How hard is it to change a chain?
Discussion
Changing the chain is fairly easy, but you will need something to break and rivet the chain - unless it's got a split link, in which case it's even easier (but no good on a bike with any power). You can get a usable splitter/riveter tool for about £50 (or borrow one) but avoid the cheap ones as they break or bend the first time you use them.
If you have access to certain tools (and are too mean to buy the splitter/riveter) then you can use a 4" grinder or a die-grinder to remove a link, (be careful not to cut yer bike!) in fact I think it's better to grind the top off the rivet first, even if you're using a splitter and then vice-grips or G-clamp with a ball bearing to spread the rivet - this is what I had to do last time I changed mine after I broke the cheap riveter
For the sprockets you will only normally need standard tools but a torque wrench & Loctite may be advisable for putting the new ones back on.
Not sure on the specifics of your bike, might be worth getting a manual....
If you have access to certain tools (and are too mean to buy the splitter/riveter) then you can use a 4" grinder or a die-grinder to remove a link, (be careful not to cut yer bike!) in fact I think it's better to grind the top off the rivet first, even if you're using a splitter and then vice-grips or G-clamp with a ball bearing to spread the rivet - this is what I had to do last time I changed mine after I broke the cheap riveter
For the sprockets you will only normally need standard tools but a torque wrench & Loctite may be advisable for putting the new ones back on.
Not sure on the specifics of your bike, might be worth getting a manual....
I asked this a while ago and ultimately it comes down to an angle grinder with a cutting wheel to take the chain off and a ball pein hammer to spread the pins of the new link and a lump hammer behind the link you are hitting... I was as dubious as you are probably now but it hasn't fallen off yet. The chain splitting and rivetting tools are useless - the 50 quid one I bought broke the splitter (hence the grinder) and the rivetter didn't give as good results as the hammer - just make sure that the link still articulates.
All risks you take are your own etc.
All risks you take are your own etc.
PS if changing front sprocket too, might be worth breaking the holding bolt b4 removing the chain. and careful on re-assembly as it might need loctite & specific torque values, can be a mess if it comes undone while riding :-0. Also some are made of cheese so unless u know what it needs dont just wang it up as tight as u can cos it'll probably strip .... ouch
Whilst the purity of F.Ms offered method may appeal the to those with both a surfit of time and garage equipment its a bit extreme for a home spanner twirler. Ie why do sumat in 1 hour when 5hrs will do :-? etc. A sturdy swing arm stand , angle grinder, chain riviter (with hammer backup) and a decent socket set/spanners/torque wrench and haynes manual will see u through provided understand the basics or spannering (if you havn't got all that then best stick in the local shop?). If as you suggest u struggled with ur tax disk then perhaps home spannering with a safty impact aint 4 u, not wanting to cause offence but if your life is at risk as a result of getting in wrong then u cant afford to get it wrong.
Ps having swapped many a chain in my time and having no care for my own safety I do want to warn that I'm struggling to remember one swap that didnt have one issue or another, ranging from holding bolt/sprocket stuck (fear of rounding/stripping) couldn't get rear wheel out/in (various from stuck spindle/brake pads). ps changing rears chains always seems to end up with at least one red/black knuckle tattoos from blood and chain grease mix.
Good luck.
Ps having swapped many a chain in my time and having no care for my own safety I do want to warn that I'm struggling to remember one swap that didnt have one issue or another, ranging from holding bolt/sprocket stuck (fear of rounding/stripping) couldn't get rear wheel out/in (various from stuck spindle/brake pads). ps changing rears chains always seems to end up with at least one red/black knuckle tattoos from blood and chain grease mix.
Good luck.
Always undo the pinion lock nut before splitting the chain, use the back brake to stop the pinion turning. Angle grind or file the old chain rivets to remove. Use a chain riveter to fit the new on after fitting your new cogs. It is essential to have enough movement in the link after it's riveted. Always use a new lock tab if there is one fitted and factory torque settings. If you have any doubt's, get it done professionally, the cost of getting it wrong is potentially very high!
Rawwr
As you seam keen to do your own maintenance, but short on confidence, does your local college not run bike maintenance classes? I've not done one myself but peolpe I know have and recon they are pretty good.
As for the chain if you're not sure I'd start on something less safety critical.
As you seam keen to do your own maintenance, but short on confidence, does your local college not run bike maintenance classes? I've not done one myself but peolpe I know have and recon they are pretty good.
As for the chain if you're not sure I'd start on something less safety critical.
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