Brake cooling ducts (pics for Jes)
Discussion
Following on from the SO IS YOUR'S BLANKED OFF OR DOES IT HAVE A HOLE? thread...
This one is taken from inside the center of the nose looking up to the N/S
The how to from the other thread is below, but also; to hold it in, I tie wrapped the upper half to the indicator as can just be seen in the pic from inside the nose. That & the pipe being held by the back of the removeable plate holds it in fine. The hose had to go down & out like that or it would have court on the wheel.
Jules told me to direct the air toward the centre of his larger AP discs as they fan air that way them selves with better than standard vents. I assume the same would apply for normal discs.
From the other thread:
I fitted some flexible brake ducting hose running from them, through a suitability sized hole in the bulb replacement panel & tie wrapped it to the track rod arms aiming at the center of the disc. It worked so well there were wasps splatted on the inside of the wheel rims!
The problem I had was thinking I could just clamp the hose to the “D” shaped hole under the indicator, the wire re-enforcing was just too strong & springy So I made some fiberglass ducting that ran from both the holes connecting them both & it up. To make them; I cut up & bent some of that regular aluminum foil type air ducting to about the right shape to fit up behind the two holes, re-enforced it with masking tape, coved that in Clingfilm (so it didn’t stick to the fiberglass) then layed up fiberglass mat over them. Once hard I just ripped the foil out, then trimmed them so they fitted together & lined up correctly with the two holes in the body. When I was happy with the fit I used a small amount of P40 to stick them together while holding them in the correct place in the inner wing, easer said than done! I then found an aerosol that was just smaller than the ducting hose, put it into the newly joined end of my moldings (again covered in Clingfilm) & wrapped the whole lot in fiberglass mat. Once the aerosol can had been persuaded to come out I was left with a “Y” shaped ducting connector with a nice round end to fit the hose over. It fitted in so well it didn’t need any fixings it stays in place just by the hose being clamped into place by the tight fitting hole cut in the bulb changing panel. Also I didn’t want to fix it permanently as I wouldn’t be able to change the indicator bulb as it fits all round the back of the reflector. So I just sprayed the inside mat black & fitted it all up, you can hardly tell it’s there. That was three years ago now & they are still happily sitting there.
(Thankyou for the space for the pics uncle dave, sorry there's so many!)
>> Edited by luckyone on Thursday 16th March 17:34
This one is taken from inside the center of the nose looking up to the N/S
The how to from the other thread is below, but also; to hold it in, I tie wrapped the upper half to the indicator as can just be seen in the pic from inside the nose. That & the pipe being held by the back of the removeable plate holds it in fine. The hose had to go down & out like that or it would have court on the wheel.
Jules told me to direct the air toward the centre of his larger AP discs as they fan air that way them selves with better than standard vents. I assume the same would apply for normal discs.
From the other thread:
I fitted some flexible brake ducting hose running from them, through a suitability sized hole in the bulb replacement panel & tie wrapped it to the track rod arms aiming at the center of the disc. It worked so well there were wasps splatted on the inside of the wheel rims!
The problem I had was thinking I could just clamp the hose to the “D” shaped hole under the indicator, the wire re-enforcing was just too strong & springy So I made some fiberglass ducting that ran from both the holes connecting them both & it up. To make them; I cut up & bent some of that regular aluminum foil type air ducting to about the right shape to fit up behind the two holes, re-enforced it with masking tape, coved that in Clingfilm (so it didn’t stick to the fiberglass) then layed up fiberglass mat over them. Once hard I just ripped the foil out, then trimmed them so they fitted together & lined up correctly with the two holes in the body. When I was happy with the fit I used a small amount of P40 to stick them together while holding them in the correct place in the inner wing, easer said than done! I then found an aerosol that was just smaller than the ducting hose, put it into the newly joined end of my moldings (again covered in Clingfilm) & wrapped the whole lot in fiberglass mat. Once the aerosol can had been persuaded to come out I was left with a “Y” shaped ducting connector with a nice round end to fit the hose over. It fitted in so well it didn’t need any fixings it stays in place just by the hose being clamped into place by the tight fitting hole cut in the bulb changing panel. Also I didn’t want to fix it permanently as I wouldn’t be able to change the indicator bulb as it fits all round the back of the reflector. So I just sprayed the inside mat black & fitted it all up, you can hardly tell it’s there. That was three years ago now & they are still happily sitting there.
(Thankyou for the space for the pics uncle dave, sorry there's so many!)
>> Edited by luckyone on Thursday 16th March 17:34
jesfirth said:
Top man cheers for the pics
That is very similar to the system I put on my wedge with the exception of the banana shaped tube on the front. I hadn't thought of that. That will save me ages in trial and error.
Thanks again
Jes
No problem, I could try & explain what it looked like all day, but a picture makes it much clearer. Just wish I hadn’t accidentally deleted the ones I took when making the 'banana', but hopefully the pics will make the explanation clearer.
jesfirth said:
Thanks you have very small front brake pads judging by the wear on the disks?
Yes it looks that way, but they do cover the the whole of the discs, but the rust just seems to stay on the edges, not sure why. My BM is just the same, they were parked on the street for a good few years with salt spray getting thrown up on to them which may have something to do with it?
chevtrev said:
My God,no disrespect but I will never buy a UK car,is that normal condition for a 10+- car.
A 97 Chim I owned had factory fitted ducts,I am supprised it's been brought up now,I thought it would of been a factory option.
Whats the issue with it? Ok some grp cracks at the front, can damage bodywork on any car!
gazzab said:
My God,no disrespect but I will never buy a UK car,is that normal condition for a 10+- car.
A 97 Chim I owned had factory fitted ducts,I am supprised it's been brought up now,I thought it would of been a factory option.
Whats the issue with it? Ok some grp cracks at the front, can damage bodywork on any car!
No issue,i've just never seen so much rust and gunk,is this normal?
chevtrev said:
My God,no disrespect but I will never buy a UK car,is that normal condition for a 10+- car.
A 97 Chim I owned had factory fitted ducts,I am supprised it's been brought up now,I thought it would of been a factory option.
Whats the issue with it? Ok some grp cracks at the front, can damage bodywork on any car!
No issue,i've just never seen so much rust and gunk,is this normal?
What rust? There is some on the brake disks - so what ? happens to all cars. There are no chassis shots. So I can only assume the car is in good structural condition from what I have seen.
gazzab said:
My God,no disrespect but I will never buy a UK car,is that normal condition for a 10+- car.
A 97 Chim I owned had factory fitted ducts,I am supprised it's been brought up now,I thought it would of been a factory option.
Whats the issue with it? Ok some grp cracks at the front, can damage bodywork on any car!
No issue,i've just never seen so much rust and gunk,is this normal?
What rust? There is some on the brake disks - so what ? happens to all cars. There are no chassis shots. So I can only assume the car is in good structural condition from what I have seen.
Are you serious?
Heres a 97 showing original chassis,(not black gunk) and mild surface rust with a little road grime thrown in,not the surface rust your describing,and i'm seeing.
gazzab said:
My God,no disrespect but I will never buy a UK car,is that normal condition for a 10+- car.
A 97 Chim I owned had factory fitted ducts,I am supprised it's been brought up now,I thought it would of been a factory option.
Whats the issue with it? Ok some grp cracks at the front, can damage bodywork on any car!
No issue,i've just never seen so much rust and gunk,is this normal?
What rust? There is some on the brake disks - so what ? happens to all cars. There are no chassis shots. So I can only assume the car is in good structural condition from what I have seen.
Thanks for the defence gazzab!
They arn't marks on the body work, it's actually the Armorfend, I fitted it my self & I'll be the first to admit I didn't make a very good job of it
(the spots are rain, I got rather wet taking the pics) When I re-spay the car I’ll try some of that stone chip primer as I don’t like the edges of the Armorfend, although it certainly works very well in stopping chips.
It is solid, but I found last year when changing the diff mounts surface rust was starting to creep under the powder coating, so I scraped off all the loose stuff & fully waxoyled everything. It did look nice, but looks very mucky now as the dip stick came part way out on track & it sprayed oil all over the place, taking half of the waxoyl off in the process. I've just left it for the time being, figuring oil is as good as waxoyl…
I’m going to give it a full body off rebuild next winter, once I’ve built a garage it will fit in. Trouble is I find when I’m planning to rebuild a car I tend to stop taking such good care of it.
Thinking about it the ducts them selves will direct a constant salty spray directly on to the back of the discs on a wet motorway in the winter, maybe that’s why the inside of them is worse than the out 
Not going to stop driving it in winter though – it’s to much fun sliding all over the place
Not going to stop driving it in winter though – it’s to much fun sliding all over the place
the brakes dont even warm up on a sprint so the ducts will make no difference at all. They are for track days. I generally overheat the brakes within 5 laps so I use harder pads-ferrodos and castrol SRF 600 brake fluid. Hopefully the ducts should fully cure the overheating issues-they did on my 400SE.
Jesus Christ! 5 Laps. IS that fairly normal for other Cerbs? I use fluid which isn't as good as SRF, DS3000 pads, 264mm vented discs with Hi-Spec calipers on a 240bhp per tonne Dolomite Sprint racer and have yet to see them go off after a dozen laps of places like Brands Indy and Cadwell.
I was looking at Hi-Specs website for the brake fluid that I use and came across these
360mm, 32mm monster conversion apparently. Look quite nice. What's the normal disc size under 18's?
I was looking at Hi-Specs website for the brake fluid that I use and came across these
360mm, 32mm monster conversion apparently. Look quite nice. What's the normal disc size under 18's?
Having seen Jes take his then new to him cerb out on it’s first track day before he did anything to it, I can well believe it!
We have the 335mm discs from Jules, that bolt up to the 4.5s original bells. They are just slightly bigger than the standard 4.5 but cost about half the price, so I think the originals are about 330mm. The car came with 17s but I think the newer ones with 18s still had the same discs. The 4.2 came with one piece 294mm discs when new, I assume that didn’t change. The high spec kit looks very nice though…
Jes, have you still got the original 4.2 brakes?
We have the 335mm discs from Jules, that bolt up to the 4.5s original bells. They are just slightly bigger than the standard 4.5 but cost about half the price, so I think the originals are about 330mm. The car came with 17s but I think the newer ones with 18s still had the same discs. The 4.2 came with one piece 294mm discs when new, I assume that didn’t change. The high spec kit looks very nice though…
Jes, have you still got the original 4.2 brakes?
Jes, the ducts certainly make a difference, i've only lost my brakes once and that was at Oulton on a baking hot TVR day last year. I was going into Island bend flat out dabbed the brakes to scrub a little speed, Oh shit nothing there on the pedal dropped it down to third, back end locked up, sideways one way then the other 
prayed and it righted its self to go round shell nice and steady.
prayed and it righted its self to go round shell nice and steady.Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff