Front trunk light
Discussion
It's multimeter time! Check for voltage across the bulb holder while operating the switch. If there isn't any, check for 12V at the input side of the trigger switch. If there's none there, go back to the fuse box and make sure there's 12V on the feed. It's just a case of systematically working out where you're losing the voltage. I haven't got a fuse layout here, is that the only thing supplied from that particular fuse?
I would also double check the earth connection from the bulb holder too.
I would also double check the earth connection from the bulb holder too.
milleman said:
There is a little micro switch fastened under the bonnet latch ( remove the black plastic cover to gain access ), this failed on my 996 which caused the light to stop working, Doddle to fit and quite cheap (£20.00 ish).
Many thanks for this. This is fantastic news, as OPC suggested I needed a new latch £100+...yikes!! They did say that is was common and the switch goes bad on 996 and Boxsters
I'm not that confident dismantling my new, beloved car, but you make it sound straightforward. The part in question is now £40 and I'd like to take the DIY challenge. On a scale of 1-10, how fiddly is it?
appreciate your help
BliarOut said:
It's multimeter time! Check for voltage across the bulb holder while operating the switch. If there isn't any, check for 12V at the input side of the trigger switch. If there's none there, go back to the fuse box and make sure there's 12V on the feed. It's just a case of systematically working out where you're losing the voltage. I haven't got a fuse layout here, is that the only thing supplied from that particular fuse?
I would also double check the earth connection from the bulb holder too.
Good advice. I'll do this failing the microswitch fix detailed above. Many Porker owners are citing the micro switch as the problem, saying it is common fault...thanks again and stay connected.
it's normally not the microswitch which is at fault, it's the mechanical throw on the latch which pushes the microswitch lever arm. You'll need to take the latch apart and just put a dab of grease on the microswith lever arm. I also bent the arm to make a more positive contact with the throw. That's it - it will work fine now, no need to buy a new microswitch. Don't forget to adjust the latch so your bonnet fits flush and make sure the light turns out when you shut the bonnet (push a screw driver into the latch to check...)
Richard.
Richard.
richardb.jones said:
it's normally not the microswitch which is at fault, it's the mechanical throw on the latch which pushes the microswitch lever arm. You'll need to take the latch apart and just put a dab of grease on the microswith lever arm. I also bent the arm to make a more positive contact with the throw. That's it - it will work fine now, no need to buy a new microswitch. Don't forget to adjust the latch so your bonnet fits flush and make sure the light turns out when you shut the bonnet (push a screw driver into the latch to check...)
Richard.
This is great advice. Thanks a million Richard as this should save me money. OPC want £40 for microswitch and £100 for new latch (what they recommended). Did you experience this fault and if so, was it a tough job? I don't want to struggle to refit the latch once it comes off. Is it (the job) worth the effort to get the light working again?
Tiger
Four or five little black clips which you rotate to remove so the the black plastic cover between the headlamps can be removed, then from memory you need to remove a couple of carpet clips to allow the luggage compartment carpet to be pulled back which will let you access the latch. This is held in with a couple of 8 or 10mm bolts, remove this and fit the latch and then refit.
You will need to adjust the height of the bonnet as the latch has been removed, should'nt take more than 15 mins.
You will need to adjust the height of the bonnet as the latch has been removed, should'nt take more than 15 mins.
as per previous post to get to the latch - this is the easy bit. You may want to mark the position of the bolts before removing the latch. Taking apart the latch to get to the microswitch is a touch more 'tricky' but basically the cover pops off by pressing out the tabs holding it in. You may be able to do this without removing the latch from the car - not sure. Once exposed, you should be able to grease it all up. and yes I did this to my car when the light failed.
milleman said:
Four or five little black clips which you rotate to remove so the the black plastic cover between the headlamps can be removed, then from memory you need to remove a couple of carpet clips to allow the luggage compartment carpet to be pulled back which will let you access the latch. This is held in with a couple of 8 or 10mm bolts, remove this and fit the latch and then refit.
You will need to adjust the height of the bonnet as the latch has been removed, should'nt take more than 15 mins.
many thanks for this...it all helps build my confidence when I tackle this job over the weekend.
richardb.jones said:
as per previous post to get to the latch - this is the easy bit. You may want to mark the position of the bolts before removing the latch. Taking apart the latch to get to the microswitch is a touch more 'tricky' but basically the cover pops off by pressing out the tabs holding it in. You may be able to do this without removing the latch from the car - not sure. Once exposed, you should be able to grease it all up. and yes I did this to my car when the light failed.
thanks again Richard - really valuable advice and great for building my confidence when i tackle this job over the weekend. Best wishes
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