Help! Electrical problem?

[rebelstar]

Before Christmas I had the classic dead battery symptom; turn the key and the relay behind the dash makes a machine gun sound. I put it on the Accumate for a day and it started, went off filled up with petrol, came home. So far so good.

Tried again a few days later and no sound from the relay but it sounded like the starter motor wouldn't turn and I got treated to my own version of the Blackpool Illuminations as lights came on and off all over the shop (inside and out). Put it back on the Accumate for 4 days as I had to go away.

Came back - doors wouldn't open. Just enough power to the solenoid that opens the boot latch, so I have physical access to the interior of the vehicle. This time I used a battery charger connected to the charging points under the passenger side footwell. After 12 hours, it reads that the battery is fully charged.

Still can't open any doors. And no click from the boot latch (but luckily I left that open).

Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Adam

[malman]

Sounds like a knackered battery.

I would guess it says its charged as its stopped taking any charge but that doesn't say that it really is able to hold any charge in the first place. I would get the battery properly tested but that means getting it out of the car. Most places that sell batteries can test them under load which will show dead cells etc.

[xtr2turbo]

Perhaps a quick test would be to connect a second battery vis the cigar lighter socket and see if all workd (but don't attempt to start)

[rev-erend]

My money is on a knackered batery.

You just need to check the voltage at the jump start socket
behind the passenger wheel.

Without the enging running - you should see : 12.2 to 12.8 volts

If the value is lower (say 10.8) then it's really knackered.

I would suggest trying a jump start (you will need the Leven accessory jump leads for this) - if it starts : take it to a battery place.. cost for a battery of this side will be around 90 quid.

[rebelstar]

Thanks for the replies. Here's some more information...

With the doors closed, but the boot open I can hear a soft 'clunking' sound from each wing every few seconds. I presume this is the alarm/immobiliser system doing something. With each clunk, the battery reading drops from 12.0v to 11.8v, and the lights around the interior door buttons flash.

If I hold the door buttons down, then the door release works (but the windows don't wind down). I'm guessing that there's a syncronisation issue between the button press and the alarm/immobiliser which I didn't notice before. With the doors slightly ajar, the clunking stops and the battery reads 12.1v - I think this probably means the battery is OK.

I don't have access to another battery to do a jump start right now - will hopefully try it tomorrow.

Any other ideas?

Thanks again,
Adam

>> Edited by rebelstar on Friday 30th December 17:31

[cmj]

As you can see from my other post "Battery cover / time to charge" (or something like that) I have spent weeks messing with a flat battery. What you describe sounds like the battery is still not charged or holding charge as I had similar symptoms during my own battery saga. However having now spent 4 days attached to an accumate I am relieved to report that it appears to of accepted a charge and is showing fully charged. Did you loosen any of the battery cables to the battery? If so did you push back into to place and tighten properly? (Just a thought).
Knackered battery's will often show 12v but what makes a battery OK or knackered is how long is can hold that voltage or slightly less for how long. A knackered battery will not hold 12v when load tested. A good battery will. Take the battery off and get it tested but if you are like me and probably can’t be arsed - just buy a new one and stick it on!! (NB - Most new batteries are only partially charged so make sure you use the car or put on charge straight away)

[chris watton]

I also suspect the battery to be faulty, I know that before I picked up my Tam when I bought it last year (with only over 8k miles on the clock), the battery had to be changed for a new one, as the original wasn't holding its charge as it should, causing all kind of odd problems. Since the new battery, its been fine!

[rev-erend]

The acid test will be adding another battery - if the jump solves all your problems then it's a duff battery.

When you get it started - take it somewhere to be checked properly.

A car that wont start is no fun at all..

[wild skinner]

Hi rebelstar, it is certainly a flat battery that you have there!. What to do once you are sure the battery in question is 100% is to remove the earth lead from the battery for approx 10 secs and reconnect. This will reset your immobiliser and reset you doors. Job done.

[rebelstar]

Thanks for the replies. It eventually took a charge from a regular charger (over 2-3 days) after which I drove down to Racing Green this afternoon so they could do a proper test on the battery.

The problem - faulty Accumate! Battery is fine.

Thanks to Martin and his chaps for taking a look and figuring this out.


>> Edited by rebelstar on Tuesday 3rd January 17:42