lens speed and maual vs auto.
Discussion
I was shooting in the woods today in landscape mode, and at one point the camera could only manage 13th of a second shutter speed using my 3.5 - 5.6 kit lens.
My question is, had I been using an F2.8 lens with the same settings, what would the shutter speed have been? I didnt even think to adjust the ISO.
I shot 100 photos, and didnt come away with a single one I was even remotely happy with, and found the auto modes frustrating especially AF (on its standard "focus whatever is closest" setting) and it was equally frustrating not knowing how to control the exposure of foreground subjects (trees!) as the camera sometimes focused on exposing the sky instead, leaving a rather dark and murky foreground.
I think I need to start learning the manual settings right away if Im to gain any measure of control. I assume everyone here shoots manual most of the time?
>> Edited by UKBob on Monday 17th April 18:37
My question is, had I been using an F2.8 lens with the same settings, what would the shutter speed have been? I didnt even think to adjust the ISO.
I shot 100 photos, and didnt come away with a single one I was even remotely happy with, and found the auto modes frustrating especially AF (on its standard "focus whatever is closest" setting) and it was equally frustrating not knowing how to control the exposure of foreground subjects (trees!) as the camera sometimes focused on exposing the sky instead, leaving a rather dark and murky foreground.
I think I need to start learning the manual settings right away if Im to gain any measure of control. I assume everyone here shoots manual most of the time?
>> Edited by UKBob on Monday 17th April 18:37
OK, lets go through these.
If your lens was at F2.8 instead of f4 then your shutter would have been 1 stop quicker (1/30s). If it was f2.8 instead of f5.6 then it would be 2 stops (1/60s).
Re focusing and metering, look in the manual about how to select the centre focal point (press the button on top right back next to '*' and rotate the wheel next to the shutter botton until just the centre red box is illuminated in the viewfinder) - I ALWAYS use this, rarely needing to select another point unless for a very special shot and even more rarely selecting all for some tricky AI servo shots.
Select "ONE SHOT" as your focusing method (again, press the button marked 'AF" and rotate the front wheel until "ONE SHOT" is displayed on the LCD).
Now point the centre box at what you want in focus, half-hold the shutter botton to lock focus and keep it half held - then re-compose and fully depress the shutter.
If you are using evaluative metering then you don't need to use the '*' button as exposure is locked along with focus when you half press the shutter button.
If you want to meter lock for exposure when in partial, centre-weighted or spot then point the centre focus point at what you want to meter for and then press the '*' button on the top back right near where your right thumb should rest - this will lock the exposure allowing you to recompose the shot.
My usual method of shooting when 'on the hoof' is to point at what I want to be in focus, half hold shutter button to lock focus, re-compose then press shutter. (I usually use evaluative)
When out and about I tend to live in 'Av' (aperture priority) giving me control over depth of field while keeping and eye on the shutter speed to watch for it going too low and upping the ISO if necessary. Also use exposure compensation to deal with challenging metering environments and keeping an eye on the histogram.
If shooting sports, such as motorsports, then I tend to exist in a world of AI Servo and 'Tv' (shutter priority) locking the speed at anything from 1/60 to 1/250 depending on subject (but when doing this I sometimes use customer function 4.3 to enable me to use the '*' button to track focus but get exposure right at the point of firing, but that is a different story!!!)
The only time I really ever use Manual mode is when using flash, either in studios or on-camera.
Sounds to me like you need to book yourself on one of the courses at www.experience-seminars.co.uk (I have no connection with them, but have heard very good things about them and they are the leading guys on specialised EOS camera courses.)
Also get yourself a subscription to EOS Magazine (www.eos-magazine.com) - fantastic mag with excellent technique sections, a veritable font of knowledge and the one mag I keep back copies of (In fact the April-June 2006 issue has a whole section on CF 4.)
>> Edited by Bee_Jay on Monday 17th April 19:04
>> Edited by Bee_Jay on Monday 17th April 19:07
If your lens was at F2.8 instead of f4 then your shutter would have been 1 stop quicker (1/30s). If it was f2.8 instead of f5.6 then it would be 2 stops (1/60s).
Re focusing and metering, look in the manual about how to select the centre focal point (press the button on top right back next to '*' and rotate the wheel next to the shutter botton until just the centre red box is illuminated in the viewfinder) - I ALWAYS use this, rarely needing to select another point unless for a very special shot and even more rarely selecting all for some tricky AI servo shots.
Select "ONE SHOT" as your focusing method (again, press the button marked 'AF" and rotate the front wheel until "ONE SHOT" is displayed on the LCD).
Now point the centre box at what you want in focus, half-hold the shutter botton to lock focus and keep it half held - then re-compose and fully depress the shutter.
If you are using evaluative metering then you don't need to use the '*' button as exposure is locked along with focus when you half press the shutter button.
If you want to meter lock for exposure when in partial, centre-weighted or spot then point the centre focus point at what you want to meter for and then press the '*' button on the top back right near where your right thumb should rest - this will lock the exposure allowing you to recompose the shot.
My usual method of shooting when 'on the hoof' is to point at what I want to be in focus, half hold shutter button to lock focus, re-compose then press shutter. (I usually use evaluative)
When out and about I tend to live in 'Av' (aperture priority) giving me control over depth of field while keeping and eye on the shutter speed to watch for it going too low and upping the ISO if necessary. Also use exposure compensation to deal with challenging metering environments and keeping an eye on the histogram.
If shooting sports, such as motorsports, then I tend to exist in a world of AI Servo and 'Tv' (shutter priority) locking the speed at anything from 1/60 to 1/250 depending on subject (but when doing this I sometimes use customer function 4.3 to enable me to use the '*' button to track focus but get exposure right at the point of firing, but that is a different story!!!)
The only time I really ever use Manual mode is when using flash, either in studios or on-camera.
Sounds to me like you need to book yourself on one of the courses at www.experience-seminars.co.uk (I have no connection with them, but have heard very good things about them and they are the leading guys on specialised EOS camera courses.)
Also get yourself a subscription to EOS Magazine (www.eos-magazine.com) - fantastic mag with excellent technique sections, a veritable font of knowledge and the one mag I keep back copies of (In fact the April-June 2006 issue has a whole section on CF 4.)
>> Edited by Bee_Jay on Monday 17th April 19:04
>> Edited by Bee_Jay on Monday 17th April 19:07
Have a play on here:
www.photonhead.com/simcam/shutteraperture.php
www.photonhead.com/simcam/shutteraperture.php
Bob...I'm a fool so I've developed a foolproof method...
Take a shot in Av or Tv and it's too dark/light. Right...set camera to M and change settings to what they were in the original shot. Look at the photo/histogram and take a guess at how much "out" it was. Decide if you want to open/close the apature or slow/speed up the shutter speed...adjust and shoot again. Keep repeating (either letting more or less light in)untill you have a perfect image. Delete all the crap shots...foolproof,even for a fool like me
Martin.
Take a shot in Av or Tv and it's too dark/light. Right...set camera to M and change settings to what they were in the original shot. Look at the photo/histogram and take a guess at how much "out" it was. Decide if you want to open/close the apature or slow/speed up the shutter speed...adjust and shoot again. Keep repeating (either letting more or less light in)untill you have a perfect image. Delete all the crap shots...foolproof,even for a fool like me
Martin.
V6GTO said:
Bob...I'm a fool so I've developed a foolproof method...
Take a shot in Av or Tv and it's too dark/light. Right...set camera to M and change settings to what they were in the original shot. Look at the photo/histogram and take a guess at how much "out" it was. Decide if you want to open/close the apature or slow/speed up the shutter speed...adjust and shoot again. Keep repeating (either letting more or less light in)untill you have a perfect image. Delete all the crap shots...foolproof,even for a fool like me
Martin.
Or do the same with exposure comp...
I shoot on Av most of the time, as I'm more intrested in the right apature than shutter speed, will switch to shutter priority or full manual if conditions/shot need it.
I typicaly only use the center focus point. Theres two conditions I dont.
Fast moving focus point non center. i.e. surfing when I want the surfer bottom right or whatever.
Depth of field more, 350d setting it tries a DOF to get all focus points in focus, only used it a few times realy.
Go by the focal length rule.
if your shooting at 50mm, you need 1/50th or so to hand hold, not enough then open the apatgure, or change the ISO. ISO 800-1600 can be usable from dSLR's.
I typicaly only use the center focus point. Theres two conditions I dont.
Fast moving focus point non center. i.e. surfing when I want the surfer bottom right or whatever.
Depth of field more, 350d setting it tries a DOF to get all focus points in focus, only used it a few times realy.
Go by the focal length rule.
if your shooting at 50mm, you need 1/50th or so to hand hold, not enough then open the apatgure, or change the ISO. ISO 800-1600 can be usable from dSLR's.
UKBob said:
I was shooting in the woods today in landscape mode, and at one point the camera could only manage 13th of a second shutter speed using my 3.5 - 5.6 kit lens.
My question is, had I been using an F2.8 lens with the same settings, what would the shutter speed have been? I didnt even think to adjust the ISO.
I am a bit of a beginner myself, but I bought myself a Canon fixed focal 50mm 1.8 lens (Cheap, 120 € or so), and it is great in low light, no problem of shutter speed anymore.
In fact it is great indoors, I rarely use the flash any more and gives the best black and white shots.
Well worth having, only if I had to do it again I would get less than 50mm, as I forgot about the 1.5 factor with digital, so really it is a 75mm, not ideal indoors.
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