radiator removal

radiator removal

Author
Discussion

gjm

Original Poster:

78 posts

269 months

Sunday 15th December 2002
quotequote all
i have a small leak in the radiator and was looking at removing the radiator and taking it to a specailist to get it fixed. i have had a quick peak under the bonnet and it seems to be held in place with 4 bolts or so. is this a reasonably easy job to do? 1 hour, 2hours? i cannot find any details of how to do it step by step in the bible or on this website. anyone done it? is it straightforward or are there lots of hidden problems?

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Sunday 15th December 2002
quotequote all
It's in the new edition and it is something that while not difficult will probably take a couple of hours as a lot of things have to come out such as fans and pipework and there is a great risk of bodywork damage as the fitting is tight. Main problems are the fans, expanion tanks, washer boittles etc that just get in the way and need to come out. The rad fixing is simple but removing it is tricky as there is not much space.

The rad itself is no lightweight and a second pair of hands is useful.

Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk

>> Edited by shpub on Sunday 15th December 19:40

veg

497 posts

284 months

Sunday 15th December 2002
quotequote all
Two hour job and relatively easy.
As Steve said there is not much room so be careful and take off as much as you can, maybe even the cooling fans if you've got flexible fingers.
The rad itself is held on by 2 bolts half way up on either side but near the offside bolt, behind a cover, is the carbon cannister for the fuel tank. If this gets wet it will need to be replaced so plan on it anyway!
One last thing re-fill the system Very Very slowly to eliminate any air locks.

Ballistic Banana

14,698 posts

268 months

Sunday 15th December 2002
quotequote all
Dont know what it is like with a 92 Griff.Do they have one Fan.
My 96 one i had to take the alarm out, the washer bottle and the expansion tank.
Then Both the fans come of by undoing to bolts at the top and bottom of the them.
Then undone the two nuts as said before halfway down eeach side of rad.
Then i lifted the bottom out first as there is to metal rods(at the bottom corners of rad) that go into holes in the body work.Then you have to lift that end up and out first then slide the rest out.BE WARNED it is very tight as the shape of the gap it comes out is curved.I put sheets aroud the edges of this gap to try and help NOT scratching the paint work.
I did however scratch the black paint in places in the engine bay, but ias easier to repair.

Best of luck and dont rush it.

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