"Old Style" door seals.
"Old Style" door seals.
Author
Discussion

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

276 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
I dropped the car off to Power last week, to have some new door seals fitted.

Apparently, the seals they have in stock, don't fit the 96 car, as the design has changed.

Has anybody had their's swapped on an older vehicle ?

If so, where please ?

Extra 300 Driver

5,282 posts

275 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
I have the newer seals fitted, they are thicker. I think there are some adjustments that need to be made to the rigging of the door once they are fitted.

longbow

1,610 posts

264 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
Why did you have to have new seals fitted out of curiosity? I looked into changing mine, as my side windows blow out the seals over 120mph which is a bit annoying. However, after reading the TVR service bulletins it seems you need to drill some holes in the boot to vent excess pressure that builds up in the cabin.

Extra 300 Driver

5,282 posts

275 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
Not too sure, it was dne before I got hold of the car.

Holes in the boot? Would that not cause a draft?

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

276 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
Power mentioned having to cut the top of the door out to have the later style seals fitted, it sounds messy.

Mine need replacing as they're letting water in, they've repaired them, but this morning the door panel is wet (at the lower front)

Am I expecting too much, trying to get a car that's dry inside ?

gazzab

21,635 posts

311 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
drill hols out from under rear screen ie in the lip under screen and behind rear of boot lid. Look at a post 98 car.

suffolkfox

462 posts

282 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
New seals : better sealing due to depth, more firm push when door opening due to greater spingeyness, lower wind noise on some cars BUT

requires spacing out of doors on most cars, adjustment of alignment, new chip in ecu to give stronger and faster lift to overcome additional drag recommended (good idea anyway), may push top edge of window to edge of top rubber lip so on limit of top edge sealing and may pop out at speed.

Can be a pain to fit depending on the car, but garage incorrect that they will not fit (they are just a standard push on same as the originals, unless TVR have come up with a replacement for the replacement 'double bubble shape', that is).


>> Edited by suffolkfox on Thursday 9th March 12:53

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

276 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
Cheers SF, I think they got the seals on, but the top of the door wouldn't close without breaking the window.

Has your's got the later seals ?

If so, who fitted them please ?

RUSSELLM

Original Poster:

6,002 posts

276 months

Thursday 9th March 2006
quotequote all
I've just googled the problem & found this

said:

Door seal uprating Wind noise & water leaks joospeed says: I've just done this very job on an early 4.5 Cerbera but I have to warn you that it isn't straightforward ( is anything on a TVR?).
Firstly the door aperture seal comes off, followed by the lipped seal along the roof top. A new lipped seal with a bigger lip on it has to be fitted with a plastic strip with rivets on it and this is then fitted onto the car.
Next the double door aperture seal is fitted. All this is pretty much as you would expect, however because of the extra width of the seal, the door hinges must be spaced out from the car body or the door doesn't shut and this bit is a real pain in the ****!! Then you'll need a different chip in the window ECU in the boot to give more power to the window lift motor or it won't go up to the top. If it gets done inside 8 hours and doesn't leak or have wind noise then consider yourself very lucky. "


Sound like a simple job for me then