Wheels, self refurb, is it possible, or a no no

[warmfuzzies]

Simple questions wanting simple answers.

I have a set of 18" GT3? wheels I'm going to be putting on the 964, offsets are correct BTW.

Now they have lacquer problems on the rims, not too bad, but enough to contemplate refurbing them.

www.964kevin.dsl.pipex.com/Wheels/wheels%20014.jpg

Question is what holds the inner to the outer? apart from the obvious 20 bolts....Is there any keying? or other mechanical fit? or just 20 bolts, and does anyone know where the torque values and replacement bolts can be sourced.

And if there are just 20 bolts, because there's no air tight seal, then refurbing them myself is a distinct likelihood, would polished rims, lacquered rims, or painted wheel colour rims look best.


TIA

Kevin.

[computamedic]

Kevin,

Our local PCGB Region had a club night a few months ago with a talk by someone from a Northampton wheel refurbisher on this subject. Apparently refurbishing split rims is not for the feint hearted. I suspect there is a lot of "myths" on the subject - stories of the bolts MUST be replaced (at about £10 each), suggestions that all 20 bolts MUST be tightened at the same time (special jigs used in the factory). It's also apparently essential that the mating surfaces be absolutely clean and free of paint and lacquer - they must have metal to metal contact. That, in itself, suggests a good source of potential future problems since there will always be a path for moisture to get under the paint.

I know all the professional refurbishers charge a fortune to refurb split rims, so there must be some truth to some of the myths. And, from what I remember of the talk, a lot of refurbishers don't do such a great job on them anyway.

I can't remember the name of the company in Northampton (I'm sure I could get it if you need it) but I know Pristine in Woburn Sands (Tel: [phone]) are well respected, but you're probably looking at £100 - £120 per wheel at a guess.

I like the wheels, BTW!!

Regards

Dave

[warmfuzzies]

Thanks Dave,

Answers some questions, but I'd still like to know if this is a DIY task, or if there are serious reasons why I should leave it to the pro's and what they do to justify the cost.

kevin

[The Undertaker]

Having been through this process myself I can add the following:

You will break some of the bolts. I think these can be bought from Jasmine motorsport for a couple of £ each if I remember correctly. They are a 7mm torx (?) nut and not easy to find from fastener suppliers.If you struggle to get the bolts find a scrap wheel at a breakers for £20 or so. You may be lucky and have none of them snap but I'd advise sourcing some spares as a precaution first as I had 4 break from 80 removed.
The rims of your wheels can be polished to a high standard finish and there is now a lacquer you can use to keep them in good condition for a while at least.
If you are competent at flatting down the rims and doing the requisite polishing afterwards have a go. I had mine done by a friend with his own bodyshop as a favour but they usually cost around £50-100 a corner to refurb.
Once done properly they will last a while before the dreaded water attacks them again.
Hope this helps, Mark

[gfreeman]

A PCGB member has painted his Mk1 wheels. Unbolted the centre and painted them with engine enamel but said he had used hammerite smooth on other projects.... on my set of BBS wheels some of the bolts were loose and I was advised by BBS to tighten them to 16 - 18lbft. so where this special tightening stuff comes from I don't know....

I quote the PCGB member...

The wheels are only a 2 piece set up, which is the centers, and the entire rim. The wheels do not split at the rim like that so no need to worry about tyres loosing pressure etc.
I will be honest in that I did not torque them to any set pressure, however I did them up as you would a cylinder head diagonally opposite each other to ensure they went in flat but to be honest that's only common sense anyway, and then each one a little bit each time till they were tight, but not so tight as to risk snaping the bolts.
I used locktight on them and will monitor them for a few weeks......

[warmfuzzies]

Thanks guys, this has given me enough confidence to tackle it myself.

Mark thanks, I've enough time to flatten myself so I'll give it a shot, thanks for the Jasmine info.

Tim, if you could find out from the PCGB member how he gets on I'd be grateful.

Thanks all.

Kevin.

>> Edited by warmfuzzies on Monday 17th April 10:44

[richardb.jones]

Hi,

Bolts are not 7mm Torx, they are 8mm Spline bolts (look similiar at first glance but they are different) - the insert is also very shallow and you're liable to strip the bolt head if you don't use a spline bit.

Good luck with your wheels !

Richard.

[warmfuzzies]

Thanks Richard,

One of the wheels is now in bits.

Any ideas apart from Jasmine where I can get the replacement bolts, I'd like a few to hand.....just in case.

TIA

kevin.

[cuneus]

I can supply stainlees bolts and the tools PM me if you wish

(and no we are not talking 2 quid a bolt!)

[Big 968 Dave]

See the link for some split rim bolts....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Speedline-BBS-O

PS im nothing to do with PWS,, just saw the post + the add + put them together....

[ultra violent]

Those bolts look pants compared to the speedline ones. Plus they are way over priced. I think I got offered at 1.3Euros per bolt....

[warmfuzzies]

Thanks guys, the PWS are for three piece, I needed the bolts for two piece, they are somewhat different. Though thanks anyway.

I have now had contact back from Jasmine and Simon at Porsc-apart so have the couple of bolts I required, for about £2ea with tax and del.

They are torqued to 15ft/lb and loctited in place, just for the record.

thanks



Kevin.