Chassis coating flaking, what to do?
Discussion
Having just washed my car, again!!!! I noticed that on the driver's side front, behind the wheel, the chassis can be seen. I have noticed a small patch of rust and flaking of the coating.
Now, can anyone tell me how serious this is, and if it's possible if I can repair it myself?
Other than that, how much would it cost, approximatly to have the chassis re-treated?
Still starts first time though!!
Now, can anyone tell me how serious this is, and if it's possible if I can repair it myself?
Other than that, how much would it cost, approximatly to have the chassis re-treated?
Still starts first time though!!
Chris, been there and done it. Make sure the car is clean and dry and it's a warm day and not raining. Gain access to the offending areas and remove as much loose flaky stuff as you can with whatever implements you have. Finish with a stiff wire brush, then wipe down with a rag. Apply liberal coat of Hammerite (I use silver smooth finish on my Chim) and wait a short while for it to dry. Then spray warm Waxoyl over everything in sight, trying not to get too much on the windscreen, brake discs and exhaust. Inspect anually and repeat as necessary.
I've written a whole bunch on this before, which you'll find following apache's tip. I still suffer from the nightmares.
Just to expand on a point from the dodger. Hammerite recommend that you wait 6 weeks between applying Hammerite and Waxoyl. Apparently the Waxoyl screws around with the Hammerite curing process and can cause it to craze and lose adhesion.
Whilst undoubtedly technically true, I suspect this may be an arse-covering exercise more at home in the laboratory than in the real world, but worth bearing in mind nonetheless.
Just to expand on a point from the dodger. Hammerite recommend that you wait 6 weeks between applying Hammerite and Waxoyl. Apparently the Waxoyl screws around with the Hammerite curing process and can cause it to craze and lose adhesion.
Whilst undoubtedly technically true, I suspect this may be an arse-covering exercise more at home in the laboratory than in the real world, but worth bearing in mind nonetheless.
What beljames says may be true, but I didn't notice any ill-effects after 5 years on my wedge - just gave it a drop more waxoyl when required. It's probably the CYA action. The most difficult part was preparation (allway is, and is always the most important). I couldn't get a quote from any garage to do the job. Most thought I wanted it steam -cleaned underneath !!!
NEVER point a high pressure hose under a glass fibre car.
Fortunately I had a pal with access to a 4-post ramp and usual garage equipment including a spray gun for the waxoyl
NEVER point a high pressure hose under a glass fibre car.
Fortunately I had a pal with access to a 4-post ramp and usual garage equipment including a spray gun for the waxoyl
Many thanks for the very constructive (as always) replies guys. I shall not worry about the chassis 'till the summer, when I will have a go at cleaning it up, and waxoiling it. We are about to have our drive done, I was toying with the idea of having a trench it it, so I can get under the car!!!! lol
BB, am very sorry to hear about your lovely Griff spinning yesterday, that is gutting, I do hope you get back on the road burbling ASAP
Chris
BB, am very sorry to hear about your lovely Griff spinning yesterday, that is gutting, I do hope you get back on the road burbling ASAP
Chris
I've used the POR15 (available from Frosts, but they don't make it, just sell it!). Time will tell of course, but I rate it over hammerite.
My experience of Hammerite is it is brittle and can lack adhesion; ping it with a hammer and a lump will fall off. POR15 is tough as hell, and sticks like you would not beleive. Lets just say that once the tin is opened you need a film of plastic betwixt lid and tin when you reseal the tin ... otherwise you will need a tin opener to open the bottom of the tin next time. You won't be getting the lid off anyways.
Pinging a POR15 coated item with a hammer needless to say will not result in a lump falling off. You are more likely to dent the chassis. Honestly.
I left some in a plastic container after use, and after a few days it turned into a solid disk of resin like material which you could hammer the crap out of without making an impact. This also demonstrated why it doesn't drop off when pinged - it was slightly flexible. Like I said its TOUGH - not HARD. Mutually exclusive properties.
I used metal primer from the same line to prep my chassis. It etches the metal surface, and really does inhibit rust formation and provide a great key for the POR15. I was doing my chassis at weekends, and stripped and prepped sections one weekend for painting the next. Untreated sections I missed were apparent after a week as they were orange with surface rust. Treated sections were satifyingly rust free.
A caution re the POR15 - it sticks to flesh even more tenaciously. Wear latex gloves.
As a final measure, a liberal coating of Waxoyl Underseal should ensure maximum protection for the chassis.
Reassuring, but ultimately pointless as the chassis will probably rot from the inside out due to pinholes in the welded joints. I haven't been brave enough to drill into the chassis members and treat them like chassis box sections and fill them with waxoyl. Hopefully the POR15 was applied thickly enough to cover such holes, but you never know.
My experience of Hammerite is it is brittle and can lack adhesion; ping it with a hammer and a lump will fall off. POR15 is tough as hell, and sticks like you would not beleive. Lets just say that once the tin is opened you need a film of plastic betwixt lid and tin when you reseal the tin ... otherwise you will need a tin opener to open the bottom of the tin next time. You won't be getting the lid off anyways.
Pinging a POR15 coated item with a hammer needless to say will not result in a lump falling off. You are more likely to dent the chassis. Honestly.
I left some in a plastic container after use, and after a few days it turned into a solid disk of resin like material which you could hammer the crap out of without making an impact. This also demonstrated why it doesn't drop off when pinged - it was slightly flexible. Like I said its TOUGH - not HARD. Mutually exclusive properties.
I used metal primer from the same line to prep my chassis. It etches the metal surface, and really does inhibit rust formation and provide a great key for the POR15. I was doing my chassis at weekends, and stripped and prepped sections one weekend for painting the next. Untreated sections I missed were apparent after a week as they were orange with surface rust. Treated sections were satifyingly rust free.
A caution re the POR15 - it sticks to flesh even more tenaciously. Wear latex gloves.
As a final measure, a liberal coating of Waxoyl Underseal should ensure maximum protection for the chassis.
Reassuring, but ultimately pointless as the chassis will probably rot from the inside out due to pinholes in the welded joints. I haven't been brave enough to drill into the chassis members and treat them like chassis box sections and fill them with waxoyl. Hopefully the POR15 was applied thickly enough to cover such holes, but you never know.
taylormj4 said: Hey Dodger,
why shouldn't you spray high pressure hoses at the underside of the car then?
I was thinking of doing this soon (jet wash) to clean off the road salt that might have accumulated?
Cheers,
Matt
Matt, I can't remember who told me now - somebody with TVR experience. The assembly of the body flanges isn't designed to withstand high water pressure in that direction. I think. Maybe somebody can confirm? I would be careful with a jet-spray but it just depends on the pressure and where you point it - be careful.
Dodger
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