3.2 carrera strut brace
Discussion
You don't say if your car is completely standard, but assuming it is:-
Ist thing to check is that your throttle is opening all the way when you fully depress the pedal. Loads of 3.2's have slack in the linkage, but it's fairly simply to adjust. Costs you 1/2 hour of effort.
Now to actually spending money.
2) Best VFM improvement you could do to a 3.2 is to lower it & get the geometry set up for your desired use. Where are you based? - RSR Engineering in Grayshot Surrey are very good at this.
3) Next biggest improvement for track use is some proper tyres - Dunlop DZ02G or similar.
4) A Steve Wong (911Chips.Com) chip is almost a no brainer. Track or road use.
5) Next I'd look at brakes - First get rid of the brake dust sheilds (they hold in heat) & change the fluid to Castrol SRF (not forgetting to bleed the clutch at the same time) & see how you go. If you need more help with brakes, then add some cooling ducts www.paragon-products.com/product_p/bd-5600.htm
these are good & mean you don't have to chop the front spoiler about, if still not enough then go for Portafield pads or similar, which is about as far as you can go w/o upgrading the calipers / discs & getting into more serious dosh.
6) Turbo track rods will sharpen up the steering and fitting a strut brace will improve turn in, but your now into marginal improvements.
7) If you going to do lots of t/days lighter race seats & 6 point harnesses will hold you in place better, give you more confidence & be a fair bit lighter.
Alternatively just buy my CS & your good to go - see the classified section
Hope that helps.
Andy
>> Edited by andy tims on Sunday 12th February 20:01
Ist thing to check is that your throttle is opening all the way when you fully depress the pedal. Loads of 3.2's have slack in the linkage, but it's fairly simply to adjust. Costs you 1/2 hour of effort.
Now to actually spending money.
2) Best VFM improvement you could do to a 3.2 is to lower it & get the geometry set up for your desired use. Where are you based? - RSR Engineering in Grayshot Surrey are very good at this.
3) Next biggest improvement for track use is some proper tyres - Dunlop DZ02G or similar.
4) A Steve Wong (911Chips.Com) chip is almost a no brainer. Track or road use.
5) Next I'd look at brakes - First get rid of the brake dust sheilds (they hold in heat) & change the fluid to Castrol SRF (not forgetting to bleed the clutch at the same time) & see how you go. If you need more help with brakes, then add some cooling ducts www.paragon-products.com/product_p/bd-5600.htm
these are good & mean you don't have to chop the front spoiler about, if still not enough then go for Portafield pads or similar, which is about as far as you can go w/o upgrading the calipers / discs & getting into more serious dosh.
6) Turbo track rods will sharpen up the steering and fitting a strut brace will improve turn in, but your now into marginal improvements.
7) If you going to do lots of t/days lighter race seats & 6 point harnesses will hold you in place better, give you more confidence & be a fair bit lighter.
Alternatively just buy my CS & your good to go - see the classified section
Hope that helps.
Andy
>> Edited by andy tims on Sunday 12th February 20:01
Mine's in Strasse at the moment.
They are replacing all the brake hoses with braided ones and refilling with Racing Blue fluid so I don't boil the buggers again in the Alps on EuroHoon!
They are also upgrading the track rods/bushes with Turbo items, checking the throttle linkage has no play (thanks Andy!) ... making sure the fuel pump is up to delivering the required amount at high speed full throttle, sticking a Dansk 84mm outlet back box and adding 25mm spacers to the rear wheels.
I had thought about lowering, but, as I was advised, then that means you have less suspension travel before hitting the stops, so you then need to stiffen it, which then affects the geometry... and for the type of roads we use for hooning this might not be ideal, so I am leaving it alone for now
They are replacing all the brake hoses with braided ones and refilling with Racing Blue fluid so I don't boil the buggers again in the Alps on EuroHoon!
They are also upgrading the track rods/bushes with Turbo items, checking the throttle linkage has no play (thanks Andy!) ... making sure the fuel pump is up to delivering the required amount at high speed full throttle, sticking a Dansk 84mm outlet back box and adding 25mm spacers to the rear wheels.
I had thought about lowering, but, as I was advised, then that means you have less suspension travel before hitting the stops, so you then need to stiffen it, which then affects the geometry... and for the type of roads we use for hooning this might not be ideal, so I am leaving it alone for now
burriana said:
I had thought about lowering, but, as I was advised, then that means you have less suspension travel before hitting the stops, so you then need to stiffen it, which then affects the geometry... and for the type of roads we use for hooning this might not be ideal, so I am leaving it alone for now
There's lowering and there's lowering.
When I had my G50 3.2, Ninemeister suggested Billstein inserts/rear shocks and a slight lowering (i.e. replicating CS setup): I come from a rally-driving background, where hitting the bump stops, or using the chassis as a point of contact between car & road is a very BAD THING. However, people like Colin Belton have masses of experience, and the car after he finished was a dream. It looked right (so many 3.2's seem to have an imbalance between front/rear ride height), and it drove superbly. Not much stiffer than standard, but a lot less body roll, a lot better turn in without front end "patter", and never grounded or bump-stopped it once. Throttle off oversteer brakeaway (as tested at Bedford Autodrome) was also relatively smooth and predictable.
andy tims said:
You don't say if your car is completely standard, but assuming it is:-
Ist thing to check is that your throttle is opening all the way when you fully depress the pedal. Loads of 3.2's have slack in the linkage, but it's fairly simply to adjust. Costs you 1/2 hour of effort.
Now to actually spending money.
2) Best VFM improvement you could do to a 3.2 is to lower it & get the geometry set up for your desired use. Where are you based? - RSR Engineering in Grayshot Surrey are very good at this.
3) Next biggest improvement for track use is some proper tyres - Dunlop DZ02G or similar.
4) A Steve Wong (911Chips.Com) chip is almost a no brainer. Track or road use.
5) Next I'd look at brakes - First get rid of the brake dust sheilds (they hold in heat) & change the fluid to Castrol SRF (not forgetting to bleed the clutch at the same time) & see how you go. If you need more help with brakes, then add some cooling ducts www.paragon-products.com/product_p/bd-5600.htm
these are good & mean you don't have to chop the front spoiler about, if still not enough then go for Portafield pads or similar, which is about as far as you can go w/o upgrading the calipers / discs & getting into more serious dosh.
6) Turbo track rods will sharpen up the steering and fitting a strut brace will improve turn in, but your now into marginal improvements.
7) If you going to do lots of t/days lighter race seats & 6 point harnesses will hold you in place better, give you more confidence & be a fair bit lighter.
Alternatively just buy my CS & your good to go - see the classified section
Hope that helps.
Andy
Andy,
Thanks again for your comprehensive reply and in response to your suggestions I can already satisfy some of them (should have mentioned these at first post
) 1. Just undergone a top end (and gearbox and clutch) rebuild so hopefully throttle linkage should be fine
2. Nicely lowered with rear turbo torsion bar fitted and seems (from my limited experience) nicely set up similar to RS spec (though have no idea what shockers are fitted)
3. Something I'm considering when funds allow (if they ever do if SWMBO has owt to do with it)
4. Never thought about this one with a N/A engine
5. At present has Racing Blue fluid (have 964 bumpers so RS ducts will fit nicely)
6. Another thing I've thought about (around £80 plus fitting I think)
7. OMP lightweight FIA seats fitted
So back to the strut brace, with what has already been done, will fitting one offer any noticable improvement?
IMHO - No difference whatsoever. A 911 chassis is already extremly stiff and doesn't need extra support between the rear pillars (there is an engine in the way for starters..) or front pillars. On the 996/997 they already have a factory strut to the bulkhead - not sure on a 3.2 though. If you do get one, the at least get something substantial rather they the ebay c&^p - they are just for max power looks and will just bend in the event of stress anyway (so totally pointless..) Of course, the extra weight on the brace has a negative effect on performance...
PS - One thing I didn't see on the lists was 'driver training' - The SINGLE most cost effective performance upgrade you can make ... :-)
PS - One thing I didn't see on the lists was 'driver training' - The SINGLE most cost effective performance upgrade you can make ... :-)
richardb.jones said:
IMHO - No difference whatsoever. A 911 chassis is already extremly stiff and doesn't need extra support
My 3.2 had the Weltmeister fitted. Off track, I concede the difference wasn't worth it.
On the other hand, if the 911 3.2 chassis was that stiff, it's odd that the factory fitted strut braces to the only racing version, the SC RS (Typ 954, I think)
Gassing Station | Porsche General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff