Wasnt expecting that!
Discussion
Have a look at all TVR racing cars my friend. you will find that the body has a metal bracket bolted to it in the 4 corners of the screel. this then wraps around the screen rubber to keep things all together.
Its the early TVR flappy roof syndrome i am afrais and is not unknown on pre m and m series cars.
other options open to you to cure this are a bracing rod fixed from the roof lining to the dashboard internally to stop the lift. You can also remove the roof headlining and carry out some re-inforcing work with a steel bar and fibreglass to impart some more ridgidity into the front of the roof structure.
neil.
Its the early TVR flappy roof syndrome i am afrais and is not unknown on pre m and m series cars.
other options open to you to cure this are a bracing rod fixed from the roof lining to the dashboard internally to stop the lift. You can also remove the roof headlining and carry out some re-inforcing work with a steel bar and fibreglass to impart some more ridgidity into the front of the roof structure.
neil.
). According to Adrian venn it is all about fitting using the right sealant to bond it in. Give him a call?This is caused by a build up of cabin pressure, you can temporarily relieve it by opening a window (cheapest option, but not too clever if its raining!!!, of course if its raining you get water down the inside of the screen as well as the outside if it lifts!!!)
This used to happen on my car until it was cured. My understanding is that there are two good solutions for this.
1) Remove headlining and glass in a piece of fibreglass rope across the top of the screen area to strengthen the roof
2) My preferred option, replace windscreen rubber with a Vixen item. This has a much larger overlap than the M series ones and seems to just work!
I did the second option and never had any problems, though when the rubber was fitted the installers said that the screen appeared to be too tall and they ground a small amount off it. It appears and some of the older owners may confirm this that about 10-15 years ago there was a batch of tinted screens made up by a third party glass manufacturer that were slightly too tall. Maybe I had one of those!
Hope that helps
davidy
This used to happen on my car until it was cured. My understanding is that there are two good solutions for this.
1) Remove headlining and glass in a piece of fibreglass rope across the top of the screen area to strengthen the roof
2) My preferred option, replace windscreen rubber with a Vixen item. This has a much larger overlap than the M series ones and seems to just work!
I did the second option and never had any problems, though when the rubber was fitted the installers said that the screen appeared to be too tall and they ground a small amount off it. It appears and some of the older owners may confirm this that about 10-15 years ago there was a batch of tinted screens made up by a third party glass manufacturer that were slightly too tall. Maybe I had one of those!
Hope that helps
davidy
a.g. said:
Keep the suggestions coming as each one seems to be a cheaper fix than the last. Excellent! I will have it done for nothing at this rate. SuPaSpArK is black silicone really strong enough to cope with that kind of force. I thought it was only used on screens to prevent water leaks.
Heard about this problem years ago so mine was siliconed from the start, car has been subjected to enormous speeds and everything has stayed in place so far (My screen is really tight fit though anyway!)
By the way Davidy, loved the photo's and cheques in the post
Supes.
Had a long chat with AV about this once- this is a summary of what he told me that I wrote down at the time
Clean the rubber with a non greasy cleaner, e.g. Carb. cleaner, brake cleaner. Black silicon sealant should be used on both sides of the rubber, at least at the top and bottom middle for about 3 foot, but all the way around if wanted. Screens have been known to pop out at high speeds so the sealant helps with this. It is a good idea to gently warm up the rubber to make it more flexible. Place the screen in, bottom first, and then into the rubber all the way around. Do all this on a flat surface (as the body flexes) and don’t move the car for a day so that the sealant can dry.
Clean the rubber with a non greasy cleaner, e.g. Carb. cleaner, brake cleaner. Black silicon sealant should be used on both sides of the rubber, at least at the top and bottom middle for about 3 foot, but all the way around if wanted. Screens have been known to pop out at high speeds so the sealant helps with this. It is a good idea to gently warm up the rubber to make it more flexible. Place the screen in, bottom first, and then into the rubber all the way around. Do all this on a flat surface (as the body flexes) and don’t move the car for a day so that the sealant can dry.
Re the window seal profile ...Over the years, because the price of buying the correct window seal, and also purchasers not understanding the correct spec...The seal needs to be the correct profile for fitting to fibreglass so that when filler chrome is inserted the compression onto the glass/shell is correct also it must have the correct corner radius limit spec. or the seal will not bend around smaller corner. If you have a glass to metal seal fitted as many do, then the screen will not stay in the shell at speed, as the wind pressure builds and the roof also flexes. The method of using silicone to bond shell to rubber-rubber to glass top and bottom works if all the surfaces are perfectly clean and the right seal is used. It is tried and tested at 155+ mph.
Adrian
Adrian
Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff