Chassis paranoia.
Discussion
I decided after reading previous forums about chassis (and scaring myself into sleepness nights) to give mine a good rub down,treat and paint with por15.
So armed with axel stands, inspection light,decorators tools, screwdrivers, wire brushes, hacksaw blades (bent round in a semi circle) and a radio Ive been happily scrapping,poking and digging whilst listening in my garage for the last few nights and im pleased to say ive found nothing too major, only surface rust!! However I want to do a good job but im finding it extremley difficult to get to the top of the out riggers!
What tools have anyone used/made to get right round or can just paint over (small brush and a piece of thin cloth dipped into the paint and forced round like dental floss?)
Any help/advice is much appreciated.
Andy
So armed with axel stands, inspection light,decorators tools, screwdrivers, wire brushes, hacksaw blades (bent round in a semi circle) and a radio Ive been happily scrapping,poking and digging whilst listening in my garage for the last few nights and im pleased to say ive found nothing too major, only surface rust!! However I want to do a good job but im finding it extremley difficult to get to the top of the out riggers!
What tools have anyone used/made to get right round or can just paint over (small brush and a piece of thin cloth dipped into the paint and forced round like dental floss?)
Any help/advice is much appreciated.
Andy
To get round the top of the outriggers I use waxoyl with the extension probe on it, best you can do at the top really with lifting the body. Can you get an extension probe for teh por stuff?
Certainly is sattisfying in a strange way when you have clean ed it al down found nothing and redone it with new stuff.
BB
Certainly is sattisfying in a strange way when you have clean ed it al down found nothing and redone it with new stuff.
BB
I use a broken hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off and a bit of tape round it for a handle to clean off the sides, then to have a go at the top I thread a piece of stainless steel wire over the top and drag it backward and forwards. I tried some of the plastic banding tape that you often find round packages but that was not very effective. Have also threaded a strip of emery paper over the top so you can grab both sides but this is not possible over the entire length. I guess each car is different but mine has good clearance almost all the way back on one side and is a lot tighter on the other. In addition to the normal application kit, black WaxOyl is available (or at least was) in a fine aerosol that sprays up the gap quite nicely. For that reason my outriggers are black and the rest white paint coated with clear.
As stated, it's very difficult to get on top of the outriggers, to (a) get all the rust and dirt off, and (b) get a good, airtight coating of POR15 or similar on (which is a MUST if these products are to protect properly). For those reasons I used a pressure washer to get as much dirt off as possible (all of it I should imagine given the velocity of the water coming out from the other side of the outrigger!). If you accept you can't do a perfect clean up job, you need a coating which is happy on top of rust and the odd bit of hard to shift dirt, so avoid anything that requires e.g. "remove all dirt and loose rust, make sure surface is free from grease etc...". Waxoyl et al are designed specifically for this sort of environment. I used Tetrosyl in an aerosol as it mists, sticks and creeps better than Waxoyl IMHO. I used Waxoyl with a lance for the rest of the chassis but I've never sworn before or since like I did that day, the damn thing's so infuriating to use.
I realise you want to do a perfect job, but the reality with the body on is that you want a comprehensive and continuous coating of whatever you can get up there that will stick, keeping air and water out. The last thing you want is a patchy coat of POR15 or Hammerite as any exposed areas will rot - then the rot will creep under the surrounding paint and you're back to square one. In summary, IMO, if you can be sure you're getting a continuous coating on a clean surface, use a paint type product by all means. If you can't (and that'll mean you can't see the area anyway) I'd go for as good a clean as possible, with a wax coating.
I realise you want to do a perfect job, but the reality with the body on is that you want a comprehensive and continuous coating of whatever you can get up there that will stick, keeping air and water out. The last thing you want is a patchy coat of POR15 or Hammerite as any exposed areas will rot - then the rot will creep under the surrounding paint and you're back to square one. In summary, IMO, if you can be sure you're getting a continuous coating on a clean surface, use a paint type product by all means. If you can't (and that'll mean you can't see the area anyway) I'd go for as good a clean as possible, with a wax coating.
Hi Chaps,
Just done mine today (with the help of Barbon) and what a ball ache of a job!!
I used POR15 but first coated the chassis in POR15 Metal Ready, and then washed it off before applying the POR15 paint, and it seems to have done the job. I have heard of people having trouble with POR15 sticking to the surface, but I didn't have this prob.
I couldn't manage to get to the top of the outriggers but may give that a blast of waxoyl. I cant see it doing any harm having partial coat of POR 15 and a coat of waxoyl, got to be just as good if not better than just waxoyl on top of surface rust as this will just chip off when you next take the car out wont it??
Lig.
Just done mine today (with the help of Barbon) and what a ball ache of a job!!
I used POR15 but first coated the chassis in POR15 Metal Ready, and then washed it off before applying the POR15 paint, and it seems to have done the job. I have heard of people having trouble with POR15 sticking to the surface, but I didn't have this prob.
I couldn't manage to get to the top of the outriggers but may give that a blast of waxoyl. I cant see it doing any harm having partial coat of POR 15 and a coat of waxoyl, got to be just as good if not better than just waxoyl on top of surface rust as this will just chip off when you next take the car out wont it??
Lig.
I noticed on my car that the previous owner has had stone chip sprayed on top of the most vunerable parts of the chassis coating.This looks like a great idea to give a cushioning type protection.It certainly looks like its working as it hasn't been penetrated at all.Its been put on the front of the outriggers inside the wheelarch,and all up their lengths.Considering how cheep a can of this stuff is,it seems like a good idea to me.
. lig said:
I cant see it doing any harm having partial coat of POR 15 and a coat of waxoyl, got to be just as good if not better than just waxoyl on top of surface rust as this will just chip off when you next take the car out wont it??
You're probably right, but I didn't use POR15, so I didn't want to paint over rust (with paint designed for prepared metal).
With regard to the stone chip guard stuff, I put this on top of the painted outriggers and not only does it offer excellent protection from stone chips, but it looks neat like powder coat.
I am planning to do the best clean up job with make shift tools ( similar to what others here have done ). Then coat with POR 15. I know that it would be better that this surrounded the tubes completely, but also know that in the real world it won't. As long as it is well stuck to the steel it should not come off straight away. I will then apply a generous coat of tevtyl 506 WD over the POR 15. The tectyl is available in a spray can, and this will be used very liberaly, espesialy in the areas that have been difficult to clean and paint. At the end of the day, its not a substitute for a body of job. However, it the end result must be better than the flakey rust / mud coating at present. If it delays the start of the body off project by a few years it will be worth it. I am just hoping that I am in time and during the clean up I don't discover too many holes.....
GriffGrin said:
[quote=lig]
With regard to the stone chip guard stuff, I put this on top of the painted outriggers and not only does it offer excellent protection from stone chips, but it looks neat like powder coat.
Sounds great, whats it called? and where can I get it from?
Halfords! Comes in grey or black. I think it's made by 'hammerite', and called 'Stone Chip Guard' (or similar). Large spray cans, by the Waxoyl. It's best applied using an aerosol cap with a straw as you get better directional control. You have to be quick though as it goes on a lot thicker due the concentrated spray pattern. Doesn't come with a suitable cap and straw though (just comes with a normal cap) so you'll have to find one that fits or make do without.
griffter said:
[quote=lig]
With regard to the stone chip guard stuff, I put this on top of the painted outriggers and not only does it offer excellent protection from stone chips, but it looks neat like powder coat.
Sounds great, whats it called? and where can I get it from?
Halfords! Comes in grey or black. I think it's made by 'hammerite', and called 'Stone Chip Guard' (or similar). .
Got some Cheers!
Just done the rear chassis area and wishbones on the Griff (did the front last summer) and I only treated the parts I could get to I must admit. Didn't really get to the tops of the outriggers, just cleaned up as best I could to get the dirt out and loose rust off. I treated all the exposed parts by wire brushing down (power & hand), Hammerite (3 to 4 coats) and waxoil (with which I treated the tops of the otriggers as best I could).
The reason for this post is to ask if anyone has a found a good spray nozzle for the Waxoil. The cans give a good spray but are far too costly for a large area so I bought the pressurised spray kit. But it gives a wide, flat, spray which I find is completely wrong for doing the tubular chassis members.
Phil T
The reason for this post is to ask if anyone has a found a good spray nozzle for the Waxoil. The cans give a good spray but are far too costly for a large area so I bought the pressurised spray kit. But it gives a wide, flat, spray which I find is completely wrong for doing the tubular chassis members.
Phil T
Phil Tudhope said:
The reason for this post is to ask if anyone has a found a good spray nozzle for the Waxoil. The cans give a good spray but are far too costly for a large area so I bought the pressurised spray kit. But it gives a wide, flat, spray which I find is completely wrong for doing the tubular chassis members.
I gave up with the waxoyl kit in the end. It wasn't the spray pattern, but the damn trigger lock that got me, resulting in waxoyl going everywhere I didn't want it. In the end I brushed it on, and used aerosols where I couldn't get brushes.
The POR 15 is available from frosts, www.frost.co.uk ( or similar ) and they can mail order it.
The Tectyl 506WD will be available from Tim Lamont - ACT Products. I have not got this yet, so have not seen it. I will get a can to brush on the easy access areas, and a spray can to get to the bits you can't reach like the tops of the out riggers.
The Tectyl 506WD will be available from Tim Lamont - ACT Products. I have not got this yet, so have not seen it. I will get a can to brush on the easy access areas, and a spray can to get to the bits you can't reach like the tops of the out riggers.
I bought a little compressor with a Shutz gun for £90 to do my Chim with. Quite expensive but now I can inflate my tyres and re-waxoil whenever i like! 
I used waxoil and sprayed it on using the Shutz gun, gives a thick good coating and can be used with a extending tube to get the tops of the outriggers. Its been about 18 months since I done mine, must get under there and clean and waxoil again.
Trouble is waxoil tends to melt off anywhere near the engine bay.
I may try the Tectyl stuff, does anyone know if this can be used in a Shutz gun?
I used waxoil and sprayed it on using the Shutz gun, gives a thick good coating and can be used with a extending tube to get the tops of the outriggers. Its been about 18 months since I done mine, must get under there and clean and waxoil again.
Trouble is waxoil tends to melt off anywhere near the engine bay.
I may try the Tectyl stuff, does anyone know if this can be used in a Shutz gun?
Someone posted with protectors that sit on the inside of the wheel arch and stopped the stones/mud/other debris geeting onto the outriggers and the cross piece support strengthening the outrigger to chassis join area.
Can't find the post though - yes, I have done searches.
It only needs a piece of fibreglass (or similar) siliconed to the rear part of the front arch and the front side of the rear arch. Maybe onbe or two self tappers or even bolted? Consumable item to be replaced as and when. It can't be more than a fiver or less a corner. Any takers?
I want to POR as much as I can and waxoyl the rest (mainly outriggers) but something to silicon on to stop the crpa getting in will severly reduce any future corrosion and will be money well spent.
I can't believe it's not been done yet - if it has please advertise it.
FFG
Can't find the post though - yes, I have done searches.
It only needs a piece of fibreglass (or similar) siliconed to the rear part of the front arch and the front side of the rear arch. Maybe onbe or two self tappers or even bolted? Consumable item to be replaced as and when. It can't be more than a fiver or less a corner. Any takers?
I want to POR as much as I can and waxoyl the rest (mainly outriggers) but something to silicon on to stop the crpa getting in will severly reduce any future corrosion and will be money well spent.
I can't believe it's not been done yet - if it has please advertise it.
FFG
I found the Waxoyl lance difficult to use as it's not really long enough. If you've got a Hozelock garden sprayer you can either use the angled lance supplied (fittings are interchangeable), or just empty the Waxoyl straight into the Hozelock sprayer container. Make sure you warm up the Waxoyl first or it won't mist properly.
I hate waxoyl as I always seem to get more on me than the car but it seems the only reasonable option without lifting the body. Can the body be lifted say 2 inches without affecting anything? I guess not.
Once I've done the job I want soemthing to preserve it - someone must be good with fibreglass, or plastic, and can mould a few sheets - I don't mind being guinea pig - live in Brum - c'mon Mr V.
FFG
Once I've done the job I want soemthing to preserve it - someone must be good with fibreglass, or plastic, and can mould a few sheets - I don't mind being guinea pig - live in Brum - c'mon Mr V.
FFG
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