Oil Change concern!!!
Discussion
Hey all!
Got my Wedge bible yesterday and ready to start the work on the beast!
In the oil change section it mentions about changing the oil filter and ending up with the oil pump not primed-i.e resulting in no oil pressure. Any one had this problem??
Ive got a 400se with the oil filter which is remote (on by the wing and not on the engine)...all the ones ive seen have this but dont know if this is a modification or not?!
Should i be concerned?
Thanks all!!
Got my Wedge bible yesterday and ready to start the work on the beast!
In the oil change section it mentions about changing the oil filter and ending up with the oil pump not primed-i.e resulting in no oil pressure. Any one had this problem??
Ive got a 400se with the oil filter which is remote (on by the wing and not on the engine)...all the ones ive seen have this but dont know if this is a modification or not?!
Should i be concerned?
Thanks all!!
matt-man said:
Hey all!
Got my Wedge bible yesterday and ready to start the work on the beast!
In the oil change section it mentions about changing the oil filter and ending up with the oil pump not primed-i.e resulting in no oil pressure. Any one had this problem??
Ive got a 400se with the oil filter which is remote (on by the wing and not on the engine)...all the ones ive seen have this but dont know if this is a modification or not?!
Should i be concerned?
Thanks all!!
My filter is in the front right corner of the engine from the drivers perspective.
If you do start the car and the low pressure light doesn't go off within a few seconds, then turn the engine off. Don't drive it.
Pour oil into the filter (upside down on the bench) and leave it for a while to soak into the paper element then put more in.
Keep filling it & tapping the filter body as you go to remove bubbles.
You will find you can almost fill it before spinning it on.
If you are quick as you upturn it you will only loose a dribble cos of the one way valve.
Before you start up disconnect the coil and wizz it over to build up pressure then try it. Should be fine. If you are changing the plugs aswell leave them out while you turn it over to prevent flooding.
Keep filling it & tapping the filter body as you go to remove bubbles.
You will find you can almost fill it before spinning it on.
If you are quick as you upturn it you will only loose a dribble cos of the one way valve.
Before you start up disconnect the coil and wizz it over to build up pressure then try it. Should be fine. If you are changing the plugs aswell leave them out while you turn it over to prevent flooding.
If you do unprime the pump, then don't panic the easy way to get it working again is to remove the hose towards the front of the engine bay and use an oil can to pump it full of oil, then replace. and spin up on the starter wihout the coil lead as suggested. you may have to repeat this a few times, otherwise its taking the front of the pump off and packing it with vaseline time
Matt
Matt
I've never had the pump need priming again. As others have said, don't leave it too long between draining and putting the new filter on. If you're going to build up pressure before starting (I generally do myself) not only pull the coil lead off but remove the fuel pump relay, otherwise you flood the engine.
7.
7.
Adams method works fine. I didnt believe there was a connection between the centre boss the pump and the outer return holes.
So moded the method slightly. Put some engine oil in an old transmision oil bottle used a bit of hose to increase the diameter of the tube so that I had a good fit on the filter centre bossand squeezed, lo and behold oil came up the outer holes, then spun the part oil filled filter onto the boss. Presto job done.
:
So moded the method slightly. Put some engine oil in an old transmision oil bottle used a bit of hose to increase the diameter of the tube so that I had a good fit on the filter centre bossand squeezed, lo and behold oil came up the outer holes, then spun the part oil filled filter onto the boss. Presto job done.
: just done mine, changed oil first then changed the oil filter. you can have the old one off and the new one on in about 30 seconds if you have it oiled up ready, i had no problems and didnt need to prime the filter. put plenty of rags under the old filter before removal it will drop oil all over, never over tighten the sump plug, and make SURE the oil filter is fitted with a none return valve.I used castrol rs 10w/60 and it seams exelent.
Ive never had any problems either. In fact, for the first few years I knew nothing about this oil drain back issue. I used to take my old filter off, pop it down to the local motor factors, choose an identical one, come home and give it a nice coat of paint to disguise all the makers names etc. Fit it on once dry, refill the engine with oil, turn the key and the oil pressure was always there within a couple of seconds
If you do experience zero pressure though, then I'm sure that by pouring some oil down the central filter mount that all will be well again. Perhaps also combine this with removing the dizzy HT lead and turning the engine over until preasure is restored. All been mentioned already, but in my opinion I think its more rare than not to experience this zero oil pressure problem.
If you do experience zero pressure though, then I'm sure that by pouring some oil down the central filter mount that all will be well again. Perhaps also combine this with removing the dizzy HT lead and turning the engine over until preasure is restored. All been mentioned already, but in my opinion I think its more rare than not to experience this zero oil pressure problem.
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