Head gasket failure?
Discussion
Hi guys - I wondered if anyone could help - I have quite a bad coolant leak (when running) coming from the front r/h cylinder head/block area. I can't see exactly where its coming from because the power steering pump is in the way, but coolant apears to be spitting out at quite a lick from somewhere behind the PAS pump and collecting on the casting for the water pump/running down the block. The thermostat housing and the water pump gasket seem dry.
It all came on quite quickly on boxing day evening whilst charging down the M4 - suddenly got cold in the car and temp started to rise, so I pulled over pretty smartish.
I can't see any traces of oil contamination in the coolant or vice-versa, but I can't think what else could have given in this area. Has anyone ever heard of an external head gasket leak like this?
If it is the head gasket, does anyone have an tips on how best to do the job/ what consumables I will need? I assume that the heads will need skimming - I've done a number on other cars, but not yet a rover V8. I'm also thinking of replacing the water pump whilst i'm at it (preventative maintenance seems to be the way forward on these cars!)- is this a part I can get through brookwells, or is it TVR specific?
Many thanks and a Happy New Year to all.
It all came on quite quickly on boxing day evening whilst charging down the M4 - suddenly got cold in the car and temp started to rise, so I pulled over pretty smartish.
I can't see any traces of oil contamination in the coolant or vice-versa, but I can't think what else could have given in this area. Has anyone ever heard of an external head gasket leak like this?
If it is the head gasket, does anyone have an tips on how best to do the job/ what consumables I will need? I assume that the heads will need skimming - I've done a number on other cars, but not yet a rover V8. I'm also thinking of replacing the water pump whilst i'm at it (preventative maintenance seems to be the way forward on these cars!)- is this a part I can get through brookwells, or is it TVR specific?
Many thanks and a Happy New Year to all.
It's not the water pump seal is it? The pump has a small hole underneath whick leaks when the seal failing. You could try torquing the head and using some bars leak fix before you decide if to remove the head. If it's just coolant pressure and not cylinder pressure you may be able to fix it this way.
If you have to lift the head, it's not a difficult job. Make sure you use the same type of gasket ie composite or tin and add some silicone where the heads meat the valley gaskets.
Boosted.
If you have to lift the head, it's not a difficult job. Make sure you use the same type of gasket ie composite or tin and add some silicone where the heads meat the valley gaskets.
Boosted.
Could it possibly be the gasket between the timing case and the engine block?
This failed on my car some time ago and others I know have had the same problem.
If it is that gasket, it costs less than a fiver and the fix is reaaltively straight forward if you're handy with the spanners.
You can find out more here [url]www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=41410&f=8&h=0&hw=timing+cover[/url]
This failed on my car some time ago and others I know have had the same problem.
If it is that gasket, it costs less than a fiver and the fix is reaaltively straight forward if you're handy with the spanners.
You can find out more here [url]www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=41410&f=8&h=0&hw=timing+cover[/url]
There are plenty of places in that sort of area that could produce a big leak like that - head gasket failure would be a long way down the list of suspects. Obviously you need to find where the water is coming from, a pressure tester would make this a lot easier. Depending where the leak is you may need to do some disassembly to locate it, but you'll need to do this anyway to fix it.
Sorry for replying to wrong post earlier!
Thanks for the replies Guys - having done a bit more digging I think that Sparky is probably right and the timing cover gasket has gone where the top rh waterway is. The water pump spindle is dry underneath - I will probably replace anyhow though.
In addition to the water punmp, whilst I have everything apart does anyone think it would also be a good idea to change the timing gear? The engine has done 45,000 miles. If so, how much more time would this involve?
Finally, does anyone have any recommendations for obtaining a replacement water pump and the sump/timing cover gaskets?
Cheers
Thanks for the replies Guys - having done a bit more digging I think that Sparky is probably right and the timing cover gasket has gone where the top rh waterway is. The water pump spindle is dry underneath - I will probably replace anyhow though.
In addition to the water punmp, whilst I have everything apart does anyone think it would also be a good idea to change the timing gear? The engine has done 45,000 miles. If so, how much more time would this involve?
Finally, does anyone have any recommendations for obtaining a replacement water pump and the sump/timing cover gaskets?
Cheers
You don't have to take the water pump off to effect this repair and can just leave it fixed to the timing cover. Without it's noisy or leaking, or there's excessive play in it, there's no point disturbing it.
You should be able to get the gaskets you need at your local Landrover emporium. That's where I got mine.
You should be able to get the gaskets you need at your local Landrover emporium. That's where I got mine.
Is it the gasket leaking or coolant travelling up the bolt threads which should have sealant on them? I'd extract the bolt, securing the cover, put silicone on it's threads and refit it to the correct torque. If it still leaks then remove and refit the cover with a new gasket.
Boosted.
Boosted.
Cheers Boosted.
At the moment I can't quite see where its coming from and think I will have to take the PAS pump off to get a good look. I will certainly refit the bolts with sealant.
Job is going to be a bit of a pain as I changed the oil and water only two weeks ago and now it sounds like I will have to change it again!
At the moment I can't quite see where its coming from and think I will have to take the PAS pump off to get a good look. I will certainly refit the bolts with sealant.
Job is going to be a bit of a pain as I changed the oil and water only two weeks ago and now it sounds like I will have to change it again!
I've stripped the front end of the engine down and it was the timing cover gasket - thanks for the advice.
What a b*gger of a job! Nothing particularly technical, but so time consuming to dismantle everything - and access is awful (especially for the crankshaft pulley bolts). Fortunately I have use of a pit - I really don't think I would have seen it through.
Now that everything is off I can see that there is a fair amount of play in the rh side (looking at engine front on) timing chain - probably 3/4" inch in the centre point. Further, the chain is only tight against the bottom spiggot to about 2/3 way round.
I think that this is probably "undue slackness" per the range rover haynes manual so I'm going to change it. Are there aftermarket conversions which are worth doing which would strengthen this item? If so, can anyone recommend a supplier?
On a different note, I am about to pull the inlet manifolds to get to the cam followers (i think one is unduly noisy). Am I right in thinking that the manifolds can be removed and put to one side without having to dspressurise/disconnect the fuel rail? If not - is this something that can be done without specialised equipment?
Many thanks and happy new years eve!
Thanks
What a b*gger of a job! Nothing particularly technical, but so time consuming to dismantle everything - and access is awful (especially for the crankshaft pulley bolts). Fortunately I have use of a pit - I really don't think I would have seen it through.
Now that everything is off I can see that there is a fair amount of play in the rh side (looking at engine front on) timing chain - probably 3/4" inch in the centre point. Further, the chain is only tight against the bottom spiggot to about 2/3 way round.
I think that this is probably "undue slackness" per the range rover haynes manual so I'm going to change it. Are there aftermarket conversions which are worth doing which would strengthen this item? If so, can anyone recommend a supplier?
On a different note, I am about to pull the inlet manifolds to get to the cam followers (i think one is unduly noisy). Am I right in thinking that the manifolds can be removed and put to one side without having to dspressurise/disconnect the fuel rail? If not - is this something that can be done without specialised equipment?
Many thanks and happy new years eve!
Thanks
Good place for a chain and sprockets would be Real Steel at Uxbridge or V8d. R/S are especially good with next day delivery.
The rail can be moved aside but it may be easier to remove it. Fuel pressure will have dropped if the cars been standing so won't be anything to worry about.
Boosted.
The rail can be moved aside but it may be easier to remove it. Fuel pressure will have dropped if the cars been standing so won't be anything to worry about.
Boosted.
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