Accelerator Slack
Discussion
While trying to adjust my Griff's pedals for more effective heel & toe I have found that there is about 1" of freeplay at the accelerator pedal. Before I give my chiropractor's New Year finances a kick start can anyone give me some hints as to which end of the cable has adjustment and what else I should look out for.
GriffOz
GriffOz
GriffOz said:
While trying to adjust my Griff's pedals for more effective heel & toe I have found that there is about 1" of freeplay at the accelerator pedal. Before I give my chiropractor's New Year finances a kick start can anyone give me some hints as to which end of the cable has adjustment and what else I should look out for.
GriffOz
1" is a lot. There's cable adjustment under the bonnet but the problem is more likely to be at the pedal end. I can't remember the arrangement there, but I know I fixed mine with pull ties! I think I used them to hold the cable sheath securely to the bracket, then adjusted the under bonnet end.
Problem is the pedal isn't adjustable for height (other than by bending the arm) and I still can't get mine right for heel and toe. The brake pedal is very firm and the accelerator pedal is just too low. It really needs a pedal cover mounted via a spacer block or something.
Hi chaps,
The throttle pedal arm pivot is fixed, but the cable sleeve is clipped into a "C" shaped bracket located at the upper most point of the pedal armature. This bracket has a fairly crude throttle stop adjuster on the other end of the "C" which i wasnt keen to use as it lines up with the nipple on the end of the throttle cable which IMO would cause premature failure of the cable, sorry i am digressing.. this "C" bracket has slotted holes to allow some adjustment to the pedal height. Admittedly not much tho, the alternative is the Leven adjustable pedals.
unless the "C" plate bolts are loose, i would be more inclined to think the cable has stretched and you will need to take up the slack at the engine end. The cable is clamped the the butterfly armature in a similar manner to old fashioned push bike brakes, so it is a basic procedure to adjust (just damn awkward to get to as it is tucked up very close to the bulkhead.
The throttle pedal arm pivot is fixed, but the cable sleeve is clipped into a "C" shaped bracket located at the upper most point of the pedal armature. This bracket has a fairly crude throttle stop adjuster on the other end of the "C" which i wasnt keen to use as it lines up with the nipple on the end of the throttle cable which IMO would cause premature failure of the cable, sorry i am digressing.. this "C" bracket has slotted holes to allow some adjustment to the pedal height. Admittedly not much tho, the alternative is the Leven adjustable pedals.
unless the "C" plate bolts are loose, i would be more inclined to think the cable has stretched and you will need to take up the slack at the engine end. The cable is clamped the the butterfly armature in a similar manner to old fashioned push bike brakes, so it is a basic procedure to adjust (just damn awkward to get to as it is tucked up very close to the bulkhead.
GreenV8S said:
It's adjustable at the engine end, but be carefull not to adjust it too high or you will kink the cable inner at the pedal, which will eventually make the cable fail.
Is this adjustment the small set screw in a short arc slot? If so I've been able to take up maybe a third of the slack. There's half the slot left but the rest of the lever stops against the bracket preventing me from using it. How are the throttle stops and the butterfly adjusted? My thinking is if these can be moved around the throttle shaft a little then I can use the rest of the available adjustment.
I've only had the car since last April/May so I'm still finding my way around. Necessity and all that led me to discover that the bonnet comes off its stays quite simply. Tell me it goes back the same way.
Thanks for your help so far chaps!
I suspect you're going about this all wrong. You should find that the cable outer is secured to the throttle assembly by two locking nuts that can be adjusted to lengthen/shorten the cable - these are at the back of the plenum and may be hard to see. You may also find that the pedal itself is adjustable. Do not attempt to adjust the throttle stop on the throttle spindle, or you will screw (sorry) up the idle characteristics.
Also bear in mind that what you're doing is adjusting the pedal height. I think you'll find that there is no droop stop on the pedal so you will never eliminate all the slack.
Normally the throttle and brake pedals should be at roughly the same height so if your throttle pedal is significantly lower than the brake it may have been adjusted in the past for some reason.
Also bear in mind that what you're doing is adjusting the pedal height. I think you'll find that there is no droop stop on the pedal so you will never eliminate all the slack.
Normally the throttle and brake pedals should be at roughly the same height so if your throttle pedal is significantly lower than the brake it may have been adjusted in the past for some reason.
GreenV8S said:
You should find that the cable outer is secured to the throttle assembly by two locking nuts that can be adjusted to lengthen/shorten the cable - these are at the back of the plenum and may be hard to see.
Those outer cable nuts are at the limit of their adjustment. The bracket itself has no adjustment, just circular holes for the set screws to fasten it to the plenum.
The pedal itself is not adjustable. I have screwed the brake pedal all the way down and it is still proud of the accelerator by a good margin. That was how I got started on this.
There is no "C" plate at the cable end of the pedal as blue-bottle described, just a hole through which the cable passes.
I certainly didn't want to upset any idle or other characteristics, which is why I sought advice, though the throttle stop is just a steel button in the alloy casting and no adjustment is possible.
As I've eliminated about a third of the slack I'll try it in the morning. It would be anti-social to start it up and try a run as it is 1:50am here.
I appreciate your contributions and I shall let you know how things go on the morrow (fingers crossed).
The cable should enter the footwell through the bulkhead and passes through a hole in a metal bracket, at which point the cable sleeve is retained. This bracket is bolted to the side wall of the pedal box with 2no. bolts with treaded holes in the pedal box side wall. The bracket holes are slotted to allow it to be adjusted forwards and back towards the bulkhead which adjusts the pedal height.
This is how my last two cars have been fitted, it may have changed on latter models tho.
When you say you have too much slack in the cable, do you mean that it doesnt open the throttle fully, or that the pedal sits to low in the rest position?
>> Edited by bluebottle on Monday 9th January 15:36
This is how my last two cars have been fitted, it may have changed on latter models tho.
When you say you have too much slack in the cable, do you mean that it doesnt open the throttle fully, or that the pedal sits to low in the rest position?
>> Edited by bluebottle on Monday 9th January 15:36
Griffith Nirvana (was Nerve-ana). Pedal adjustment allows reliable heel & toe. The accelerator pedal is now in the same plane as the brake pedal when brakes are being applied. The little adjustment I was able to acheive at the engine end was sufficient. At the pedal end though, I still can't find an adjustable bracket, blue-bottle. Mine was a December 1992 delivery 430 so earlier than yours.
Steve-v8s, thanks for the warning re fraying, but mine is OK at present.
The outside pedal pivot bracket looks very home-made however and may be part of the problem. To be fettled some other time.
GreenV8S, when I first acquired the car the clutch and brake pedals were much much higher than the accelerator and h&t was out of the question. Even finding the accelerator pedal required a step of faith.
Thanks gentlemen for your contributions. It's just great to know that people are there (or is it here?) who are prepared to take the time to offer suggestions.
So it's off to the chiropractor, then.
GriffOz
Steve-v8s, thanks for the warning re fraying, but mine is OK at present.
The outside pedal pivot bracket looks very home-made however and may be part of the problem. To be fettled some other time.
GreenV8S, when I first acquired the car the clutch and brake pedals were much much higher than the accelerator and h&t was out of the question. Even finding the accelerator pedal required a step of faith.
Thanks gentlemen for your contributions. It's just great to know that people are there (or is it here?) who are prepared to take the time to offer suggestions.
So it's off to the chiropractor, then.
GriffOz
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