POR 15 ... Excellent !!
POR 15 ... Excellent !!
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Discussion

The Moosehunter

Original Poster:

1,165 posts

254 months

Wednesday 1st February 2006
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Never heard of this stuff before but just checked out the coat I applied to my N/S wishbones last night...the fairies have been and replaced it with a near perfect finish items

Can't believe how well it's settled down, it's almost as if someone has plastic coated it

Now here's to hoping it stay's on as well as it looks (and my 2nd coat doesn't bugger it up)

I've got some "Chassis Black" aswell. Is it necessary to put this over the 2 coates of POR15 or am I going for overkill ?

Cheers for the tip off chaps ( I love this forum )

Andy


>> Edited by The Moosehunter on Wednesday 1st February 11:34

Esprit

6,373 posts

312 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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It's BRILLIANT stuff.... it'll stick better than just about anything else out there. I painted the floorpans of my TR7 a couple years back with it, a week later I still had paint on my hands..... I had to go into hospital to have my tonsils out and they put onmy admissions sheet "paint on hands" so they didn't think I had some funky disease I was so impressed I did the rocker cover of the TR in it and it came up brilliant. It's about the best paint you cn get for chassis jobs IMHO.

barreti

6,689 posts

266 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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I just phoned Frosts to order some of this paint for the new suspension arms I ordered yesterday. I was told the paint is really for bare metal and probably no use painting over already painted parts, they would have to be stripped back to bare metal then prepped using the bare metal primer then painted using POR15. Is this right? I'm sure someone on here has painted new bits with it - maggit?

Esprit

6,373 posts

312 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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Think of POR 15 as a metal treatment and paint in one.... it ocmes as a kit with a rust treater, a metal cleaner and a top coat..... the two base tratments really key the metal for the topcoat. If you're painting it over existing pait, the POR-15 will be tough, but it'll only adhere as good as the base coat has.... it probably won't hurt to do it over paint, but the best solution would be to paint bare metal.

The Moosehunter

Original Poster:

1,165 posts

254 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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I painted it direct on to my stripped wishbones, no primer, as it said that was OK on the instructions.

It covered superbly and the 2nd coat has only enhanced it further.

Whether it lasts I guess time will tell, but I would be pretty confident that it will.

I'm gonna leave the top coat off for now, as it says you only need to topcoat if it's exposed to UV. Well unless I roll it over, It should be OK


victormeldrew

8,293 posts

306 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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There is every chance, if you paint it over a previously painted surface, that the whole lot will peel off in one lump. It is designed to be painted onto bare metal - in fact rusty metal. Paint Over Rust. If you rough up the surface you will probably be OK. I'd always try to wrap right around the object being paintedso the POR can adhere to itself and form a skin around the object, even if it doesn't adhere perfectly to the surface. Like plastic coating? You bet, it's a plastic. There is actually a thicker version which is used as a filler.

It will stick like nothing you have ever encountered to the right surface. It will fall off otherwise.

I've never actually used Chassic Black on top, but then I've always overpainted with Waxoyl underseal. It's main purpose is to provide a non-UV reactive coating. POR will fade if exposed to UV. If you are using it under the car there is little or no point in a Chassis Black top coat.

mrmaggit

10,146 posts

277 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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barreti said:
I just phoned Frosts to order some of this paint for the new suspension arms I ordered yesterday. I was told the paint is really for bare metal and probably no use painting over already painted parts, they would have to be stripped back to bare metal then prepped using the bare metal primer then painted using POR15. Is this right? I'm sure someone on here has painted new bits with it - maggit?


Yes, I had Wols' wishbones blasted and then treated with POR15, Joolz did it, and replaced the bushes at the same time. Not cheap, but I viewed it as a "fit and forget" job. It's now done two winters (almost), and you can't tell. Thoroughly recommended.

In years to come, when he gets his body off renovation (!), the chassis will be POR15 treated.

puffsorted2

2,442 posts

254 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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When POR15 was first discussed about 18 months ago I tried a little experiment. I painted my rusty old patio umbrella base in POR15 and then a coat for green Hammerite on top. Now its been out for 2 winters now (its not covered up, just open to the elements) and there is still no sign of any rust coming through so i am pretty much sold on the stuff.

Puff

victormeldrew

8,293 posts

306 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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puffsorted2 said:
When POR15 was first discussed about 18 months ago I tried a little experiment. I painted my rusty old patio umbrella base in POR15 and then a coat for green Hammerite on top. Now its been out for 2 winters now (its not covered up, just open to the elements) and there is still no sign of any rust coming through so i am pretty much sold on the stuff.

Puff
I like that, a bit of experimentation!

I do have to pull you up about the "about 18 months ago" though puff, I first used the stuff about five years ago now and have been banging on about it ever since. I have not had a single spot of rust come through anywhere in those five years, and I took most of the chassis back to bare metal (at least where I could get at with the body still on), etched with Metal Ready, the painted with ONE liberal coat of silver POR-15 followed by a slathering of Waxoyl Underseal.

sanchas

14 posts

258 months

Friday 3rd February 2006
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"a Slathering" what an excellant expression!.