111R Window Adjustment

[Wee Loon]

Hi,
Picked up my new 111R at the weekend
I also have an S1 therefore I know the Elise has it's little build quality issues, no surprises there. However, the driver's window does not contact the seal at all along the vertical rear edge, there's about a 1/8" gap all the way, resulting in a very annoying wind roar in the right ear (yes I know it will go away if I remove the hood, or rather it will be amplified x 100000, but winter in Aberdeen isn't conducive to topless driving usually). The passenger door window contacts the seal evenly all the way. So, is adjustment a simple matter, or do I need to wait until the 1000 mile service ?. Adjustment is different on the S1 so no help from the workshop manual I have. It's along trapse back to the dealer so want to avoid this if possible. Any advice would be appreciated

[fish]

Sometimes it isn't the adjustment that is out but the window fouling on a screw head at the front. If you look in the vertical channel at the front of the window you will find a recessed cross head screw. Try to tighten this up as these casn cause the window to stop just short of the top.

Other than that it needs adjusting which is door skin off etc, however I haven't needed to do this so can't help, mine was solved by tightening the screw

[shangani]

It may be the whole door that needs adjusting - the short metal rod that sticks out of the bodywork at the back of the door. ie the bit that the door latches to (the door striker pin) is adjustable by a centimetre or so. It unscrews with a 17 socket iirc. You can move it around - by positioning it a bit further inboard, the door will close tightly against the seal. Tighten it up again and job done. Takes about 2 minutes.

[rixge]

Think there was a posting about this last year, gooby i think said the whole window can be adjusted up or down. People were having problems when fitting a hard top .

[TonyHetherington]

Yeah it could be a few things. I had that hard top problem and there's an adjustable pin which determines the upper most 'up' bit that the window gets to. Take off the door trim, peel back the plastic, and it's a little grub screw bit.

If the door fits ok, then it's not that the door is fitted wrongly.

[gooby]

rixge said:

Think there was a posting about this last year, gooby i think said the whole window can be adjusted up or down. People were having problems when fitting a hard top .

Yep there is an adjustment. I cant remember it exactly but take off the interior door card and put the window up. If I remember correctly there is a nylon adjuster screw. When I put the hard top on, I had the same problem and a quick adjustment sorted it.

Be aware the door card has som hidden fixings that are easy to break.

[wantalotus]

whats the nylon screw head that is visable without removing any covers? its dowm the bottom l/h corner (drivers door)on the inside face.

[tuscan_thunder]

Just a wee hijack to say that if ever fancy a wee NE run give me a shout, there's a few of us up this neck of the woods on here.

[Wee Loon]

Thanks but the issue isn't the extent that the window travels vertically, this is OK. The problem is that the window needs to be moved in towards the door seal. The door can't be adjusted in as it is aligned perfectly with the rear quarter panel and it also shuts nicely. Adjusting the striker will pull the door in past the line of the body and would make it too tight to shut with ease. The location of the window relative to the front seal is fine, just light pressure along the full length of the seal when the door is closed. I reckon the rear channel needs to be pulled in towrds the seal however can't see how to do it. Had the door liner off (to lubricate the push button as this was hellish tight, so much for PDI!) and can only see one attachment for the channel at the bottom. This can be turned without removing the trim panel, it's in the form of a slot headed screw covered by a large washer retained by two screws. I made the mistake of taking out the screws and the whole channel moved so I guess you are only supposed to turn the slotted screw to pull or push the channel. I gave up as I didn't want to do anyhting to put the window completely out of alignment. As an aside, when picking the car up, the drivers window wasn't raising fully so they had to adjust it before I left. I didn't see what they did but they may have moved it too far to free it off thus causing this clearance I have at the rear.

[Wee Loon]

Forgot to mention that you don't need to remove the door liner to get to the push button (dumb ass!!!). Just remove the reflector from the rear of the door then remove the large washer to gain access. Makes lubeing the lock a piece of cake, should have thought about this before pulling it to bits. Must admit I'm annoyed about these niggles, never had anyhting like this with the Mk1 and it's an early one too so should theoretically be more problematic, ah well!!!