Rear disc ....
Discussion
Anyone who can give me some advise on replacement of rear discs on a Tasmin 350?
Is it a straightforward job or is it something for the local garage?
It seems like the disc is held in place with the nuts/bolts from the driveshaft. Correct?
Likewise replacement of the bush on the "bar" between the chassis and the rear wheel. The bar I´m referring to leads from the bottom of the rear shock and connects to the chassis. What is the correct word for this "bar"?
/Andgus
Is it a straightforward job or is it something for the local garage?
It seems like the disc is held in place with the nuts/bolts from the driveshaft. Correct?
Likewise replacement of the bush on the "bar" between the chassis and the rear wheel. The bar I´m referring to leads from the bottom of the rear shock and connects to the chassis. What is the correct word for this "bar"?
/Andgus
andgus said:If you're confident at removing suspension then this should be no problem. Some tight access around the calipers but otherwise straight forward.
Anyone who can give me some advise on replacement of rear discs on a Tasmin 350?
andgus said:Correct. These are all metal locking nuts (because of heat from the brakes) and as you say hold the driveshafts on. Make sure they provide locking or replace with new. Camber is adjusted by fitting shims between disk and driveshaft count them off and count them back on again!
It seems like the disc is held in place with the nuts/bolts from the driveshaft. Correct?...
andgus said:Leading link, trailing link, torque reaction bar? Take your pick. I don't know.
...Likewise replacement of the bush on the "bar" between the chassis and the rear wheel. The bar I´m referring to leads from the bottom of the rear shock and connects to the chassis. What is the correct word for this "bar"?
Not done this but I wouldn't have thought it would be too difficult.
Anders, as Leo says, if you're fairly confident with the spanners, you should be able to manage. Assuming you've got a A frame, all you need to do is just slacken slightly the nuts and bolts either side of the bottom of the hub carrier - this will allow the driveshaft to pivot down. Remove the nut & bolt from the end of the tie bar (that's what I call it) at the hub, and pivot the bar upwards. Remove the four nuts securing the driveshaft flange to the diff - you should be able to do two at a time, with the handbrake on to prevent turning. The driveshaft flange can then be pulled off the diff and just rested on a convenient part of the chassis. The most difficult bit follows: Disconnect the handbrake at the caliper end, and remove the handbrake calipers - you should have to lever up the locking tabs under the nuts to allow them to turn. Remove the main brake pads. The main caliper bolts (2 each) should be lockwired - remove and undo the bolts - very tight access as Leo says. After disconnecting the hydraulic connection to the caliper, and one end of the caliper to caliper pipe, you will be able to remove the calipers, although they only fit through the chassis one way. On refitting the calipers must again be lockwired. Very tricky.
Best of luck.
7.
Best of luck.
7.
....just a single link to the centre of the chassis. Hi Andgus - there are two bars - the big box-shaped one going diagonally, called the trailing arm, and the one that goes towards the diff U-channel, called the lower link.
I suspect you mean the trailing arm, it's a fiddly job but if you are changing the discs you'll be halfway there anyway. When you put the new bush on you might have to grind away a corner of the metal plate it's on to fit it in the chassis. If you re-use all the washers that were on the swivel pin you'll end up with roughly the right toe-in, but to be sure you might want to get it checked.
When putting it back together it's easiest to put the lower link on last, especially if you've had poly bushes fitted.
I suspect you mean the trailing arm, it's a fiddly job but if you are changing the discs you'll be halfway there anyway. When you put the new bush on you might have to grind away a corner of the metal plate it's on to fit it in the chassis. If you re-use all the washers that were on the swivel pin you'll end up with roughly the right toe-in, but to be sure you might want to get it checked.
When putting it back together it's easiest to put the lower link on last, especially if you've had poly bushes fitted.
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