Dry sump tank location on LHD center shift car
Dry sump tank location on LHD center shift car
Author
Discussion

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Friday 17th March 2006
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Now that I can stop the car without flooding the carburator I've found that it needs a dry sump system. I can't see anywhere to mount one on the car, doesn't appear to be enough room.

Anyone been down this road before?

Thanks for your help,

Ken

jeff-texas

85 posts

259 months

Saturday 18th March 2006
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I was just talking to Builder (Scott) about this recently, and he says it should easily fit just behind the rear-bulkhead (or thereabouts), next to the engine, which makes sense to me. ...depends on whether you have some customized (non-Factory) stuff residing there already though, of course. Scott should be able to tell you more than me, though.

craig-ultima

243 posts

262 months

Sunday 19th March 2006
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I have both a dry sump system and an accusump, so there is quite enough room.

Check out my build site at www.craig-ultima.com which has alot of photos. Email me if you want specific info...

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Sunday 19th March 2006
quotequote all
Thanks for the link. My shift linkage goes through the space that is occupied by your dry sump tank. I have a G50/52 transaxle.

Great looking car!

Ken

ezakimak

1,871 posts

265 months

Sunday 19th March 2006
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i think the 1000hp spectrum 5 racing car in the states had a dry sump and centre rod shift

bigmack

553 posts

289 months

Tuesday 21st March 2006
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Hey there Ken! Glad to hear that your enjoying the car and have got that carb sorted out. I remember talking to you a long...long...time ago about that issue and it sounds like you've come up with a solution to the engine dying with a carb fitted. Glad to hear it.
I've basically decided that my car should be a track day car and I really don't care to drive it on the street(which I never did much anyway (6 years and only 600 miles on the engine)).
I too am looking at possibly going dry sump with the next engine that I build. Finding a spot for that dry sump tank can be difficult with both fuel tanks in the side pods. A lot of the older race cars ran the oil tank in one side pod and a fuel tank in the other. I believe Palmer's Sports had a special tank made up that was mounted up front in the steering box area somewhere. These cars have about a 39%/61% weight split and anything that can be placed up front like that will help. It would also be a LOT of work to say the least. The factory can chime in but I've seen the factory cars, that do have dry sump tanks, mounted next to the transaxle(left or right side) opposite of the gear linkage. I've not had a problem with losing oil pressure with my accusump and a wetsump yet, but then again I'm really not a good enough driver yet to push the envelope. You've been tracking cars for a long time.
By the way, I need to get you down to Texas again for a track day at Texas World Speedway in college station! You'd have a blast.
Cheers!
-Mack

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
The carb is absolutely bullet proof in hard stops if....you form a slosh tube with a high arch. Used a 3/8" fuel hose to connect the bowel vents together and cut a couple of vents in the top of the resulting arch.

I can slide the car to a stop on dry pavement and the motor keeps running.

I hope that I've remedied the oil problem by recharging the accusump. Thus far it's a go. If not I'll spring for one of those Moroso 6"diameter tanks and wait for 6 months for a custom dry sump pan that will fit an alloy dart block.

What ever you do, don't but a dart alloy block, standard small block chevrolet pans will not fit this motor.

If I drove this car to TX I would never be able to hear anything again.

Again, thanks for showing me your car, it looked great then and still does.

ken

bigmack

553 posts

289 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
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That's pretty interesting about the dart alloy block. I didn't know about that problem. I'm glad your having fun with the car though. Car looks great by the way!
Cheers!
-Mack

steve_d

13,802 posts

287 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
quotequote all
k wright said:
The carb is absolutely bullet proof in hard stops if....you form a slosh tube with a high arch. Used a 3/8" fuel hose to connect the bowel vents together and cut a couple of vents in the top of the resulting arch..............ken


How high is the arch.
I have fitted a similar tube but the arch limit is the available space under the air cleaner cover i.e. not much.

Steve

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
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I've got one of the 6" air filters. It goes all the way to the top.

It works great.

ken

steve_D

13,802 posts

287 months

Wednesday 22nd March 2006
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So I either get a bigger air cleaner or bring the pipe out through the top and back in again.

Steve

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Wednesday 29th March 2006
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It will be worth it. You won't believe how fast you car can stop with AP brakes.

arthurr

60 posts

271 months

Thursday 30th March 2006
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I have a Can Am and have a Peterson Fluids dry sump tank mounted on the drivers side behind the bulkhead about one foot. It is not even a very tight fit. If you need pictures let me know.

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Thursday 30th March 2006
quotequote all
I would appreciate photos. What capacity is the tank?

Thanks,

Ken

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Monday 11th December 2006
quotequote all
After a great deal of time on this subject I'm going with a dry sump system. The only place that I can put a tank on my car (LHD, center shift) is above the trans-axle. Talked with Weaver Brothers and Canton. Both say no problem as long as a ball valve is placed in the return line and it is closed while the car sits. Ferrari also placed the oil tank above the motor in the 355, this is why you have to start and run the motor and quickly after shut off check the oil level. Otherwise the "level" will read too low.

After tuning the carb up it is no longer the limiting factor on extreme stops, the wet sump is. I really hate to add all of this stuff to the car but it is easier than replacing the motor.

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Saturday 17th March 2007
quotequote all
Again continued work on this; going with the cable shifter made by California Motorsports. Called them up to make the arrangements and found out that Roger Brown from Powerhaus II is now working there.

ken

ultimacz

260 posts

284 months

Saturday 17th March 2007
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This is our dry sump tank location, on the driver side (LHD, center shift).

builder

1,225 posts

271 months

Sunday 18th March 2007
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k wright said:
Again continued work on this; going with the cable shifter made by California Motorsports. Called them up to make the arrangements and found out that Roger Brown from Powerhaus II is now working there.

ken
Since the LS7 has oil ports on the bottom right side, I will probably put the external oil system components over there too. It won't be too long now before I have a roller !!!!!!!!!!

Nice picture above!

I have the CMS cable shift, too. Ken, what shifter are you using? CMS said they are making one. I don't know if it's ready yet.

k wright

Original Poster:

1,039 posts

288 months

Sunday 18th March 2007
quotequote all
They are making a shifter for it now and expect to be done in the next 2-4 weeks. Is your transaxle in the car yet? If so what is your opinion of it (I know your still building)?

Thanks,

Ken


Edited by k wright on Sunday 18th March 21:45

san diego gtr

469 posts

236 months

Monday 19th March 2007
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I hope the CMS shifter is ready in 2-4 weeks. That would be great. I too am hoping to get one.
Paul