TVR jacking up - advice needed
Discussion
I went to Kwik Fit to get a slow puncture sorted only to be told that they are not allowed to jack up TVR's anymore because the chassis can bend when they do it, so had to go without getting the tyre repaired !! 
I thought the TVR chassis was a very rigid construction that wouldn't bend for anything, does anyone have the technical insight to tell me if Kwik Fit is right or wrong ?
Does this mean you risk bending the chassis every time you remove a wheel ???!!
I thought the TVR chassis was a very rigid construction that wouldn't bend for anything, does anyone have the technical insight to tell me if Kwik Fit is right or wrong ?
Does this mean you risk bending the chassis every time you remove a wheel ???!!
Probably jobsworth, but there is no fixed jacking point, which may be an issue. Perhaps one of the dimmer fitters jacked on up using the shell rather than the chassis with the ineviable consequences, and as a result an edict was issued "thou shalt not ...".
I have found that you can dent the chassis tubes with a jack, but I'd be gobsmacked if you could bend one. Unless it was a typically corroded outrigger, but then no one would jack up on an outrigger - would they? [circular reference to start of post][/circular reference]
I have found that you can dent the chassis tubes with a jack, but I'd be gobsmacked if you could bend one. Unless it was a typically corroded outrigger, but then no one would jack up on an outrigger - would they? [circular reference to start of post][/circular reference]
You can bend a single tube, sure. But a triangulated chassis with all sorts of reinforcing tubes to withstand and dissipate the forces? It would take a LOT of force to bend that structure. You don't get anywhere near those forces when only a portion of the car's weight is acting on it as the bending force (which is what is happening when you jack up a car). Even an outrigger would easily support it, unless it's corroded very badly as stated earlier.
You can definitely punch a hole through the fibreglass by jacking the car up at the wrong point (a friend has done me this favour in the past!). But you are comnpletely safe jacking up on a chassis girder.
How are you supposed to removed tyres otherwise? Definitely a jobsworth.
You can definitely punch a hole through the fibreglass by jacking the car up at the wrong point (a friend has done me this favour in the past!). But you are comnpletely safe jacking up on a chassis girder.
How are you supposed to removed tyres otherwise? Definitely a jobsworth.
Looks right to me. Yes, on the T350 the body 'rolls over' the chassis a bit more, but they're the right points. I get an axle stand under the main central chassis rails as quickly as possible though to get the weight off the outriggers.
Some say you should only jack on the central rails. Have you tried reaching them with the car lowered to the ground?!
Some say you should only jack on the central rails. Have you tried reaching them with the car lowered to the ground?!
I've always jacked mine up where it bolts the body to the chassis with no problems. these cars have a much superior tubular chassis to most run of the mill production cars, they will not destort or bend and break because of a jack. stick to the area on the diagram above and all will be ok.
Have any of you seen these cars after a heafty crash. The chassis do bend then, but the car is still intact. They are built better and stronger than alot, your safer in on of these than a standard car. Even with a shell of GRP. This information came from talking to Option 1.
www.option1sportscars.co.uk
Have any of you seen these cars after a heafty crash. The chassis do bend then, but the car is still intact. They are built better and stronger than alot, your safer in on of these than a standard car. Even with a shell of GRP. This information came from talking to Option 1.
www.option1sportscars.co.uk
. 
Jacked mine yesterday (cerbera). I drove the rear onto some spare paving flags i had, starting at one, one to to, eventually 3 which allowed me enough space to get the jack with a good 2ft 2x4 piece of wood across the main frame rails in front of the diff. once up i put jack stands under the rear rails going to the out riggers (where the pics says) as close to the main rails). After this, I used the same technique for the front. no issues what so ever.
GreenV8S said:
My advice is to never jack or support on the outriggers, only jack on the square section main tubes. And use a piece of wood to protect that from the jack otherwise you'll chip the paint and dent the metal leading to corrosion problems in future.
The problem is reaching those central rails with a jack. The front is too low and the rear is too far away to reach (unless you fancy jacking the fuel tank on the T350). Normal 'low' trolley jacks won't reach, only the ultra expensivo ones might.
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