Fuel sender replacement
Discussion
I have just spent all morning trying to fit the replacement fuel sender as old one was kaput!
After drilling out holes in the plastic to match the five studs that take the nuts to secure it to the tank, I cut out a cork washer and ran a bead of instant gasket around the lip. Fitted it and carefully did up the little nuts so not to crack the plastic.
took it for a spin and it is seeping fuel out! Any ideas out there as to how to seal it properly?
Is there a gunk I can cover the lot in as I dont intend taking it off again if I dont have to.
I can get the plastic one off again to try reseal it, what do you all think?
After drilling out holes in the plastic to match the five studs that take the nuts to secure it to the tank, I cut out a cork washer and ran a bead of instant gasket around the lip. Fitted it and carefully did up the little nuts so not to crack the plastic.
took it for a spin and it is seeping fuel out! Any ideas out there as to how to seal it properly?
Is there a gunk I can cover the lot in as I dont intend taking it off again if I dont have to.
I can get the plastic one off again to try reseal it, what do you all think?
Phew, two hours work but worth it.
Here goes, Take old style sender out and clean up area around hole on fuel tank. Take care not to get any debris into tank, use a rag to stop up hole.
Take a template from the face of the old sender and use this to drill holes on new plastic one. Take care when drilling not to crack sender plastic.
TAKE CARE TO ENSURE HOLES IN RIGHT PLACE COMPARED TO TANK STUDS BEFORE DRILLING!
Use the same template to cut a new cork washer, again be carefull at this point. The flat surface on the new plastic sender is narrower than that on the metal one. Trim with sharp knife to ensure a good fit.
you may have to modify the new plastic sender to allow a nut to fit, its by one of the circular raised moldings on the sender.
Put a thin bead of sealant, of the petrol proof type around the tank and studs. Not too much as this will squeeze out under pressure into your tank!
put the cork washer in place and press in firmly. This is the point you can mop up any surplace gunk.
coat the face of the new sender with sealant, again not too much, and put into place.
Using washers under the nuts do up the nuts carefully, a little a time on each nut, in a diagonal pattern to avoid cracking plastic.
Now trial and error comes into it a bit. Over tight nuts will warp the plastic and make the cork washer raise up a bit. Bit more gunk may cure any leaks
Dont tighten up the nuts enough and it will seep.
IMPORTANT, let the sealant gunk go off before even moving the vehicle or putting petrol in. 24hrs should do it.
1/4 fill tank and test drive around a few corners to allow fuel to slosh up against the new sender. If it leaks then retighten or reseal etc. If you fill tank before this test it will leak out onto your garage floor!
If test drive with small amount of fuel works half fill and keep eye on it.
GOOD LUCK ITS A BITCH OF A JOB TO STOP LEAKS!
any questions just ask
Here goes, Take old style sender out and clean up area around hole on fuel tank. Take care not to get any debris into tank, use a rag to stop up hole.
Take a template from the face of the old sender and use this to drill holes on new plastic one. Take care when drilling not to crack sender plastic.
TAKE CARE TO ENSURE HOLES IN RIGHT PLACE COMPARED TO TANK STUDS BEFORE DRILLING!
Use the same template to cut a new cork washer, again be carefull at this point. The flat surface on the new plastic sender is narrower than that on the metal one. Trim with sharp knife to ensure a good fit.
you may have to modify the new plastic sender to allow a nut to fit, its by one of the circular raised moldings on the sender.
Put a thin bead of sealant, of the petrol proof type around the tank and studs. Not too much as this will squeeze out under pressure into your tank!
put the cork washer in place and press in firmly. This is the point you can mop up any surplace gunk.
coat the face of the new sender with sealant, again not too much, and put into place.
Using washers under the nuts do up the nuts carefully, a little a time on each nut, in a diagonal pattern to avoid cracking plastic.
Now trial and error comes into it a bit. Over tight nuts will warp the plastic and make the cork washer raise up a bit. Bit more gunk may cure any leaks
Dont tighten up the nuts enough and it will seep.
IMPORTANT, let the sealant gunk go off before even moving the vehicle or putting petrol in. 24hrs should do it.
1/4 fill tank and test drive around a few corners to allow fuel to slosh up against the new sender. If it leaks then retighten or reseal etc. If you fill tank before this test it will leak out onto your garage floor!
If test drive with small amount of fuel works half fill and keep eye on it.
GOOD LUCK ITS A BITCH OF A JOB TO STOP LEAKS!
any questions just ask
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