which lightweight bike to keep fit
Discussion
Decided to upgrade my racing bike this year , so any views on what to go for .
heres a few i found...
trek madone 5.9
www.trekbike.co.uk/2006/?sec=overview&MainCatID=4&SubCatID=29&RangeID=17&ID=203
Bianchi
www.bianchi.it/en/products/productsDetail.aspx?category=rc_corsarange&idmaster=18858
colnago
www.colnagonews.com/cat2005/popup/presidentldv/index.htm
any ideas have a nice bonus to spank
Personally I wouldn't bother with that particular Bianchi; others yes, but why compromise an otherwise bombproof Ti frame with carbon stays apart from to save a few bob. Do Bianchi do a full Ti? If they do that'd be worth considering. You've got the weak points at the bonds plus the integrity of the frame suffers.
Those rims are decent though, use similar on my winter bike.
Any carbon frame has a shelf life if it's used to it's full extent. If you're a glass cranker and only use it now and again it should last a while (and they sure do look purdy) but even so, one rough knock against the weave could render the whole frame u/s. Same goes for novelty carbon cranks. Any others in the Campag range will do the job more robustly.
BTW in my humble opinion Colnago's look classiest when in one colour whether that be monochromatic carbon or simple reds. Just how they should be.
The C50 is nice:
As for the Trek it looks as generic as most other off the peg bikes these days.
Those rims are decent though, use similar on my winter bike.
Any carbon frame has a shelf life if it's used to it's full extent. If you're a glass cranker and only use it now and again it should last a while (and they sure do look purdy) but even so, one rough knock against the weave could render the whole frame u/s. Same goes for novelty carbon cranks. Any others in the Campag range will do the job more robustly.
BTW in my humble opinion Colnago's look classiest when in one colour whether that be monochromatic carbon or simple reds. Just how they should be.
The C50 is nice:
As for the Trek it looks as generic as most other off the peg bikes these days.
Where are the engines? Selmer said:Agreed, don't want that Japanese rubbish on my bikes
Either way you're getting some good kit which will ensure you enjoy(?) most of your rides. Have fun and good luck.
PS> Has to be Campag though
I had one of my Colnago frames re-sprayed in Rosso Corsa last year too. (So sad...)
edit: The Bianchi does look good though.
>> Edited by tomtom on Sunday 12th February 19:54
Moots Compact SL
www.moots.com
Storck Scenario
www.storck-bicycle.de
Omega Alchemy
www.omegacycleworks.com
Look 486
www.lookcycle.com
Or something from Vanilla
www.vanillabicycles.com
A few small details must be addressed, such as:
- what sort of riding do you do?
- your weight?
- your riding fitness?
- what properties do you value in a bike (comfort, stability, quick-handling)?
- budget (including really good wheels if poss - they may be even more important than the frame itself)?
After you've considered these there is the question of your proportions. Unless you're going for a custom build, you need a design of which the right seat-tube height gives you the right top-tube length. You cannot simply allow for big disparities with different stem lengths. Various framemakers use different proportions and angles for what is nominally the same size frame.
- what sort of riding do you do?
- your weight?
- your riding fitness?
- what properties do you value in a bike (comfort, stability, quick-handling)?
- budget (including really good wheels if poss - they may be even more important than the frame itself)?
After you've considered these there is the question of your proportions. Unless you're going for a custom build, you need a design of which the right seat-tube height gives you the right top-tube length. You cannot simply allow for big disparities with different stem lengths. Various framemakers use different proportions and angles for what is nominally the same size frame.
We sell Orbea where I work and they are gorgeous, among the nicest road bikes I have ever seen. As Flemke pointed out, we need to know more to advise you properly. In the meantime, check out: www.orbea.com/. A friend of mine bought one at about £1500, that came with carbon stays and carbon forks. It is almost as light as my bosses full carbon (including cranks, mechs, bb etc) Scott Team. It also looks a damn sight better being a hand made and hand painted frame. Attention to detail is amazing. Let me know if you need any more help.
As an alternative to an all out racing bike you could try something more user friendly. I have been using a Specialized sirrus elite for several months(see profile) More comfier and relaxing on longer rides.
Its quite light, made out of aluminium with a carbon fibre front fork. I use it to commute and find it great for zipping past the usual crowd on their inappropriate mountain bikes.
>> Edited by rolex on Monday 13th February 00:19
Its quite light, made out of aluminium with a carbon fibre front fork. I use it to commute and find it great for zipping past the usual crowd on their inappropriate mountain bikes.
>> Edited by rolex on Monday 13th February 00:19
Thanks for all the info , Have been training for a charity lands end john o groats trip,
no date set just brainstormed with a few mates at work
have some semi profesional riders out here at work one has been talking me into A bianchi , ( he lives in Norway in his 50s ) very pro campagnola ...
interesting argument campognola v shimano
Another mate has a De-rosa hes just completed the Etap de tour
its very difficult to get quality time to train because of overseas work ,so using a gym trainer daily usually 2 hrs a day..
My father who is now 76 was a semi profesional cyclist from manchester ,he nearly bought a bike off the ledgendary Reg Harris.
my current bike was designed by him in 1951 and built with reynolds 531 tubing, it was originaly a fixed gear , (he once rode 100 miles from Manchester not sure of the exact final destination ) but it was with the wind behind him in 4 hours !! impressive for a fixed gear.
As usual the bike was left to go to seed , I inherited it and took it to an old bike shop in bradford , where the bike was completly refurbished at a cost of 1200 pounds in British racing green with my fathers name in gold italics , looks a thousand dollars , tour de france spec shimano 105 headset, light weight wheels 27 gears , but still keeping the period look ....I presented the finished bike to my father .........unfotunatley he can no longer ride due to ill health ,
So I have toured around Dorset and France , on the bike
I guess the longest distance I have ridden would be 120 miles in 1 go
As for fitness
i reached the big 40 this year
weigh in at 87 kilos
am 5'10 ( inside leg 30 )
have plenty of stamina , and am used to hiking in extreme temperatures
looking at a really good quality bike , price does not matter I want one that will last a long time ,
i guess the next step would be to visit a specialist and get my dimensions measured acurately........
thanks
I would say that unless you've got unusually or disproportiantely long/short limbs/back whatever, you won't need a custom made frame. Stuff these days (as with cars) is so much more user friendly and well made than bikes from 15 - 20 years ago; then you had to have a bespoke frame.
There are loads of nice bikes out there; you are limited by time really.
Just find the nicest one that suits you, like others have said, different tubes material makes for slightly differnt ride quality but wheels and tyres do make a huge difference; don't skimp here!!!
Like I said, I would stay away from gimicky composite/Ti/Aluminum frames. Frames are usually designed to work with one particular material, it's the gap in the market (ie. budget) that allows the manaufacturer to put out an all carbon frame with an aluminum back end ---- the frame wasn't designed to be like that in the first place.
Given that you're in generally good shape and health you may as well go for a good one, no point in having something cheap and nasty or substandard as stuff these days is so cheap to buy.
As for lasting a long time, certain bits never will, rims wear rapidly unless you keep them clean, chains stretch immediately, sprockets and chainrings all go after a few thousand mile. Just keep your stuff nice and clean and lubricated for better life.
Good luck.
There are loads of nice bikes out there; you are limited by time really.
Just find the nicest one that suits you, like others have said, different tubes material makes for slightly differnt ride quality but wheels and tyres do make a huge difference; don't skimp here!!!
Like I said, I would stay away from gimicky composite/Ti/Aluminum frames. Frames are usually designed to work with one particular material, it's the gap in the market (ie. budget) that allows the manaufacturer to put out an all carbon frame with an aluminum back end ---- the frame wasn't designed to be like that in the first place.
Given that you're in generally good shape and health you may as well go for a good one, no point in having something cheap and nasty or substandard as stuff these days is so cheap to buy.
As for lasting a long time, certain bits never will, rims wear rapidly unless you keep them clean, chains stretch immediately, sprockets and chainrings all go after a few thousand mile. Just keep your stuff nice and clean and lubricated for better life.
Good luck.
DBSV8 said:Ignore my last post (except for the Moots) - if you're after a bike that'll last ages, I'd go for a titanium frame (or even a modern steel one).
looking at a really good quality bike , price does not matter I want one that will last a long time
Merlin make some beautiful titanium frames, and if you don't mind waiting a few weeks, they offer a custom service as well. www.merlinbike.com
This is going to be brief (apologies in advance).
Forget it with Bianchi, unless you're an antiques collector.
You'll (obviously) need to decide what frame material will best suit your needs. There's something to be said for all four.
Merlin used to make the best Ti frames. They make still make some of the best (although of course there's a lot more competition now than there was fifteen years ago when they were setting a new standard) but I do worry about them since they were acquired by Litespeed.
If you really have an open budget, consider:
Seven
Serotta
Pegoretti
Parlee
Cervelo
In addition to Colnago and Storck, as suggested by others above.
To repeat what I said earlier, be prepared to spend more than you expect for wheels. they will be worth it.
BTW, 87 kgs is at the upper end for a competitive cyclist, so you might be pushing it for some of the lighter-weight frames and wheels. Also, 30" inseam on 5-10 frame sounds like a long torso, so you'll probably need a longer top tube than what you'll usually find as standard for your proper seat-tube height. Do NOT let someone talk you into buying a frame that needs a stem of 12cms or more. That will screw up the handling.
Forget it with Bianchi, unless you're an antiques collector.
You'll (obviously) need to decide what frame material will best suit your needs. There's something to be said for all four.
Merlin used to make the best Ti frames. They make still make some of the best (although of course there's a lot more competition now than there was fifteen years ago when they were setting a new standard) but I do worry about them since they were acquired by Litespeed.
If you really have an open budget, consider:
Seven
Serotta
Pegoretti
Parlee
Cervelo
In addition to Colnago and Storck, as suggested by others above.
To repeat what I said earlier, be prepared to spend more than you expect for wheels. they will be worth it.
BTW, 87 kgs is at the upper end for a competitive cyclist, so you might be pushing it for some of the lighter-weight frames and wheels. Also, 30" inseam on 5-10 frame sounds like a long torso, so you'll probably need a longer top tube than what you'll usually find as standard for your proper seat-tube height. Do NOT let someone talk you into buying a frame that needs a stem of 12cms or more. That will screw up the handling.
flemke said:Flemke - I didn't realise you were a bike geek!
BTW, 87 kgs is at the upper end for a competitive cyclist, so you might be pushing it for some of the lighter-weight frames and wheels. Also, 30" inseam on 5-10 frame sounds like a long torso, so you'll probably need a longer top tube than what you'll usually find as standard for your proper seat-tube height. Do NOT let someone talk you into buying a frame that needs a stem of 12cms or more. That will screw up the handling.
DBSV8 - Flemke's advice is spot on. I'd forgotten about Parlee, but if you want to be the envy of most serious cyclists (and the owner of one of the nicest bikes around) they're worth a look. www.parleecycles.com
I mentioned Omega Cycles a while back - they're UK-based (Brighton) and their build quality is superb. They also offer a custom option - their Helix looks nice - www.omegacycleworks.com/helix.htm
You can't go wrong with either Campag or Shimano's top-end groupsets. For every day use, go for clincher rather than tubular tyres (I use Continental GP4000 tyres) - I've been training on Mavic Ksyrium wheels for a couple of years now and I think they're brilliant. The rest of the bits and bobs are largely a matter of personal preference - I'd recommend trying a Fizik Aliante saddle, though
thanks
for all the iformation and advice , I have dedecided to go the Italian route
for a Colnago
www.cbike.com/c-50_hp.htm
C50 HP pictured in red.
will get measured up when I get back to Uk
cheers
for all the iformation and advice , I have dedecided to go the Italian route
for a Colnago
www.cbike.com/c-50_hp.htm
C50 HP pictured in red.
will get measured up when I get back to Uk
cheers
DBSV8 said:Four years ago a Dutch cycling friend of mine was sitting in a cafe after one of the World Cup races. Sitting at the next table were Johan Museeuw and Frank Vandenbroucke. Amongst their other chatter (no jokes about EPO, now), they agreed that the C40 was the best frame they'd ever ridden. The C50 is slightly better.
thanks
for all the iformation and advice , I have dedecided to go the Italian route
for a Colnago
www.cbike.com/c-50_hp.htm
Enjoy.
polar_ben said:
BTW, 87 kgs is at the upper end for a competitive cyclist, so you might be pushing it for some of the lighter-weight frames and wheels. Also, 30" inseam on 5-10 frame sounds like a long torso, so you'll probably need a longer top tube than what you'll usually find as standard for your proper seat-tube height. Do NOT let someone talk you into buying a frame that needs a stem of 12cms or more. That will screw up the handling.
Well, you did already know that I was a geek!
Surely clinchers are more convenient, but tubs are so comfortable that one has got to experience them, if only on special occasions.
Aliante saddle is really good, but have you tried the Fizik Arione? Its looks are less classic, but the extra power and change of position make it the better choice - it is definitely worth a try.
I know that DBS is...not the tiniest rider in the peloton, so Ksyriums will do the job. Don't they weigh around 1550 or so? Carbon wheels that weigh 1200 or less make such a difference. They're very dear, but we are indulging our fantasies here.
All this highlights why top-end bicycles are so much more accessible than cars. And in the case of a catastrophic mechanical failure, you don't need the RAC, a low loader and a fat chequebook, you just need a chain tool.
Cheers.
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