holes approximately nine inches (220mm) in diameter to all floors.
Three holes should suffice for living and dinning rooms, two for bedrooms, bathrooms and kitchen.
Purloin traffic cones, one for each hole. Position cones as close to holes as possible. Said cones should not be decorated to match furnishings, as this would negate the warning nature of cones.
Turn off boiler.
PS. When it gets to hot, invert cones!
>> Edited by robinhood21 on Tuesday 13th December 20:08
GreenV8S said:
Get the people downstairs to fit thermostatic valves for you.
coat on ...
Parrot of doom said:
Only put thermostatic valves on radiators upstairs. Downstairs, they're useless.
keep up at the back .. edited to add .. unless you get the people from downstairs to go and fit the TRVs upstairs for you .. hadn't thought of that .. they could fit them in a flat other than their own! doh!
>> Edited by trackcar on Tuesday 13th December 21:06
Gassing Station | The Pie & Piston Archive | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff