Discussion
Well got the amplifier but still no joy in starting. (Now got a healthy spark) So looking at re wiring some of the wires going across engine.
Can some one look at there dissy / amp connector plug and tell me if they have 2 wires on the left terminal (white black) and 1 wire on the right teminal (white yellow)
She's now gone of in the Mundeo with my multimeter so can't check a lot else at mo
Can some one look at there dissy / amp connector plug and tell me if they have 2 wires on the left terminal (white black) and 1 wire on the right teminal (white yellow)
She's now gone of in the Mundeo with my multimeter so can't check a lot else at mo
Must admit not changed coil over yet, as thought if I had regular spark coming out of coil thej it would be ok ? Unless it is braking down as well under extra load of starting ?
Dam fiddled with the resistor pack earlier so probably caused that ot brakedown as well
Another thing to try tomorrow, as I'm sure I have both spare from the 4.0 l engine somewhere
Dam fiddled with the resistor pack earlier so probably caused that ot brakedown as well
Another thing to try tomorrow, as I'm sure I have both spare from the 4.0 l engine somewhere
dickymint said:
I'm still not convinced your injectors are fireing?
The spare ones are firing on the extra rail, as you can see the mist of fuel, but I have not physically removed the ones on the engine, and the plugs seem to be wet - well the 2 I took out
Then I played with the wires again
too dark and late to try now, and multimeter is back again
gsx600 said:
Must admit not changed coil over yet, as thought if I had regular spark coming out of coil thej it would be ok ? Unless it is braking down as well under extra load of starting ?
Dam fiddled with the resistor pack earlier so probably caused that ot brakedown as well
Another thing to try tomorrow, as I'm sure I have both spare from the 4.0 l engine somewhere
Clasabro's problem atth weekend was partly caused by an intermittnt feed to oneo fhe injector resistor banks: one of the brown. orange wired was dodgy so all four injectors on one nban k went off.
Sorry for lack of clarity but I'v'e had a fewGuinnes
Dchassis 33 said:How do you check that then? Measure how far the spark can jump giving you an indication of how strong(kV) the spark is? If the coil is on its last leggs then temperature will make a difference so you could measure maximum spark jump with a cold coil then heat it to 50c and see if it gets weaker. Alternatively you could just swap it for a known working/new one.
Just because you get a spark at atmospheric pressure, doesn't meant you'll get one in the cylinder with the coil is on its last legs.
Regards
Iain
Was not the coil, swapped that
Both injector banks firing
Was not the ecu as swapped that
Last test on my list that I made and required two people was to test the rotor arm, by putting coil lead to the centre of rotor arm, turn engine over (hence requires 2 bodies) if it still sparks then rotor arm is going to earth.
It sparked so after rumaging around for old rotor arm from last change put on and it ROARED into life.
Then it started raining and I went in for a much needed beer - well it was nearly 11.00 - am
So I must have blown the amp and the rotor arm when wiggling the wires that I have now rewired.
Cheers for all the input and no doubt on the next thread that says my engine won't start I'll say check the rotor arm, Dickie will say it's the fuel and Wedgie will baffle us all with science
>> Edited by gsx600 on Friday 7th April 14:38
Both injector banks firing
Was not the ecu as swapped that
Last test on my list that I made and required two people was to test the rotor arm, by putting coil lead to the centre of rotor arm, turn engine over (hence requires 2 bodies) if it still sparks then rotor arm is going to earth.
It sparked so after rumaging around for old rotor arm from last change put on and it ROARED into life.
Then it started raining and I went in for a much needed beer - well it was nearly 11.00 - am
So I must have blown the amp and the rotor arm when wiggling the wires that I have now rewired.
Cheers for all the input and no doubt on the next thread that says my engine won't start I'll say check the rotor arm, Dickie will say it's the fuel and Wedgie will baffle us all with science
>> Edited by gsx600 on Friday 7th April 14:38
leorest said:
How do you check that then? Measure how far the spark can jump giving you an indication of how strong(kV) the spark is? If the coil is on its last leggs then temperature will make a difference so you could measure maximum spark jump with a cold coil then heat it to 50c and see if it gets weaker. Alternatively you could just swap it for a known working/new one.
Theres a couple of ways, use those spark cap thingies that sit between the HT leads and the spark plugs www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9096 or use an HT lead triggered timing gun to see if you get a strobe.
Following on from the coil temperature point...If the car is running but cuts out when hot (not the case in hand but...) get it up to temperature to the point it starts to cut out then put a bag of frozen peas or such like over the coil to cool it, if the cutting out stops then the coil is dying!
Regards
Iain
leorest said:
Lots of useful diagnostic tips, tricks and techniques.
Glad you got it going. It will probably piss down all weekend now!
I got one of those spark testers , but never found them that good, seemed easier to hold from block and move out to see how far spark would travel - Normally up your arm
As for rain that's ok still as doing more work on it, then heading of for an MOT next week as it runs out in a month, so should give a bit of time to fix any bits
Hopefully then get it taxed for May when the rain will stop and the drought will begin and car will get nice and dusty so you wont be able to see the colour difference in my spraying
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