Replacing HT Leads and Cleaning/Checking Coils
Discussion
Hi all,
Just ordered a set of Magnecor race leads from ACT for my 1997 4.2 Cerbie and will be fitting them tomorrow !
Was wondering whether you could help me with a couple of questions:
- why is it bad for HT leads to 'cross over' ? (Have read this on various threads talking about replacing leads)
- I would like to check/clean the coil packs - how can I remove them, if at all ? What should I look out for i.e. how can I check whether they are working/not working ?
- I also would like to check that the throttle pots are working - haven't got a laptop but have got a multimeter.
Any advice would be greatly welcomed ! Apologies in advance for any stupid questions - trying to get onto a steep learning curve.. !
Many thanks
Pete
Just ordered a set of Magnecor race leads from ACT for my 1997 4.2 Cerbie and will be fitting them tomorrow !
Was wondering whether you could help me with a couple of questions:
- why is it bad for HT leads to 'cross over' ? (Have read this on various threads talking about replacing leads)
- I would like to check/clean the coil packs - how can I remove them, if at all ? What should I look out for i.e. how can I check whether they are working/not working ?
- I also would like to check that the throttle pots are working - haven't got a laptop but have got a multimeter.
Any advice would be greatly welcomed ! Apologies in advance for any stupid questions - trying to get onto a steep learning curve.. !
Many thanks
Pete
Anything that touches an HT lead makes it easier for the insulation to break down at that point. Also if you have leads running parallel close together for a significant distance then you can get an inductive transfer between then which dissipates the spark.
Edited to add: but in the context of replacing leads, 'crossing' might refer to connecting the ends to the wrong place so the spark was delivered to the wrong plug.
>> Edited by GreenV8S on Friday 6th January 12:17
Edited to add: but in the context of replacing leads, 'crossing' might refer to connecting the ends to the wrong place so the spark was delivered to the wrong plug.
>> Edited by GreenV8S on Friday 6th January 12:17
Yes the coil packs can be removed. 4 allen bolts one each corner going into a mounting plate thats bolted to the engine. The rear end of the plate has the 100amp fuse holder bolted to it so its a good opportunity to remove it and clean the cables and fit a new fuse.
I took the mounting plate out as well as the coils to check for detritus and stray allen bolts come loose from the airboxes. (A stray bolt ate the alternator belt earlier this year). Copper ease the bolts before refitting them.
The access to the coil packs is quite limited under the fuel rail so it is much much easier to do all of this with it removed.
I did manage to replace the alternator belt with the fuel rail still in place. It got easier as the flesh was scraped off the bones and the blood lubricated what was left of my fingers
But not recomended.
>> Edited by mikesr on Saturday 7th January 19:24
>> Edited by mikesr on Saturday 7th January 19:25
I took the mounting plate out as well as the coils to check for detritus and stray allen bolts come loose from the airboxes. (A stray bolt ate the alternator belt earlier this year). Copper ease the bolts before refitting them.
The access to the coil packs is quite limited under the fuel rail so it is much much easier to do all of this with it removed.
I did manage to replace the alternator belt with the fuel rail still in place. It got easier as the flesh was scraped off the bones and the blood lubricated what was left of my fingers
But not recomended. >> Edited by mikesr on Saturday 7th January 19:24
>> Edited by mikesr on Saturday 7th January 19:25
Just remembered one of Joos pearls of wisdom. The mini timer connectors that connect the coil packs to the ECU will have been in situ in all the heat of the engine bay for some considerable time. Its apparently not unusual to get horrendous misfires cos the plug and socket don't like the bits of each other now touching. wobbly d 40 and the like to clean them up will hopefully avoid that little problem.
I found the leads were an absolute mare to get onto the plugs properly. Again a squirt of something like wd40 helps, in this case to lubricate the offending items which makes it easier to feel the click as the connector mates with the plug.
I found the leads were an absolute mare to get onto the plugs properly. Again a squirt of something like wd40 helps, in this case to lubricate the offending items which makes it easier to feel the click as the connector mates with the plug.
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