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I've noticed that when the car has been left for a while it blows some blue smoke when starting up (doesn't when driving or idling,etc.). I came to the conclusion that the valve stem seals will need doing at some point. I have since discovered that the guy who had the car before has been running it on 0-w40 fully synthetic oil. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't this oil far too thin for a rover V8? (The car has only done 57000 miles but is 18 years old)
I have another question about the fan. I drove the car from Norwich to London yesterday with no problems, however I would like to know what temp the fan is supposed to kick in at. I drove the car a few miles this morning and then left it idling for about 5 minutes. The temp gauge went up and stopped at midway point between the line and the red (probably about 100). I couldn't hear the fan come on and didn't want to leave the car running too long. Is there anyway of checking correct operation of the fan or should I just leave it running for a long time?
Apart from these probs everything else is great! Leaks a bit in the rain though!
I have another question about the fan. I drove the car from Norwich to London yesterday with no problems, however I would like to know what temp the fan is supposed to kick in at. I drove the car a few miles this morning and then left it idling for about 5 minutes. The temp gauge went up and stopped at midway point between the line and the red (probably about 100). I couldn't hear the fan come on and didn't want to leave the car running too long. Is there anyway of checking correct operation of the fan or should I just leave it running for a long time?
Apart from these probs everything else is great! Leaks a bit in the rain though!
Best cure for the fan is to fit a Kenlowe style thermostat, then you can set it where you like. Or there's the Modwise 2-stage controller that I know a few folk use...
I tend to use as close to 20W/50 as I can: IIRC there's a Castrol 15W/40 that's probably a good compromise. The trouble with oil (or rather owners) is that nobody EVER starts with a new engine and a certain oil, covers a certain mileage then strips the motor and measures wear, then starts again with another engine and another oil etc etc to see the difference: every owner merely claims theirs is best. All I can say is I'd rather perform more frequent oil changes with a less-expensive oil than string out a gallon of expensive oil for 10,000 miles or whatever.
TVR supposedly recommended Mobil 1 for the RV8 but based on whose research? Certainly wouldn't have been theirs, and I don't recall that LandRover insisted on it in their v8s...
I tend to use as close to 20W/50 as I can: IIRC there's a Castrol 15W/40 that's probably a good compromise. The trouble with oil (or rather owners) is that nobody EVER starts with a new engine and a certain oil, covers a certain mileage then strips the motor and measures wear, then starts again with another engine and another oil etc etc to see the difference: every owner merely claims theirs is best. All I can say is I'd rather perform more frequent oil changes with a less-expensive oil than string out a gallon of expensive oil for 10,000 miles or whatever.
TVR supposedly recommended Mobil 1 for the RV8 but based on whose research? Certainly wouldn't have been theirs, and I don't recall that LandRover insisted on it in their v8s...
Perfectly valid points re oil. Stick with the closest grade to original you can get.
Option A. Standard oil with regular intervals. VS Option B. Synthetic with extended intervals.
If you do enough mileage, cost difference per year is minimal, if you factor in price/liter, amount used and numbers of filters.
You can speculate which method gives best protection yourself... I recon it's six of one and half a dozen of the other.
BTW in my book if your Tiv leaks that's normal
Option A. Standard oil with regular intervals. VS Option B. Synthetic with extended intervals.
If you do enough mileage, cost difference per year is minimal, if you factor in price/liter, amount used and numbers of filters.
You can speculate which method gives best protection yourself... I recon it's six of one and half a dozen of the other.
BTW in my book if your Tiv leaks that's normal
It does sound like the valve stem seals. They get hard and worn with age (don't we all). And as you say, 0W 40 is too thin, although lots have used it. As Wedg1e says, you need something thicker: I personally use Motul 300V 15W 50, but there are other choices of similar viscocities and quality out there. As for the fan, it depends on the otter switch rating, and how accurate the temp gauge is. Cutting in somewhere after the 90 and before the red would be normal, but you could also wire in a manual overide switch and a "fan on" light - IIRC its detailed in the Bible.
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I'm going to change the oil to 20w-50 Castrol GTX next weekend. Do you think this will be suitable (and probably a bit less smokey due to it being not as thin as water!)?
Also, has anyone changed the oil without using a ramp. Is it easy to get to the sump plug by just jacking the car up? How much oil will I need to fill it up?
Cheers guys!
Also, has anyone changed the oil without using a ramp. Is it easy to get to the sump plug by just jacking the car up? How much oil will I need to fill it up?
Cheers guys!
borat said:
I'm going to change the oil to 20w-50 Castrol GTX next weekend. Do you think this will be suitable (and probably a bit less smokey due to it being not as thin as water!)?
Also, has anyone changed the oil without using a ramp. Is it easy to get to the sump plug by just jacking the car up? How much oil will I need to fill it up?
Cheers guys!
You'll be doing well if you can find GTX 20W/50: Halfords last had that round here about 3 years ago and nobody else stocks it locally. But yes, I'd use it if I could find it. GTX was the oil of choice for many years
You can change oil by jacking under the front x-member, ramps are difficult in a wedge because of the long front overhang (390SE especially!) but may make it a bit easier if you can do it.
IIRC you need a good 6 or even 6.5 L for a refill, depends whether you have an oil cooler.
oh yay, PH is working again!
I use Castrol GTX 20w50 in my Wedge. I buy it from that Cite Europe supermarket place in France, just the other side of the tunnel. Its dirt cheap in there, 9 euros for 5 litres I think from memory. Certainly not much more than that. I normally just buy 4 tubs at a time and use them during the year.
Edited to add:
When I need to jack my car up, I use a scissor jack on the chassis tube just behind the front wheel. I jack it up just enough to put the trolley jack in from the side and onto the main girder between the front wheels. Then I just remove the scissor jack. When I come to lower the car again, I put some 3 inch planks under the front wheels and drop the car onto them. This, coupled with the non-settled suspension means the jack just comes straight out. Roll the car off the planks and the jobs a good 'un!
>> Edited by digga951 on Sunday 26th March 00:45
I use Castrol GTX 20w50 in my Wedge. I buy it from that Cite Europe supermarket place in France, just the other side of the tunnel. Its dirt cheap in there, 9 euros for 5 litres I think from memory. Certainly not much more than that. I normally just buy 4 tubs at a time and use them during the year.
Edited to add:
When I need to jack my car up, I use a scissor jack on the chassis tube just behind the front wheel. I jack it up just enough to put the trolley jack in from the side and onto the main girder between the front wheels. Then I just remove the scissor jack. When I come to lower the car again, I put some 3 inch planks under the front wheels and drop the car onto them. This, coupled with the non-settled suspension means the jack just comes straight out. Roll the car off the planks and the jobs a good 'un!
>> Edited by digga951 on Sunday 26th March 00:45
Do you guys think this oil will be ok?
www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=82915278&contentId=6008753
Cheers for your help!
www.castrol.com/castrol/productdetailmin.do?categoryId=82915278&contentId=6008753
Cheers for your help!
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