Hazard Lights

[Chimbat]

Just put my 97 4.0HC Chim back on the road after nearly a year - instantly banishing all thoughts of selling it. Sadly the electrical gremlins struck the second time I took it out, foolishly used the hazard lights and was unable to cancel them. I pulled the relevant fuse making it safe to drive home but since this circuit runs the doors, radio etc it takes the edge off off the whole experience. I assume there is a faulty relay that won't hold in, anyone know where this is and how to get at it? Cheers.


>> Edited by Chimbat on Tuesday 16th May 20:30

>> Edited by Chimbat on Tuesday 16th May 20:31

[apache]

The button sticks in sometimes

[Chimbat]

Apologies for my slow response. I have finally had a chance to have a look at it. Its likely that the switch is stuck as you suggest. It wasn't obvious to me how to get the radio panel out to check the switch. I have acquired the Steve Heath book which suggests it is easy once you have removed the radio but I couldn't get that out - maybe I'm just slow.

It would be good to know if there is a simple way of getting the radio out or if the manufacturers removal tool is essential (Std Pioneer).

PS - New to the website, appreciate the help not to mention the humour.

[jonathant]

The correct pair-of-radio-removal-tools will push the relevant bits in which will allow you to easily remove the radio (if that makes any sense). ie: I'm sure they're not required, but will make your life much easier.

[victormeldrew]

The standard Pioneer (well for '96) had a couple of flat "keys" about 4 inches long. These push down the sides to disengage the catches. You then have to apply sideways pressure to get the "keys" to pull the unit out. You can get the keys from Halfords.

Once out there are a couple of small screws each side which hold the chassis in place. The dash plate will then come free - it may well be a bit stuck to the vinyl, so ease it off carefully.

Another common problem is the slat of fibreglass the chassis screws too is a bit fragile and the area around the screw holes can crumble away. You'll need to build them back up with a fibreglass repair kit if that happens. On mine one broke away completely, so I cut a couple of pieces of aluminium sheet and bonded them in in place - 100% sorted.

[will.naylor]

You can get most radios out with a couple of blunt knives without causing any damage. Just don't use the best silver or tell the missus!!

[Chimbat]

Thank you - very much appreciated. I was barking up the right tree but needed a better tool. I suspect the best cutlery is just the right size and if not Halfords is no distance. I will have a tinker with it this evening.

[Chimbat]

I had a tinker with this at the weekend. My best cutlery didn't fit so I made a tool - that didn't seem to work and I didn't want to crack the radio. So I went to Halfords and guess what - none of them seem to stock a removal tool for a Pioneer set. Can it really be this hard (when I started this I was planning on an hour for the whole job)...I can see myself having to suffer an ignomious trip to a specialist to ask them to take it out for me.

Suggestions anyone?

[dingg]

Try a junior hacksaw blade snapped in half - should fit a treat - worked for me anyway.

[victormeldrew]

Know any Chavs?

Seriously, Halfords definately did stock them. Didn't think you'd get anywhere with cutlery; the tool inserts through some slots before it gets to the "latch", so knives would be too broad even if they would slip down the side OK. You might get away with a BarBQ skewer?

Here's what you are looking for:



The knife is for comparison, as is the pencil. Good luck!

[victormeldrew]

PS junior hacksaw blade sounds ideal - the peg will help with the pull out as well (like the indents in the pukka tool).

[Chimbat]

Thanks for that - junior hacksaw blade sounds like a good idea. I did indeed purchase some removal tools that looked about right but were for a different manufacturers set - no dice. You can get the right tool through Pioneer but of course not in stock and two weeks leadtime. It is good to know that they don't come out too easily otherwise I expect the chavs would have had them faceplate or no faceplate.

[Chimbat]

Ha ha ha ha done! Finally got the darned radio out. After trying all manner of thin flat things I just had to swallow my pride. Nipped round to a car audio specialist and 30 seconds later it was out. Interestingly there was nothing wrong with the hazard switch at all it was the mountings. All the bolts for the switchgear are secured with single plain nuts, no nylocks aand no sealant to stop them vibrating loose - so they did. The whole switch body had shifted. If they're all built like that a few other people will be having this problem. Mine will not be coming loose again and it's also very nice to be able to open the doors in the normal way.

Thanks for the tips everyone.

>> Edited by Chimbat on Tuesday 16th May 20:31

[FTOandTVR]

my button clicks on and off but the lights dont flash and the switch doesn't illuminate, the fogs are the same, is there a fuse that covers both?

[Chimbat]

This may vary from year to year. I think the fog lights are on the same circuit as the headlights/sidelights. The hazard control circuit runs off the cabin auxliary circuit that supplies the door switches, radio and alarm if I remember correctly. Both these fuses are in the fuseboard in the passenger footwell. Have a look in your handbook - that should tell you which is which. Check them first. If you don't have it the Steve Heath bible has the wiring diagrams.

Good luck!