Laid up for a year!
Discussion
Better to run it occasionally if you can, otherwise seals tend to dry out, engine bores can go rusty, all sorts of nasties
Most cars don't like being left TVR's especially so
However if you must then have the plugs out and pump a bit of engine oil into the bores and replace the plugs (remember to spin it over without plugs when you come to restart) also jack it up on the chassis as mentioned, to avoid damaging the tyres.
If you can strech to keeping it in a de-humidifed place that'll also help
Matt
Most cars don't like being left TVR's especially so
However if you must then have the plugs out and pump a bit of engine oil into the bores and replace the plugs (remember to spin it over without plugs when you come to restart) also jack it up on the chassis as mentioned, to avoid damaging the tyres.
If you can strech to keeping it in a de-humidifed place that'll also help
Matt
Might consider draining the windscreen washer fluid or replacing with water as it can turn to jelly.
I think it should have a full tank of fuel.
Brakes shouldn't seize if you leave the handbrake off but clutch probably will. If it does, to fix, run engine for half an hour, depress clutch and brake pedal, hearty shove into 1st gear (for this reason, back the car into storage). Reverse is usually better but cerbs can't be put straight into reverse as we know!
I think it should have a full tank of fuel.
Brakes shouldn't seize if you leave the handbrake off but clutch probably will. If it does, to fix, run engine for half an hour, depress clutch and brake pedal, hearty shove into 1st gear (for this reason, back the car into storage). Reverse is usually better but cerbs can't be put straight into reverse as we know!
FarmyardPants said:
Brakes shouldn't seize if you leave the handbrake off but clutch probably will. If it does, to fix, run engine for half an hour, depress clutch and brake pedal, hearty shove into 1st gear
Or a mechanically more gentle option.... jack one rear wheel off the ground, engage 2nd gear and start the engine, get it up to 2-3k revs and with clutch pedal depressed hit the brakes hard - might take two or three goes but it always worked on my TR6 after lengthy times in storage. For more inertia/force jack both rear wheels off the ground.
Ffirg 005 said:
FarmyardPants said:
Brakes shouldn't seize if you leave the handbrake off but clutch probably will. If it does, to fix, run engine for half an hour, depress clutch and brake pedal, hearty shove into 1st gear
Or a mechanically more gentle option.... jack one rear wheel off the ground, engage 2nd gear and start the engine, get it up to 2-3k revs and with clutch pedal depressed hit the brakes hard - might take two or three goes but it always worked on my TR6 after lengthy times in storage. For more inertia/force jack both rear wheels off the ground.
If its a 4.5, don't do this - it'll have hydratrack and the car will head off down the road with one wheel on the jack!!! Better with both wheels off the ground!!!
Rob
robscim said:
Ffirg 005 said:
FarmyardPants said:
Brakes shouldn't seize if you leave the handbrake off but clutch probably will. If it does, to fix, run engine for half an hour, depress clutch and brake pedal, hearty shove into 1st gear
Or a mechanically more gentle option.... jack one rear wheel off the ground, engage 2nd gear and start the engine, get it up to 2-3k revs and with clutch pedal depressed hit the brakes hard - might take two or three goes but it always worked on my TR6 after lengthy times in storage. For more inertia/force jack both rear wheels off the ground.
If its a 4.5, don't do this - it'll have hydratrack and the car will head off down the road with one wheel on the jack!!! Better with both wheels off the ground!!!
Rob
He did say jack both wheels off the ground???
I've seen what could be a usefull thingy for you - in the back of 'classic and sports car' magazine they're advertising home rolling roads to exercise your car without taking it out of the garage. They say you can drive it changing gear and braking etc.. not the real thing I grant you but could give you a fix when needed! (although I think it's bloody dangerous without anchoring the car somehow first!) See www.drivingrollers.com
>> Edited by cerbagriff on Wednesday 8th March 16:40
>> Edited by cerbagriff on Wednesday 8th March 16:40
cerbagriff said:
I've seen what could be a usefull thingy for you - in the back of 'classic and sports car' magazine they're advertising home rolling roads to exercise your car without taking it out of the garage. They say you can drive it changing gear and braking etc.. not the real thing I grant you but could give you a fix when needed! (although I think it's bloody dangerous without anchoring the car somehow first!) See www.drivingrollers.com
>> Edited by cerbagriff on Wednesday 8th March 16:40
hmmnn... the words "happen accidents waiting to" spring to mind
>> Edited by hbeck on Wednesday 8th March 17:19
purpleheadedcerb said:
robscim said:
Ffirg 005 said:
FarmyardPants said:
Brakes shouldn't seize if you leave the handbrake off but clutch probably will. If it does, to fix, run engine for half an hour, depress clutch and brake pedal, hearty shove into 1st gear
Or a mechanically more gentle option.... jack one rear wheel off the ground, engage 2nd gear and start the engine, get it up to 2-3k revs and with clutch pedal depressed hit the brakes hard - might take two or three goes but it always worked on my TR6 after lengthy times in storage. For more inertia/force jack both rear wheels off the ground.
If its a 4.5, don't do this - it'll have hydratrack and the car will head off down the road with one wheel on the jack!!! Better with both wheels off the ground!!!
Rob
He did say jack both wheels off the ground???
Hmmm.. numbers are my game and one isn't two
Sorry to sound picky but that scared me!
Cheers
Rob
robscim said:
purpleheadedcerb said:
robscim said:
Ffirg 005 said:
FarmyardPants said:
Brakes shouldn't seize if you leave the handbrake off but clutch probably will. If it does, to fix, run engine for half an hour, depress clutch and brake pedal, hearty shove into 1st gear
Or a mechanically more gentle option.... jack one rear wheel off the ground, engage 2nd gear and start the engine, get it up to 2-3k revs and with clutch pedal depressed hit the brakes hard - might take two or three goes but it always worked on my TR6 after lengthy times in storage. For more inertia/force jack both rear wheels off the ground.
If its a 4.5, don't do this - it'll have hydratrack and the car will head off down the road with one wheel on the jack!!! Better with both wheels off the ground!!!
Rob
He did say jack both wheels off the ground???
Hmmm.. numbers are my game and one isn't two![]()
Sorry to sound picky but that scared me!
Cheers
Rob
ahem.... so I did. Though one wheel was fine for the LSD on the TR6 I was forgetting the "advanced" features of hydratrak that would make this a very bad idea for a Cerb...

Whoops. I think I misread the seperate quote box!
TR6's don't have a limited slip diff as standard and the salisbury plate type diffs are serious hen's teeth. I reckon that if you were able to jack one wheel up and apply power without the other gaining traction then it sounds like a standard diff.
Slightly off topic I know but I'm a bit of a triumph nut!
TR6's don't have a limited slip diff as standard and the salisbury plate type diffs are serious hen's teeth. I reckon that if you were able to jack one wheel up and apply power without the other gaining traction then it sounds like a standard diff.
Slightly off topic I know but I'm a bit of a triumph nut!
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