Valley Gasket Replacement - advice please
Discussion
Hello
I need to replace my valley gasket and want to do it myself. I spoke briefly with Dom at TVR Power the other day and he said it shouldn't pose any problems. I don't really want to bother him again, although he said I could, because I'm guessing he's a very busy bod - took me a while to get hold of him and, when I did, it sounded like he was in the middle of a war zone. (I'm guessing it was a busy workshop I could hear but it could well have been the Sagaris cubs fighting over scraps of meat.)
Anyway, I've just been out in the garage looking over the car, working out what I'm gonna need to do when I get round to it - next weekend hopefully - and I've got the following questions. I'm hoping one of you guys can give me some advice...
1) My main concern is over the fuel lines and injector rails. Is it safe to just unclamp the fuel lines and remove the inlet manifold with the rails still attached? Am I right in thinking that the pipes I've highlighted in the image below are connected to the carbon canister? Is it safe to just unclamp those, too? (Obviously, I'm not going to be smoking while I do this. Sweating and most likely swearing profusely, though.)
2) Once I've removed all the pipework and cables and I've taken the lid off the plenum, is there enough room to get a socket on an extension down to each the bolts securing the manifold? Use sockets or open-ended spanners?
3) Is the distributor going to get in the way when I want to get at the bold at the front of the valley? (Please God, tell me it won't - I don't want to have to remove it...
)
If you can answer any of my questions or offer any other advice, that'd be super, thanks. Expect some piccies and a write-up later...
Many thanks
I need to replace my valley gasket and want to do it myself. I spoke briefly with Dom at TVR Power the other day and he said it shouldn't pose any problems. I don't really want to bother him again, although he said I could, because I'm guessing he's a very busy bod - took me a while to get hold of him and, when I did, it sounded like he was in the middle of a war zone. (I'm guessing it was a busy workshop I could hear but it could well have been the Sagaris cubs fighting over scraps of meat.)
Anyway, I've just been out in the garage looking over the car, working out what I'm gonna need to do when I get round to it - next weekend hopefully - and I've got the following questions. I'm hoping one of you guys can give me some advice...
1) My main concern is over the fuel lines and injector rails. Is it safe to just unclamp the fuel lines and remove the inlet manifold with the rails still attached? Am I right in thinking that the pipes I've highlighted in the image below are connected to the carbon canister? Is it safe to just unclamp those, too? (Obviously, I'm not going to be smoking while I do this. Sweating and most likely swearing profusely, though.)
2) Once I've removed all the pipework and cables and I've taken the lid off the plenum, is there enough room to get a socket on an extension down to each the bolts securing the manifold? Use sockets or open-ended spanners?
3) Is the distributor going to get in the way when I want to get at the bold at the front of the valley? (Please God, tell me it won't - I don't want to have to remove it...
) If you can answer any of my questions or offer any other advice, that'd be super, thanks. Expect some piccies and a write-up later...
Many thanks
codeChimp said:I honestly can't offer any real advice regarding the fitting,but i know i would use a metal,rather than composite valley gasket,judging by what i've read on here in the past.With any luck,someone like Pete Humphries(green V8s)will come on here later,and help you properly
If you can answer any of my questions or offer any other advice, that'd be super, thanks. Expect some piccies and a write-up later...
Many thanks
It isn't as hard as it seems to be. The dizzy should be fine where it is. Don't forget about it's vacuam pipe which connects to the plenum. On some rv8's you can lift the rail and injectors away from the engine and rest it on a blanket on the wing. This saves disconnecting it. Obviously you have to remove the plenum lid first and inlet pipework. The manifold is easy to unbolt using sockets, disconnect the water works at front and rear, drain some of it first . Tap it and lift it away. Remove the valley front & rear gaskets clean up and then remove the valley gasket.
When refitting smear silicone in the 4 corners where the block and rubber gaskets meat the heads. Clean off the inlet manifold and refit that torquing from the centre outwards in a diagonal cross pattern. Be methodical and write anything down of importance during disassembly. When fitting the injectors into the manifold smaer the 'O' rings with vaseline and press them in firmly. You don't want to tear the 'O' ring.
Boosted.
. Tap it and lift it away. Remove the valley front & rear gaskets clean up and then remove the valley gasket. When refitting smear silicone in the 4 corners where the block and rubber gaskets meat the heads. Clean off the inlet manifold and refit that torquing from the centre outwards in a diagonal cross pattern. Be methodical and write anything down of importance during disassembly. When fitting the injectors into the manifold smaer the 'O' rings with vaseline and press them in firmly. You don't want to tear the 'O' ring.
Boosted.
I don't really have a clue when it comes to mechanics, but seem to muddle through. I changed mine in about 3 hours and it posed no problem. I removed the fuel rail from the inlet manifold, but I guess you could leave it in if you can get to the bolts. There are some good tips if you search, but I would torque the inlet manifold bolts - can't remember what amount but you can search. You also need to use a small amount of sealant on the four corners of the gasket, and again a small amount to seal the plenum to trumpets and trumpets to inlet etc. Don't overtighten anything as it's alloy.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Dan, I can't help with first hand advice as I've not changed one. However I have the Range Rover workshop manual on cd rom. This covers all the RV8 engines & so may be of help. Let me know if you want me to send you a copy.
On a different subject. My Chim is Starmist Chrimson too, but with a black roof. I think the red on yours looks much better. Did you change it or was it original? I'd also be interested in knowing your interior color. I'm planning a major tart up this year & I'm looking for ideas.
Pete
On a different subject. My Chim is Starmist Chrimson too, but with a black roof. I think the red on yours looks much better. Did you change it or was it original? I'd also be interested in knowing your interior color. I'm planning a major tart up this year & I'm looking for ideas.
Pete
poorpeet said:
Dan, I can't help with first hand advice as I've not changed one. However I have the Range Rover workshop manual on cd rom. This covers all the RV8 engines & so may be of help. Let me know if you want me to send you a copy.
On a different subject. My Chim is Starmist Chrimson too, but with a black roof. I think the red on yours looks much better. Did you change it or was it original? I'd also be interested in knowing your interior color. I'm planning a major tart up this year & I'm looking for ideas.
Pete
Hello Pete
Nope, that's how the roof came. I'm sure you'd be able to have your roof material completely replaced somewhere but I can't imagine it'd be cheap. I dunno where you are but there's a place in Bristol that's supposed to be very good - they supply Aston or something. I could dig-out their name if you're interested. The red is quite nice but I'm sure black ain't bad either. I guess, if you could find a large enough bath, you could always re-colour it...Couple of bottles of bleach and a bucket of red Just-For-Men should do the trick!
The interior is magnolia, I think: doe hide, I'm told. I have red carpets, too, so it looks pret-ty sweet! I like light-coloured interiors best. I'll put a photo up here if I can find one...
I think the main points have been covered.
It's much quicker to strip it completely from the top down rather than to struggle to remove several bits in one lump.
The fuel rail will hold pressure for quite a long time. If the engine has run recently them either be prepared for a few CC of petrol to come out at very high pressure when you release the hose, or disable the fuel pump and crank the engine over for a couple of seconds to release the pressure.
Label everything you disconnect and keep a sketch of what goes where. There aren't very many ways for this to go wrong so you probably won't need to refer to it, but if worst comes to worst this could save you hours, also acts as a checklist to ensure that you have reconnected everything that you disconnected.
Be absolutely paranoid about dropping tools, bolts, washers etc into the exposed intake system as you work. Mask all openings as soon as possible, and keep tools and parts well away from the engine. If you drop something in there and notice it, you will waste hours getting it back out. And if you don't notice it you can do severe damage to the engine.
Be carefull and methodical and you should have no trouble.
It's much quicker to strip it completely from the top down rather than to struggle to remove several bits in one lump.
The fuel rail will hold pressure for quite a long time. If the engine has run recently them either be prepared for a few CC of petrol to come out at very high pressure when you release the hose, or disable the fuel pump and crank the engine over for a couple of seconds to release the pressure.
Label everything you disconnect and keep a sketch of what goes where. There aren't very many ways for this to go wrong so you probably won't need to refer to it, but if worst comes to worst this could save you hours, also acts as a checklist to ensure that you have reconnected everything that you disconnected.
Be absolutely paranoid about dropping tools, bolts, washers etc into the exposed intake system as you work. Mask all openings as soon as possible, and keep tools and parts well away from the engine. If you drop something in there and notice it, you will waste hours getting it back out. And if you don't notice it you can do severe damage to the engine.
Be carefull and methodical and you should have no trouble.
Hi codechimp,
although I had a slightly different problem I still had to change the valley gasket and had some very good advice, especially from Pete (greenv8s).
maybe some of the pictures/advice from my post may help....
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=227855&f=8&h=0
I would say to disconnect the fuel pipes but not the fuel rail, it was a pain is the ass to pull mine off, there are little rubber 'O' rings that are better left where they are.
The inlet manifold may be a pain in the ass too, mine felt like it was welded to the block. Only some 'gentle persuasion' from a hammer and screwdriver over a course of a few hours broke it free. I hope yours 'pops' off but just be aware it may take some work.
I had to bend the black metal mesh under the windscreen to remove the plenum, just a warning. you may need to remove the stepper motor housing, although I did get away with it.
Other than that it is as Pete says, work your way down, and mask off the intakes as you go.
hope it goes well.....
Dean
although I had a slightly different problem I still had to change the valley gasket and had some very good advice, especially from Pete (greenv8s).
maybe some of the pictures/advice from my post may help....
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=227855&f=8&h=0
I would say to disconnect the fuel pipes but not the fuel rail, it was a pain is the ass to pull mine off, there are little rubber 'O' rings that are better left where they are.
The inlet manifold may be a pain in the ass too, mine felt like it was welded to the block. Only some 'gentle persuasion' from a hammer and screwdriver over a course of a few hours broke it free. I hope yours 'pops' off but just be aware it may take some work.
I had to bend the black metal mesh under the windscreen to remove the plenum, just a warning. you may need to remove the stepper motor housing, although I did get away with it.
Other than that it is as Pete says, work your way down, and mask off the intakes as you go.
hope it goes well.....
Dean
The fuel pipes may be a bit of a bugger to get off the rails though, on mine they were on for an unfeasibly long length (about 3 inches), all of which was corroded and stuck fast. Lots of poking with thin screwdrivers and spraying up the inside with WD40 eventually got them free, but not without loss of skin.
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