leaking exhaust manifold
Discussion
I have a leaking exhaust manifold on my Serp 500, it sounds like cylinder 5. Has anyone tackled a repair? If so I would appreciate any advice so that I have best chance of success, I am planning to do the repair it over easter as I can't afford to have her off the road as I use it daily to get to work. Is it really practical to repair just the one gasket? I have read the bible and it refers to needing a selection of 9/16 and 1/2 spanners, can anyone be more specific? Thanks for any help
You will need a selection of spanners as clearance to some of the bolts is somewhat awkward. Some you may not be able to get a ring spanner over some as there isn't enough clearance between bolt head and header pipe. Some you will need a long spanner for, some a short one. Sorry, can't be more specific than that, but as you get into the job you will realise that the greater your choice of weapon the better - and I choose my words carefully, it will turn into a battle!
It isn't a nice job, and it will take much longer than you expect. You might get some surprises, like on mine three bolts were not even finger tight. They can work loose over time.
You can get some mileage from undoing the engine mounts and jacking the engine up to get extra clearance - just don't undo both sides at once obviously! For the sake of your back get the car as high up as you can before starting, and be prepared to have to attack some of the bolts from the underside, so you are going to have to be able to get under the car anyway.
As for doing just one - I would as a precaution have a full set available anyway. You may find that some of the others will tear as you take the manifold off, and some may be on their way to blowing anyway, and the last thing you want is to get it all apart and then find you're a gasket short and no time to get to the dealers for another. Don't forget to check the face of the exhaust ports for damage, particularly if it's been blowing for a while; you may need to flatten them off before fitting new gaskets.
A seriously worthwhile mod is to replace the standard bolts with ARP ones, which some with a much smaller head (3/8 inch) for ease of removal at a later date. They also resist loosening over time. Not cheap though, about £30 a set.
It isn't a nice job, and it will take much longer than you expect. You might get some surprises, like on mine three bolts were not even finger tight. They can work loose over time.
You can get some mileage from undoing the engine mounts and jacking the engine up to get extra clearance - just don't undo both sides at once obviously! For the sake of your back get the car as high up as you can before starting, and be prepared to have to attack some of the bolts from the underside, so you are going to have to be able to get under the car anyway.
As for doing just one - I would as a precaution have a full set available anyway. You may find that some of the others will tear as you take the manifold off, and some may be on their way to blowing anyway, and the last thing you want is to get it all apart and then find you're a gasket short and no time to get to the dealers for another. Don't forget to check the face of the exhaust ports for damage, particularly if it's been blowing for a while; you may need to flatten them off before fitting new gaskets.
A seriously worthwhile mod is to replace the standard bolts with ARP ones, which some with a much smaller head (3/8 inch) for ease of removal at a later date. They also resist loosening over time. Not cheap though, about £30 a set.
Eddie
You could do a lot worse than to ring Ian at TorqueRVT in Middlewich 01606 831244 and he will listen to the motor, let you know how best to do what needs doing whether yourself or by him at the garage.
He can get busy, so if you want to wait, take your sarnies. But it's your local indy so get on down.
PS He's my local Indy and I'm in Crosby
You could do a lot worse than to ring Ian at TorqueRVT in Middlewich 01606 831244 and he will listen to the motor, let you know how best to do what needs doing whether yourself or by him at the garage.
He can get busy, so if you want to wait, take your sarnies. But it's your local indy so get on down.
PS He's my local Indy and I'm in Crosby
I didn't take off the exhaust but I have the ACT manifolds. Aside from some time, patience and DR Octopus arms it's not a difficult job. Just time consuming. ACT do good gaskets. Whilst the exhaust is off, it's probably worth tightening up the other side, or if you have the time, replacing the gasket.
Taking the Y piece off is a very quick job compared to taking the manifolds off. If it was me, I'd replace the gaskets on the side with the leak and leave well alone on the other side. The gaskets you want are the dual composite metal gaskets, also make sure the spring washers under the bolts are intact otherwise they will come loose again.
Thanks for replies. Sounds like I expected. It looks like the gasket and not the manifold, I'll take the whole nearside off and do a proper job. Ian at Middlewhich has done some sterling work on my Griff in the past but in this instance it is a matter of convenience and economics. So when the going gets tough the tough get going or something like that.
3/8 BSW is too big (0.6in AF) a 9/16 AF is sloppy fit (0.5625in AF) and a 14mm (0.56in AF)seems too tight or is it just that the bolt heads have a small amount of surface rust and 14mm is the correct size. As I said I don't want to get off on the wrong foot. Why does the bible refer to 9/16 and 1/2 in spanners? Also what is the meaning of life; answers on a postcard please.
eddie123 said:
Apache, do you mean 3/8 BS. Is spanner an S shape or banana shape obstruction spanner?
It's a proper 3/8" can't remember where but it was an S shape.
These might do as well if you can find em in AF
www.drapertools-online.com/b2c/b2cinddsp.pgm
GreenV8S said:
I find the only way I can get the Y piece jopints to seat properly is to tighten the joints as far as they will go, and then run the engine up and get the exhaust nice and hot, then tap both sides of the joint and it seems to drop into place.
Same here. Next time I do it, I think I'll leave the bolts loose into the heads to give a little play at the Y piece end. This might make it easier to bolt up the clamps. Then tighten the head bolts after.
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