Discussion
Does anybody know what causes the 'rods' to lock out?
Mine just turns and doesn't seem to lock, therefore they undo themselves, and before you know it up comes the bonnet.
I've looked at both sides of the handle and there doesn't seem to be anything that would enable it to lock in place.
Mine just turns and doesn't seem to lock, therefore they undo themselves, and before you know it up comes the bonnet.
I've looked at both sides of the handle and there doesn't seem to be anything that would enable it to lock in place.
Mark they're extented too far, the rods twist and extend, not sure the techy term, remove bay cover and tighten them towards the main pivot. unscrewing extends them i think. just have to get it right as too much and it wont hold the bonnet or other way round it wont let it lock.
Dean
Dean
dean_ratpac said:
Mark they're extented too far, the rods twist and extend, not sure the techy term, remove bay cover and tighten them towards the main pivot. unscrewing extends them i think. just have to get it right as too much and it wont hold the bonnet or other way round it wont let it lock.
Dean
So in other words, if the your bonnet is up, then turning the knob (yes i'm ignoring you Ash
) it just turns limit to limit with no click? I hope this makes sence.
I just fixed my rattling bonnet today, wound the white nylon cone, spike, call it what you will, on the end of the RHS rod a couple of turns anti clock wise to extend, then replaced rear engine bay cowling, closed the bonnet and tried locking it until the cone pushed far enough into the retainer (metal piece fastened onto bonnet with rubber grommet in centre) to hold it shut. Took two or three attempt but seems to be ok, when you have wound the cone out sufficiently tighten the lock nuts. When the knob under the dash is turned now there is a discernible click when the cone engages.
Bonnet does not lift or rattle at 80+ mph, though it does seem to bow in the middle due to the air pressure, so next job is make a chin spoiler.
Bonnet does not lift or rattle at 80+ mph, though it does seem to bow in the middle due to the air pressure, so next job is make a chin spoiler.
Mark,
I get no click .. and dont see how there could be as its a straight rotation ...
but I have added some rubber on the car section of the catch so when the bonnet is down the nylon push rod forces its way into the rubber grommet and is very tight rather than sliding loose and free ... my metal rod had broken on the thread just before the nylon end - so have chemical metalled it all back together ... I now have no rattles at 80mph but the whole thing is billowing with the pressure under it ... so must fit buds chin spoiler when the mini has cleared the pit!
Regards DAS
I get no click .. and dont see how there could be as its a straight rotation ...
but I have added some rubber on the car section of the catch so when the bonnet is down the nylon push rod forces its way into the rubber grommet and is very tight rather than sliding loose and free ... my metal rod had broken on the thread just before the nylon end - so have chemical metalled it all back together ... I now have no rattles at 80mph but the whole thing is billowing with the pressure under it ... so must fit buds chin spoiler when the mini has cleared the pit!
Regards DAS
Mine locks in the open and closed positions regardless of whether the bonnet is up or down.
At the end of the rotation there is a very positive click. When released there is some resistance before it turns freely (sp?).
Your welcome to try my knob to see how it feels different to yours.
that goes for everyone!! 
Bud
At the end of the rotation there is a very positive click. When released there is some resistance before it turns freely (sp?).
Your welcome to try my knob to see how it feels different to yours.
that goes for everyone!! Bud
Ok, sorry to dissapoint anyone, but I will not be playing with anybody else's nobs because i've fixed mine.
The handle now locks open and shut regardless of whether the bonnet is open or closed.
The problem lies not in the engine bay, but with the handle under the dash.
There is a ballbearing mechanism similar to that which holds a socket on to the wrench which causes the handle to lock in place. This also keeps the rods pushed onto the bonnet and secures the corners of the bonnet better.
If anyone wants I can explain in more detail with some pics.
David it sounds like you have the same problem I did, but to a lesser extent. Its your gromets that are holding the rods in place, it should click and therefore lock.
The handle now locks open and shut regardless of whether the bonnet is open or closed.
The problem lies not in the engine bay, but with the handle under the dash.
There is a ballbearing mechanism similar to that which holds a socket on to the wrench which causes the handle to lock in place. This also keeps the rods pushed onto the bonnet and secures the corners of the bonnet better.
If anyone wants I can explain in more detail with some pics.
David it sounds like you have the same problem I did, but to a lesser extent. Its your gromets that are holding the rods in place, it should click and therefore lock.
IF IT WASNT COLD AND WET i WOULD GO OUT AND RE LOOK ... MINE UNWINDING ITSELF HAS NEVER BEEN A PROBLEM
MY PROBLEM HAS ALWAYS BEEN POOR FITTING NYLON INTO GROMMITS AND iVE NEVER NOTICED IT LOCKING AS SUCH...
MINES OK FOR NOW SO AM GOING TO LEAVE BE UNTIL ITS A PROBLEM AGAIN (BURIES HEAD IN SAND!)
GLAD YOU WORKED OUT THE MECHANISM INSIDE CAR AS I REALISED THERES NOTHING TO LOCK IT IN PLACE UNDER THE BONNET!
DAS
MY PROBLEM HAS ALWAYS BEEN POOR FITTING NYLON INTO GROMMITS AND iVE NEVER NOTICED IT LOCKING AS SUCH...
MINES OK FOR NOW SO AM GOING TO LEAVE BE UNTIL ITS A PROBLEM AGAIN (BURIES HEAD IN SAND!)
GLAD YOU WORKED OUT THE MECHANISM INSIDE CAR AS I REALISED THERES NOTHING TO LOCK IT IN PLACE UNDER THE BONNET!
DAS
Mark this is astounding ! I suffer the very same problems as you and just as I'm about to type up my solution you do the same thing. It was the same with the under-dash heater ducts.
Thanks for describing the ball-bearing rig. I couldn't actually get to see where that all takes place. The only problem I have with mine now is that if I 'click' it in the fully open position, it takes Arnie Schwarz to 'click' it back again.
Dislodged Balbie I expect !
.... but photos never go amiss ???
Do you (or anyone) have probs getting the corners of the bonnet down in order to lock it without the help opf two interested but laughing passers-by ?
Thanks,
PJ
Thanks for describing the ball-bearing rig. I couldn't actually get to see where that all takes place. The only problem I have with mine now is that if I 'click' it in the fully open position, it takes Arnie Schwarz to 'click' it back again.
Dislodged Balbie I expect !
.... but photos never go amiss ???
Do you (or anyone) have probs getting the corners of the bonnet down in order to lock it without the help opf two interested but laughing passers-by ?
Thanks,
PJ
Here is a pic of the bonnet lock mechanism under the dash, with the handle removed...
1 = Shaft. - Goes through bulkhead, to 'rods' in engine bay.
2 = Collar. - Contains 2 locator grooves for locking
3 = Allen key bolt. - Holds in place spring and ballbearing.
What should happen is... As you turn the handle, the ballbearing (BB) at the end of 3 should locate into the grooves in the collar causing it to lock. There are two grooves one for open and one for shut.
It should be just a case of loosening 3 being careful not to drop the BB and spring. Also loosen the bolt holding the collar in place.
Reassemble the bits making sure that the collar is pushed all the way home (taking note that the grooves are in the right position), and that the shaft is turned to the lock shut position. Now tighten the allen key 3 with spring and BB, making sure the BB locates in the groove in the collar. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN you only need a slight pressure, too much and you wont be able to turn the handle. Tighten the lock bolt in the collar and replace handle. Check operation, with bonnet up.
You can adjust the pressure applied to the bonnet by adjusting the rods under the bonnet, I would sudjust screwing the white nylon end bits all the way home, and make any adjustments at the other end of the rod (where they meet shaft 1) using a 10mm spanner.
1 = Shaft. - Goes through bulkhead, to 'rods' in engine bay.
2 = Collar. - Contains 2 locator grooves for locking
3 = Allen key bolt. - Holds in place spring and ballbearing.
What should happen is... As you turn the handle, the ballbearing (BB) at the end of 3 should locate into the grooves in the collar causing it to lock. There are two grooves one for open and one for shut.
It should be just a case of loosening 3 being careful not to drop the BB and spring. Also loosen the bolt holding the collar in place.
Reassemble the bits making sure that the collar is pushed all the way home (taking note that the grooves are in the right position), and that the shaft is turned to the lock shut position. Now tighten the allen key 3 with spring and BB, making sure the BB locates in the groove in the collar. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN you only need a slight pressure, too much and you wont be able to turn the handle. Tighten the lock bolt in the collar and replace handle. Check operation, with bonnet up.
You can adjust the pressure applied to the bonnet by adjusting the rods under the bonnet, I would sudjust screwing the white nylon end bits all the way home, and make any adjustments at the other end of the rod (where they meet shaft 1) using a 10mm spanner.
Nice phot .. added to my DIY haynes manual ...
Im impressed by your flexibility ... what with this and the
air sealing of your underdash ... a testiment to Yoga...
Still havnt got round to seeing if mine does or doesnt have the resistance at the end of travel cos its down and not flapping!
Question though ... when the handle and collar are removed would the mechanism from inside the engine bay then pull free as my ally rods are cold welded - ie no adjustment possible and was going to replace them ???...
See ya at the next one ... DAS
Im impressed by your flexibility ... what with this and the
air sealing of your underdash ... a testiment to Yoga...
Still havnt got round to seeing if mine does or doesnt have the resistance at the end of travel cos its down and not flapping!
Question though ... when the handle and collar are removed would the mechanism from inside the engine bay then pull free as my ally rods are cold welded - ie no adjustment possible and was going to replace them ???...
See ya at the next one ... DAS
Thanks Dave.
As far as I know it will just pull through to the engine side. But once the shaft is pulled through '4' on the pic, the Ball Bearing will almost certainly drop out so make sure you get it first, so you dont lose it.
However in the engine bay the rods are attached to the adjusters, which in your case are welded together, and then to a wheel with 10mm nuts. So it may not be necassary to remove the shaft.
Also so long as the rods are equal length (proportionally speaking) you should be able to make any adjustments via the collar etc from under the dash. Just rotate the shaft before tightening the collar.
Hope this helps.
As far as I know it will just pull through to the engine side. But once the shaft is pulled through '4' on the pic, the Ball Bearing will almost certainly drop out so make sure you get it first, so you dont lose it.
However in the engine bay the rods are attached to the adjusters, which in your case are welded together, and then to a wheel with 10mm nuts. So it may not be necassary to remove the shaft.
Also so long as the rods are equal length (proportionally speaking) you should be able to make any adjustments via the collar etc from under the dash. Just rotate the shaft before tightening the collar.
Hope this helps.
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