Discussion
Been working on my clutch today. Thought it was fixed. But no.
Knowing that the operating mechanism (lever, pushrod) at the clutch itself can give trouble as well (had this on a Rover SD1 after installation of another gearbox).
But the clutch stopped working suddenly while driving, as the hydraulic pressure was not kept. Also the fluid level was down. So could it be a mechanical problem of the clutch itself happing at the same time as the failing hydraulics?
Bit frustrating as normally I get everything fixed first time round.....
Rob - '87 350i
Knowing that the operating mechanism (lever, pushrod) at the clutch itself can give trouble as well (had this on a Rover SD1 after installation of another gearbox).
But the clutch stopped working suddenly while driving, as the hydraulic pressure was not kept. Also the fluid level was down. So could it be a mechanical problem of the clutch itself happing at the same time as the failing hydraulics?
Bit frustrating as normally I get everything fixed first time round.....
Rob - '87 350i
No need to remove the plate - if it's leaking fluid it'll be dribbling out of the drain hole in the bellhousing.
More likely it's the master cylinder - these are vulnerable especially if they aren't quite square to the bulkhead. You need to sit upside down in the drivers seat with your head in the footwell to see the leak, but if it's leaking you'll see drips coming down the bulkhead or on the actuator rod or the rubber.
More likely it's the master cylinder - these are vulnerable especially if they aren't quite square to the bulkhead. You need to sit upside down in the drivers seat with your head in the footwell to see the leak, but if it's leaking you'll see drips coming down the bulkhead or on the actuator rod or the rubber.
Thank you for the feedback.
Before starting the repair had a look for a leak at the master cilinder, and found none. Checking for fluid at the bellhousing is difficult as it is dirty/oily, etc. but saw nothing dripping out.
Will remove the plate to have a look at the operating mechanism. Especially as the pushrod didn't seem 'long enough' as the full length stayed in the bellhousing while being attached to the lever, so it was difficult to reinstall the slave.
Again the to do list is getting longer, as you plan on shortening it and now hoping there is nothing wrong with the lever/pushrod as it is then a gearbox out exercise and wasn't planning for that.
Rob
Before starting the repair had a look for a leak at the master cilinder, and found none. Checking for fluid at the bellhousing is difficult as it is dirty/oily, etc. but saw nothing dripping out.
Will remove the plate to have a look at the operating mechanism. Especially as the pushrod didn't seem 'long enough' as the full length stayed in the bellhousing while being attached to the lever, so it was difficult to reinstall the slave.
Again the to do list is getting longer, as you plan on shortening it and now hoping there is nothing wrong with the lever/pushrod as it is then a gearbox out exercise and wasn't planning for that.
Rob
350zwelgje said:
Thank you for the feedback.
Especially as the pushrod didn't seem 'long enough' as the full length stayed in the bellhousing while being attached to the lever, so it was difficult to reinstall the slave.
Rob
No - that sounds about right. Whatever you do don't try and pull the pushrod out further - you could pull the lever off its pivot retaining clip and it _will_be a box out job.
So - you're losing fluid but can't see where from? Try putting a sheet of newspaper under the drivers side and pressing the clutch ten times. Maybe there's a split in the pipe?
blaineuk said:
the clutch lever arm can crack or become dislocated, or the slave cylinder could have failed hence loss of fluid, you could remove the plate underneath and look while someone operates the clutch.
Had this on a SD1. The clutch lever pivot ball came right through the lever. This happened in atight space while trying to manouver over a pit. Dodgy!!!
So should the pushrod stick out of the bellhousing? And if yes, about how far.
The rod only sticked out a few milimeters and the Haynes manual (and my memory) tell me it should stick out something like 0.5 inch.
As I think it is possible that the lever gave away (bending seems to be possible, although I did not experience this in the past myself) or the rod has pushed throught the lever (but it felt like a correct attachment to the lever when checked before installing the slave).
If I need to install a new lever, are stronger versions available to improve on the standard setup? As when full surgery is necessary will consider a cluth upgrade and thus risk additional force to be handled by the lever.
As mentioned before will take the plate off to check first, and continue from there.
Rob
The rod only sticked out a few milimeters and the Haynes manual (and my memory) tell me it should stick out something like 0.5 inch.
As I think it is possible that the lever gave away (bending seems to be possible, although I did not experience this in the past myself) or the rod has pushed throught the lever (but it felt like a correct attachment to the lever when checked before installing the slave).
If I need to install a new lever, are stronger versions available to improve on the standard setup? As when full surgery is necessary will consider a cluth upgrade and thus risk additional force to be handled by the lever.
As mentioned before will take the plate off to check first, and continue from there.
Rob
deetes said:
the clutch lever arm can crack or become dislocated, or the slave cylinder could have failed hence loss of fluid, you could remove the plate underneath and look while someone operates the clutch.
Had this on a SD1. The clutch lever pivot ball came right through the lever. This happened in atight space while trying to manouver over a pit. Dodgy!!!
Yes, back on my clutch nightmare: pivot sticking through the lever!
After checking and finishing the hydraulic work, took the cover plate at the bottom off to have a look and discovered the real problem. So engine&box out job. Will get the box overhauled while it is out.
Practical problem is that my garage is not finished yet, and will search for means to be able to work on the TVR first.
Any tips for stuff related to clutch, engine or gearbox that is logic to do while it is all in pieces and not in the wedge?
Hmm, BBWF......
Rob
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