Discussion
Try as I might, I just can't stop wishing my bonnet vents (and the vent behind the roof bulge) were in their full 'cut open' glory.
Does anyone know if the factory would entertain doing it for me or would I be better off finding some glass fibre specialist? Is there any other reason aside from the stone chip/mud argument for not doing it?
Does anyone know if the factory would entertain doing it for me or would I be better off finding some glass fibre specialist? Is there any other reason aside from the stone chip/mud argument for not doing it?
the pits said:
Try as I might, I just can't stop wishing my bonnet vents (and the vent behind the roof bulge) were in their full 'cut open' glory.
Does anyone know if the factory would entertain doing it for me or would I be better off finding some glass fibre specialist? Is there any other reason aside from the stone chip/mud argument for not doing it?
You could always ring them and ask. I'd suspect they wouldn't entertain it though and a specialist would be better.
It's great to hear you're considering it though and I'd love to see the finished article if you pluck up the courage.
Reasons for not doing it?
- Strength (would the cut outs lead to cracking etc or would additional strengthening be required to make it feasible)?
- Stone chips/spray - surely not that difficult to fix (other racing cars have similar and are fine in the wet)
- Resale?
- Warranty (presumably you still have paintwork cover?)
D
edited to add: you've surely got to go the whole hog though? I loved the prototype's cut outs on the rear wings
>> Edited by _DeeJay_ on Tuesday 3rd January 12:45
_DeeJay_ said:
Reasons for not doing it?
- Strength (would the cut outs lead to cracking etc or would additional strengthening be required to make it feasible)?
- Stone chips/spray - surely not that difficult to fix (other racing cars have similar and are fine in the wet)
- Resale?
- Warranty (presumably you still have paintwork cover?)
Also water dripping onto the brake disc.
All of these problems have been discussed and can be overcome by a bodywork specialist:
reinforcement
mesh
quality of workmanship
only affected areas
tray
Half of which were designed by TVR.
The only real drawback is that it could be considered pricey for what it is. Good luck. J
Certainly the 'whole hog' approach was what I was considering. I'd like to think, on a sunny day, I'll be able to see through to the tyres, front and rear.
I noticed even the red Sagaris racer that was doing the rounds a while back still had a blocked up roof vent and the bonnet vents looked a bit crude next to the prototypes. I remember sitting in the prototype and looking back to see two little vent holes behind the driver's head. Very cool and finished neatly with a little black mesh grill (to me far preferable than the red motorshow prototype's crappy foam filling). I agree it's a risk with resale but I think Sagari buyers are a pretty specialist bunch and I hope some would see it as preferable. The biggest concern other than the potential cost is the quality of workmanship. If done badly I would be sure to regret it and it would be an expensive mistake!
But I do have a sneaking suspicion that the lifting bonnet at speed issue would be much improved with open bonnet vents...
I noticed even the red Sagaris racer that was doing the rounds a while back still had a blocked up roof vent and the bonnet vents looked a bit crude next to the prototypes. I remember sitting in the prototype and looking back to see two little vent holes behind the driver's head. Very cool and finished neatly with a little black mesh grill (to me far preferable than the red motorshow prototype's crappy foam filling). I agree it's a risk with resale but I think Sagari buyers are a pretty specialist bunch and I hope some would see it as preferable. The biggest concern other than the potential cost is the quality of workmanship. If done badly I would be sure to regret it and it would be an expensive mistake!
But I do have a sneaking suspicion that the lifting bonnet at speed issue would be much improved with open bonnet vents...
the pits said:
Certainly the 'whole hog' approach was what I was considering. I'd like to think, on a sunny day, I'll be able to see through to the tyres, front and rear.
I noticed even the red Sagaris racer that was doing the rounds a while back still had a blocked up roof vent and the bonnet vents looked a bit crude next to the prototypes. I remember sitting in the prototype and looking back to see two little vent holes behind the driver's head. Very cool and finished neatly with a little black mesh grill (to me far preferable than the red motorshow prototype's crappy foam filling). I agree it's a risk with resale but I think Sagari buyers are a pretty specialist bunch and I hope some would see it as preferable. The biggest concern other than the potential cost is the quality of workmanship. If done badly I would be sure to regret it and it would be an expensive mistake!
But I do have a sneaking suspicion that the lifting bonnet at speed issue would be much improved with open bonnet vents...
If it helps, as a potential Saggy buyer, I'd certainly see it as preferrable if done correctly. Nice colour car too....
PinkPanther said:
Is there any other reason aside from the stone chip/mud argument for not doing it?
Invalidating the TVR 3 year warranty?
PP
>> Edited by PinkPanther on Tuesday 3rd January 16:29
Do you think it would invalidate the mechanical warranty too (the paintwork warranty is only for a year isn't it?)
I did look into this when I had my Saggy, there are some more complex problems than just cutting them out and the risks of cracks appearing around them as effects racers build like this. The big problem being that TVR have built the car using the space between the inner and outer wings to run cables and pipe and have filled areas with foam. To cut through all this and reroute things and then seal everything back up where the wings lead to the cabin would be a nightmare... in the rear you've got the challenge of the fuel filler being in the way.... thought about it, looked at it hard and gave up....
Go for it! Mesh, plastic, rubber, those are your friends. I would absolutely do this!
It is true that there are cables and hoses. Just cover them up with black plastic over and under. Done.
Next, water. TVR (in their infinite stupidity) have used foam. This soaks up water, and will eventually flood the footwell. TVR's solution(!) was to block off any way of water getting to the foam (by filling in the cutouts). You will be opening them back up, so you need to stop the foam from absorbing the water. Simply coat the areas exposed to water with rubberizing spray, and make it waterproof, rather than water absorbent. And block off as much of the "face" of the foam as possible with shaped plastic and good sealant. This double layer of protection will result in less water getting to the critical areas than TVR's solution. Problem solved.
Be sure to radius all cuts, to stop concentrations of stress points/lines. You can also reinforce the areas behind the cutouts with epoxy to strengthen them. Done right, cracking won't be a problem. Even if cracks do appear, they are relatively easy to fix. Just ask people whose Cerbera roofs developed cracks.
Contact Dave Hillis at 07771 92 83 02 and he can set you straight on what needs to be done.
Best of luck, and show us pics along the way, as well as the finished product. It will be the best Sagaris out there, for sure.
It is true that there are cables and hoses. Just cover them up with black plastic over and under. Done.
Next, water. TVR (in their infinite stupidity) have used foam. This soaks up water, and will eventually flood the footwell. TVR's solution(!) was to block off any way of water getting to the foam (by filling in the cutouts). You will be opening them back up, so you need to stop the foam from absorbing the water. Simply coat the areas exposed to water with rubberizing spray, and make it waterproof, rather than water absorbent. And block off as much of the "face" of the foam as possible with shaped plastic and good sealant. This double layer of protection will result in less water getting to the critical areas than TVR's solution. Problem solved.
Be sure to radius all cuts, to stop concentrations of stress points/lines. You can also reinforce the areas behind the cutouts with epoxy to strengthen them. Done right, cracking won't be a problem. Even if cracks do appear, they are relatively easy to fix. Just ask people whose Cerbera roofs developed cracks.
Contact Dave Hillis at 07771 92 83 02 and he can set you straight on what needs to be done.
Best of luck, and show us pics along the way, as well as the finished product. It will be the best Sagaris out there, for sure.
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