Wedge Weekend Westowation

[adam quantrill]

Well I managed to install half of the compliance bushes - the tricky half at the back - plus Steve Heath's drop link upgrade. One side went on easily, the other side took an hour of sanding on the end of the ARB to get the rose joint to slide on. Just waiting for RT's compliance bush set to complete the job (hint hint). Then I can get my MOT.

I must say it's a luxury working on the 400SX - after years of working with siezed and rusted bolts this thing comes apart and goes back together like a new car.

[deetes]

I'm just doing the same job. Couldn't get the split pins out of the ARB. I'll have to punch / drill out the remains.

[adam quantrill]

yeah it's a bit fiddly even with completely rus-free split pins. I found a small pair of mole grips on the loop bit (thereby squashing) the split pin worked well for one. The other was more stubborn, so I snapped off the loop and pulled it out backwards by the tails, which are far more accessible as they usually point frontwards.

[boltontvr]

adam quantrill said:

yeah it's a bit fiddly even with completely rus-free split pins. I found a small pair of mole grips on the loop bit (thereby squashing) the split pin worked well for one. The other was more stubborn, so I snapped off the loop and pulled it out backwards by the tails, which are far more accessible as they usually point frontwards.

I'll bear all this in mind when I'm doing mine. I ordered them yesterday. Need to put a final coat of paint on the outriggers, and put the sill extensions back on first though

[deetes]

Another thought, anybody got any ideas on the correct adjustment of the tie rods? The reason I ask is that the two lock nuts are set at different positions. There are more threads on the nearside tie rod. There should be some data on this somewhere, but it's not in the Wedge bible.

[adam quantrill]

Well as I see it, as long as they (the drop links) are equal with the suspension level, that should do the trick. I don't think the overall length matters too much, after all they are longer than the originals, and the ARB ends sit a bit higher than before, even when the drop links are set on minimum.

I set up the lower rose joints to be parallel with each ARB end - i.e. the bent bit. That seems to allow free movement when the suspension is raised and lowered.

I would like to know how to maintain them - is it just a matter of slapping some grease on every 6 months? Also Steve doesn't mention whether any initial lubrication is required.

>> Edited by adam quantrill on Thursday 20th April 14:27

[shpub]

No maintenance needed on the rose joints. You can squirt them with grease but I have never bothered because I don't like the idea of grease trapping grit etc. The 520 ones have been on for 5 years now and are fine despite trips to gravel traps, off roading etc.

The tie rod length sets the castor on the front suspension and may well be different lengths on each side. Worth chceking/setting up the suspension afterwards.
The tie rod is the horizontal bar that is bolted to the wishbone and to the chassis. Nothing to do with the ARB drop link length. The ARB drop link length just needs to be the same on both sides. The link length does not change the effect unless, each side has a different length. That also means that turning left will be different from turning right. Fine for an oval but not for anywhere else.

>> Edited by shpub on Thursday 20th April 06:40

[adam quantrill]

Yeah the tie rods - well initially I'm keeping the inner lock nuts in exactly the same position as before, and clamping the outer large nut onto the bushes to squish them. But it would be nice to know how to set them up properly. If they alter the castor angle, as Steve says, then it might be a matter of supporting the suspension on equal blocks at the front, with no wheels on, and checking against the swivel pins with a plumb line.

I just found this advice "a relatively simple way to measure castor is to mount a flat plate on the bottom ball joint and use a spirit level or smart gauge to measure the inclination of the ball joint."

>> Edited by adam quantrill on Thursday 20th April 15:01

[adam quantrill]

This is with the car jacked up and on full lock - hopefully I've got the orientation of the lower joint correct:



I am slightly worried about the proximity of the brake hose (the coily thing) to the ARB mechanics on full lock - any comments?

As you can see, it's nice and greasy!

A quick road test reveals that the steering is pretty neutral - it doesn't centre itself as before. I'm wondering if the castor angle needs increasing slightly??

>> Edited by adam quantrill on Friday 21st April 21:31