3200 Brake discs
Discussion
s70jps said:
Are there any alternative discs for the 3200? If so how much are they and where do I get them from? Any advice welcome. (I will be fitting them myself). Are the EBC pads any good?
At a sensible price, no. Modena Performance in Germany offer larger 350mm discs with either 6 or 10 pot calipers (€3,400/3,800 respectively) or even ceramic at around €5,000 - All can be used with standard 18" wheels.
However, since Maserati OEM equipment is Brembo, why change what works well? FWIW, Brembo design their systems in such a way that the discs wear sacrificially on a 3:1 basis so that 3 sets of fully worn pads will usually require new discs. As this is equivalent to 2 mm wear, it may be possible to reface your discs at moderate cost, if you are comfortably within wear limits (IIRC Front 32mm new / 30mm limit and rear 28mm new / 26mm limit BUT do check first).
No personal experience of EBC but have heard others swear by them whilst some swear at them. Whatever, just make sure they are are road legal (E marked) and include the brake wear sensors.
Hope this helps
s70jps said:
Are there any alternative discs for the 3200? If so how much are they and where do I get them from? Any advice welcome. (I will be fitting them myself). Are the EBC pads any good?
Right s70jps, Have just gone through the exact scenario. Discs from Maser are £200 per side and pads are £200, so £600 just for the front end. You can get better for the same money from needforspeed.co.uk, or you can go silly and get ceramic with braided hoses etc for upwards of £1000. You can get virtually new OEM discs from "David Askew Maserati breakers" (google him) in the midlands for much less. I paid £120 for a pair of front disc's which had only done 400 miles, they were off a 4200 but exactly the same. Pads I opted for EBC red ceramics at £90 delivered to my front door within 2 days but standard reds will do fine for normal road use. EBC pads do wear about twice the speed of OEM's but do ZERO disc wear. They don't have the wear indicators on them but you dont need them, the pads are painted red on the edges and you can easily see when they need replacing even through the alloy spokes.
The nearside OEM's have a pair of wires which when the circuit is broken by pads wearing through the lead buried in the pad causes the dash brake warniing light to illuminate. When useing pads without wear indicators you can create the circuit at the connector where the OEMs plug in by just 2 small females bullet type connectors and a joining wire. This fools the check to believe the that a full circuit is present (in fact it is, but just not in the pads.)
My experience with EBC's is that when cold they are worse than OEMs but when warmed they are miles better, they warm very quickly and you dont need hard breaking to keep them warm, normal use is fine. They give you the added advantage of a much quicker initial bite, something I found wanting in OEMs.
If only I could sort the handbrake so easily, the cables stretch like elastic and after a couple of applications its useless and requires adjusting again. Oh well something to play with next weekend (weather permitting).
If you have any questions Ive not covered, post it or mail me.
Hope this helps.
Ordered EBC red ceramics direct from their site cost £5 more than yours for some reason. David is asking £150 for the discs just in the process of bartering on the basis that you paid £120.
Is there anything I need to know about fitting them? Any special tools or are they just the same as any other car?
>> Edited by s70jps on Thursday 16th March 16:00
Is there anything I need to know about fitting them? Any special tools or are they just the same as any other car?
>> Edited by s70jps on Thursday 16th March 16:00
Hi s70jps, I take it your brakes are worn hence the change of discs/pads, but wanted to know what you thought of your brakes when you first got the car ? The reason I am asking is I have found the brakes on my 3200 lacks that initial bite, which is what I am used to driving other cars. It is more aparent at higher speeds. After some research on the net this may be classed as spongy brakes which requires a break fluid check. I am due to get the brakes checked out ( hopefully this weekend ) at my nearest specialist, but would be interested in your findings as depending on what the inspection brings up I may too be going down the same road and sourcing some discs and purchasing some EBC pads (the red ones) also...
Look forward to your reply
Look forward to your reply
I may have got a deal on my disc's because I had a couple of black front seats also (250 quid) plus the discs all in cash notes. With the red ceramic pads don't forget to make up a jump lead for the wear indicator wiring or your dash brake warning light will be on constantly. My Pads may have been 95.00, I was talking in general terms. You dont need any special tools but the discs do tend to get stuck to the hub plate so a can of WD40, some time and a club hammer will come in handy. not as brutal as it sounds, once you have the wheel and calliper off hit the rear face of the disc, remembering to turn it some every hit and it will become free fairly easily. There is a small retaining clip holding the brake pipe at the flexi/solid joint which can be awkward to get back on squarly but it comes off easily (aint that always the way!). The only other thing you will need apart from a socket set, is a small drift for removing the pad retaining pins. It shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours to do both sides unless you have problems with pushing the pistons back in. Also keep a check on the fluid level, you dont want that overflowing striping all the paint from your engine bay with it.
Sorry if Im teaching you to suck eggs, but without knowing you I cant know your mechanical ability.
ps If you need any further info mail me your mob number and we can talk it through
Sorry if Im teaching you to suck eggs, but without knowing you I cant know your mechanical ability.
ps If you need any further info mail me your mob number and we can talk it through
Fred- I also find the brakes poor at first bite. They also seem a bit hit and miss depending on temperature. No problems with the fluid though. I think they are just like that. Tested the antilocks last week at about 2/3 flat out speed. They saved me from the white van that swerved in front of me t****r! I will let you know how I get on with the new ones when I get them.
s70jps said:
New discs and pads fitted......Not driven very far yet but the pedal seems to have more travel now. Anyone else experienced this?
1) Did you check that the runout after fitting the discs was very close to zero? Very important with new units and critical with used items (If excessive, rotate disc on hub by one bolt hole at a time, bolt up and recheck runout. If still excessive, remove disc and meticulously clean hub / disc mating surfaces and recheck runout. If still exessive check disc for warping and replace).
2) Did the replacement EBC pads slot into the calipers with finger pressure only without needing a LIGHT tap from a wooden handle? If not, its possible the pads are sticking within the caliper (Remove pads, properly clean caliper seats, refit pads).
Otherwise agree with Wicked
Hope this helps
All checked ok when i fitted them. The brakes are starting to get keener. I think they need to bed in more. I only do a few miles a day. The pedal travel is definately more than before though. I would say the performance of the brakes is now equivalent to the origonal pads. The discs definately still need to bed with the pads a bit more. I had to file one one of the pads to make it slot in easily though (something I have had to do with other pads on other cars in the past). Think there was a run on the red paint making it stick.
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