What a difference!
Discussion
Just had the new type Powerflex bushes fitted to the front of the car,that i got from www.track-car-solutions.co.uk ,and i have to say i'm really impressed,a much more positive feel from the front end,and a more compliant and quieter ride too.I was all the more impressed,as my original bushes had only done 11k miles,so i didn't think there would be much to gain,but was very wrong there!In reality the upper wishbone bushes were well on their way out,one in particular was completely gone,and mostly due to heat soak probably.The powerflex kits are very well thought out and even include heat sheilding for the upper bushes near the manifold.To anyone contemplating bush replacement out of necesity,or just as an improvement upgrade,i really can recommend these
>> Edited by mongoose on Tuesday 31st January 17:26
>> Edited by mongoose on Tuesday 31st January 17:26
Hi Mongoose, oddly I was just about to post, but you beat me to it. I have just got a front bush set, not fitted yet. They seem well engineered, although I am having a problem with the sleeves which Powerflex are fixing. Has anyone tried the Superflex type (look like a cotton reel with a simple sleeve through the middle)? They apparently wear out quite quickly, but are cheaper than Powerflex.
Anyone else done any big miles on Powerflex? How long do they last?
My old (original)bushes had done some wierd things, they had sheared and allowed the wishbones to shuffle forward (or backwards), they allowed the camber to reduce, making the steering very unstable.
Cheers
Nic
Anyone else done any big miles on Powerflex? How long do they last?
My old (original)bushes had done some wierd things, they had sheared and allowed the wishbones to shuffle forward (or backwards), they allowed the camber to reduce, making the steering very unstable.
Cheers
Nic
mongoose said:
Have you both fitted Steve Heath's drop links as well? Rich...
You got some then Mike? Front and Rear?
,just the fronts though.Should be being fitted as i speakPicked the car up earlier,after having the drop links fitted.I must say that i'm very impressed with these also,the turn in is now much sharper,even with the slighly softer springs and damping i've gone to recently,the turn is is still the best i've had,which was just what i was looking for
Glad you like the improvements. The drop links really do transform the car's handling without the need for other more expensive suspension mods. BTW it is not mandatory to wait until the Growl in August to get them. 
www.tvrextras.co.uk if anyone else wants them.
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 2nd February 09:54
www.tvrextras.co.uk if anyone else wants them.
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 2nd February 09:54
Fitted Steve's front and rear drop links on my 96 500 recently.
The car is much better behaved over bumps and uneven road surfaces.
I am considering fitting poly bushes and maybe changing the coilovers. I would like to further improve the ride and drive ability
on changing road surfaces. Any suggestions ?
The car is much better behaved over bumps and uneven road surfaces.
I am considering fitting poly bushes and maybe changing the coilovers. I would like to further improve the ride and drive ability
on changing road surfaces. Any suggestions ? VSP90 said:Give Joo a call at Track car solutions,i've put a link on the first post.He has a great deal on the protechs,that i have(and really recommend)and the new type superflex polybushes.He'll answer any questions you have(very experienced and freindly guy)
Fitted Steve's front and rear drop links on my 96 500 recently.
The car is much better behaved over bumps and uneven road surfaces.
I am considering fitting poly bushes and maybe changing the coilovers. I would like to further improve the ride and drive ability
Can someone please explain why fitting these drop links makes such a difference?? the front links are ball jointed top and bottom as standard replacing these with rose joints will surely make no difference at all??? you are not changing the compliance in the system???
I kind of have the same questions on the rear however I know the upper link is rubber mounted to the suspension arm so yes in this case you are removing compliance (secondary load rate curve). but surely the total travel or displacement for any given wheel input will only be say 3mm per side different or probably half second (probably a lot less) out of phase...
I was gonna say I'm not questioning people experiences behind the wheel with them fitted. but I guess that's exactly what I am doing.. can someone explain the science cos I'm having difficulty with this one!!
I kind of have the same questions on the rear however I know the upper link is rubber mounted to the suspension arm so yes in this case you are removing compliance (secondary load rate curve). but surely the total travel or displacement for any given wheel input will only be say 3mm per side different or probably half second (probably a lot less) out of phase...
I was gonna say I'm not questioning people experiences behind the wheel with them fitted. but I guess that's exactly what I am doing.. can someone explain the science cos I'm having difficulty with this one!!
www.shpub.co.uk/tvrextras/droplinkfaq.html
The standard droplinks are not real ball joints. They are studs embedded in rubber. What happens is that as the car starts to roll and the ARB start to work, the force they would normally impart to the wishbone is taken up by that rubber flexing. It isn't until the stud hits the drop link body that the ARBs start to work. By this time, the car is already rolling and the ARB force that is applied is too small and too little. In some cases in can come in in a big dollop and the car suddenly reacts by lurching. It is one of the reasons why the cars can suffer so much on bouncy roads.
With the SHENG droplinks, there is no rubber to flex. As soon as the roll starts, the ARB force is immediately applied to counteract the roll so the ARB is actually doing its job as opposed to bending the rubber and effectively doing nothing.
If you want an analogy it is like trying to pull a weight along the ground with a bit of bungee. It will only start to move the weight when it is stretched and then it apply a lot of force and the weight will be difficult to stop or control. With a solid link there is complete control.
The standard droplinks are not real ball joints. They are studs embedded in rubber. What happens is that as the car starts to roll and the ARB start to work, the force they would normally impart to the wishbone is taken up by that rubber flexing. It isn't until the stud hits the drop link body that the ARBs start to work. By this time, the car is already rolling and the ARB force that is applied is too small and too little. In some cases in can come in in a big dollop and the car suddenly reacts by lurching. It is one of the reasons why the cars can suffer so much on bouncy roads.
With the SHENG droplinks, there is no rubber to flex. As soon as the roll starts, the ARB force is immediately applied to counteract the roll so the ARB is actually doing its job as opposed to bending the rubber and effectively doing nothing.
If you want an analogy it is like trying to pull a weight along the ground with a bit of bungee. It will only start to move the weight when it is stretched and then it apply a lot of force and the weight will be difficult to stop or control. With a solid link there is complete control.
I also forgot to add that the articulation on the joints is pretty bad, particularly on the rear which is why the mounting plate cracks and twists off. Basically those links are pretty awful.
PS the ARB movement is a lot more than 3mm... Put a Griff on its door handles and the body roll can mean the difference of several inches as one side is compressed and the other in droop. The car will stay like that for some time as long as the car is cornering. The ARB should stop this but can only do it if the force it wants to apply is transmitted to the wishbones. The original rubber droplinks do a lousy job when asked to do this. So the arb does very little and the car rolls.
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 2nd February 13:47
PS the ARB movement is a lot more than 3mm... Put a Griff on its door handles and the body roll can mean the difference of several inches as one side is compressed and the other in droop. The car will stay like that for some time as long as the car is cornering. The ARB should stop this but can only do it if the force it wants to apply is transmitted to the wishbones. The original rubber droplinks do a lousy job when asked to do this. So the arb does very little and the car rolls.
>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 2nd February 13:47
Steve, all
I had the fronts and rears fitted recently and it sharpens up the cornering no end. On the (cough cough) rare occasions where one can occasionally get out of shape on a corner I have found it reacts suberbly when pulling it back into line.
Well done Steve
NB I am a numpty when it comes to mechanicals all I know is that it handles better!
I had the fronts and rears fitted recently and it sharpens up the cornering no end. On the (cough cough) rare occasions where one can occasionally get out of shape on a corner I have found it reacts suberbly when pulling it back into line.
Well done Steve
NB I am a numpty when it comes to mechanicals all I know is that it handles better!
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