Chassis Protection
Discussion
Currently cleaning all the chassis down but what is the best way to protect in the long term?
i have used a paint scrapper to remove the flacky stuff, wire brush to remove the rest then a wire brush attachment on an electric drill to really remove all the stubbon stuff then i was going to give it a light coat of hammerite paint leaving the tin in warm water to thin it down for easier application and finally several coats of heated waxoyl topping up every 6 or 12 months.
i have used a paint scrapper to remove the flacky stuff, wire brush to remove the rest then a wire brush attachment on an electric drill to really remove all the stubbon stuff then i was going to give it a light coat of hammerite paint leaving the tin in warm water to thin it down for easier application and finally several coats of heated waxoyl topping up every 6 or 12 months.
If using hammerite, would propose to use a primer first (after following the instructions on the tin before applying it. At least that is what I do, with several coats of the coloured stuff. Did this on my outriggers, and after one year of abuse still looks like the day I did put it on.
Others probably will propose POR-stuff. Don't know this, but it seems to have a 'following' that believe in it as being superior to hammerite.
Rob
Others probably will propose POR-stuff. Don't know this, but it seems to have a 'following' that believe in it as being superior to hammerite.
Rob
adam quantrill said:
Fill the inside with oil. That's where the bad rust is - inside the tubes where you can't see it.
and that's about the limit for oil. These cars deserve better than Hammerite and Wildfire has saved me a lot of typing:
Wildfire said:
As winter is approaching, I decided to go for the chassis prep option of painting, scraping and proofing. I had earlier put one coat of waxoyl on the car just as a preventative measure. <br/> <br/>The question was what to use: Hammerite, POR 15, Waxoyl, underseal??? <br/> <br/>After talking to Tim at ACT hementioned that he was considering launching a chassis prep kit for those of us who like to get down and dirty and do the job ourselves. He graciously allowed me to test the components that may comprise the kit, if launched. <br/> <br/>The main ingredients are the paint and the proofer. The paint is a two pack epoxy coating (mine was coloured white/grey) and Tectyl 506 rust proofer. <br/> <br/>The main job at had was to get rid of the previous waxoyl and dirt. For this I used a paint brush, a gallon of white spirt, and around 16 hours of my evenings and weekends. Add another 8 or so to scrape down the chassis (luckily I have new wishbones and the chassis was in good conddition with only a little surface rust) and I was ready to go. <br/> <br/>The epoxy come in two tubs the paint part and an activator. Without the activator the other part will not dry. You mix it in approximately 3:1 ratio and you're off. It is not as sticky as other one pack paints and you have to apply it sparingly, and as I was doing this on my back it went over me. It goes on easily and leave a good finish. The temperature was around 16 degrees when I was painting and the epoxy was still easy to apply after around an hour. Although after half and hour it had started going a bit jelly like. I found that doing the front of the car, then the back was the easiest way. <br/> <br/>The epoxy completes it's cure cycle after 3-4 days after which it is rock solid! I had spilt some on the sidewall of my tyre as it was under the car, and it took quite a bit of effort to get it off. The epoxy also leaves a smooth finish to the chassis, covering up surface rust marks, and adhereing to the non powder coated surface well. As said before my epoxy was a grey/white colour. The best part of the epoxy system is that where you have applied the paint thicker, or you have a few drips it is not like paint where the centre is softer, the thicker parts are just as hard as the thinner parts, the drips being very solid! I tested this by banging the coating with a small hammer and nothing. <br/> <br/>After the epoxy there is the proofer. Most use waxoyl and I have for many years, but after the last application of it on the Griff I was less than enthused. The waxoyl all round tmy engine bay and exhaust had completely melted off leaving the chassis dry. As most will know waxoyl needs to be heated to make it liquid and applicable via a spray system. The down side to this is tha TVRs produce a lot of heat and I'm sure that I am not the only owner to be greeted by the smell of waxoyl on a hot day, as it melts off. <br/> <br/>The Tectyl is a produst by Valvoline and is labled as: <br/> <br/> Valvoline's Website said:<br/> <br/>Not totally sure about this I decided to test if temperature made any difference to it, by soaking it in a bucket of hot-boiling water for a while. Not difference. So there was no chance of it melting off at all. To apply it you can use a a brush or a spray system. I used the latter as I am lucky enough to have a compressor and gun, but I am sure it will work well enough through a pressure gun system, such as the one sold for waxoyl. <br/> <br/>The smell is certainly nicer than waxoyl, but as with all solvent based product wearing a mask is reccomended. <br/> <br/>It goes on very easily and combined with the light colouring of the epoxy it is very easy to see where you have missed or been sparce. Needless to say my out riggers are now a very dark amber colour. Curing time is somewhat longer than waxoyl as it is not temperature dependent and does not cure as soon as it hits cool air. This does mean where you have sprayed on thickly it will take a little longer to dry but it is worth it. <br/> <br/>All in all I have to say top marks to ACT and I hope that they do decide to launch the kit, as it looks to be a very effective way of looking after the chassis.
<br/>"A water-displacing, solvent cutback, wax base, general purpose, corrosion preventive compound suitable for the widest range of application requirements for vehicle rustproofing, protection of machinery and parts in storage. It protects parts in indoor and outdoor storage as well as domestic and international shipments. 506-WD cures to a dark amber coloured, waxy transparent, firm film." <br/> <br/> <br/>Sadly my digital camera has given up the ghost and I am unable to take pics.
<br/>
I lifted the body on my 400 and replaced the outriggers, but i linished the rest of the the nasty flakey bits back down to the metal, i then splodged loads of red oxide primer on, then coated with stone chip primer, as this has a self leveling property, which you can also flat down.Then i sprayed with plasticoat, and in the nooks and crannys i sprayed underseal and waxoil.
Wurth also do a specific spray for inside the tubes, which pushes moisture out and dries like wax. Was about £7 for a large spray tin.
Wurth also do a specific spray for inside the tubes, which pushes moisture out and dries like wax. Was about £7 for a large spray tin.
I don't know if anyone here remembers 'Ziebart' they created a product like waxoil and it was the thing to have in the 70's when underseal was all the rage.
Eventually the company went bust because it's found that when you fill a void (sill) with this wax compound it eventually dries over the years and allows rust.
I believe if you must protect the inside tubes then Adams idea of oil is the only way to go. In all my talks with restorers of old cars - I've often asked what paint they would recommend for the chassis - all have recommended none : only oil.
If it's to be used in a high abrasion area (wheel arch) then mix with underseal).
Eventually the company went bust because it's found that when you fill a void (sill) with this wax compound it eventually dries over the years and allows rust.
I believe if you must protect the inside tubes then Adams idea of oil is the only way to go. In all my talks with restorers of old cars - I've often asked what paint they would recommend for the chassis - all have recommended none : only oil.
If it's to be used in a high abrasion area (wheel arch) then mix with underseal).
bilton_d said:
Has anyone gone to the extent of drilling the chassis say every 18 inches or so and filling it woth waxoyl?
You dont have to, just one hole, about 8mm, at the end of each tube, insert a suitably sized plastic tube all the way to the end, attach a spray your favourite anti-rust product, Waxoyl, Dinitrol, engine oil, Shultz, and draw the tube out as you spray...
The practicalities aren't quite as simple as that and you'll need to master your technique, but it's a lot better than turning your chassis to Swiss cheese every 18in. If memory serves, Dinitrol do such a kit, try looking around the Frost website.
Regards
Iain
I wouldn't recomment drilling too many holes either.
A lot of the tubes are connected up - i.e. open inside, for example the two big rails that go along the bottom connect to the rear pipes that go to the outriggers. If moisure gets in here then it can travel along the chassis.
However this can be used to your advantage - I think a single hole in this pipe (i.e. the outrigger pipe just in front of the rear wheel) will allow old oil (my favourite is old diff oil) to be squirted in and travel the length of the chassis. Then you can weld up the hole after filling. This piece of the chassis is easy to inspect and doesn't create a huge problem if it cracks (which it does anyway, near the diff) so is fairly safe to drill.
>> Edited by adam quantrill on Friday 27th January 10:43
A lot of the tubes are connected up - i.e. open inside, for example the two big rails that go along the bottom connect to the rear pipes that go to the outriggers. If moisure gets in here then it can travel along the chassis.
However this can be used to your advantage - I think a single hole in this pipe (i.e. the outrigger pipe just in front of the rear wheel) will allow old oil (my favourite is old diff oil) to be squirted in and travel the length of the chassis. Then you can weld up the hole after filling. This piece of the chassis is easy to inspect and doesn't create a huge problem if it cracks (which it does anyway, near the diff) so is fairly safe to drill.
>> Edited by adam quantrill on Friday 27th January 10:43
brummiewedge said:
The rust goes from outside in anyway, my chassis was proof of this. It went rotten where the crap sits, the body pads, behind the diff, etc. As soon as you were 6-8 inches in the internal metal was as new, but if it makes you feel good then what the hell!
You've never owned an SD1 then
Regards
Iain
chassis 33 said:
The rust goes from outside in anyway, my chassis was proof of this. It went rotten where the crap sits, the body pads, behind the diff, etc. As soon as you were 6-8 inches in the internal metal was as new, but if it makes you feel good then what the hell!
You've never owned an SD1 then
Regards
Iain
That is why I looked forward to owning a TVR as well: polyesther bodyshell (didn't know about potential chassis problems yet). Because it took me a lot of hours to: waxoil the inside of my SD1 chassis, zinc spray about everything else except the coloured parts of the bodyshell.... SD1 is living outside for about 5 years now without any problems! Surface rust only around the rear window (seems whatever you do to it is not good enough). Ok, not using it so no need for MOT yet, but this year will probably put it back on the road just for the fun of it. As it is built in 1981, probably will need to replace all cooling and fuel hoses before I dare to drive it over 5 miles from home.
Rob
I have heard from other classic car owners as well as TVR gurus that regular i.e. annual, misting with 50/50 waxoil/white spirit keeps it in good nick (once you have done any prep or repairs). If you want a good chassis, give it tlc or dont drive in the wet!
Mind you I have not heard of oiling the inside? I thought they were sealed tubes?
Mind you I have not heard of oiling the inside? I thought they were sealed tubes?
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