Clanking Corvette
Discussion
89 vette, 6 spd manual. engine makes a "clanky" sound at low rpm/tickover. any ideas? 
Is it a 'clank' or more of a 'knock'. May be the classic big end bearing wear. Is the oil pressure good? (if so the crank mains are probably OK, but they make more of a 'rumble' noise anyway). I think you can drop the sump to check or even change (If the crank is still OK) big end bearings with the engine in the car IIRC. I have a new sump gasket for one of these if you want it.
>> Edited by chrisx666 on Thursday 11th May 15:22
>> Edited by chrisx666 on Thursday 11th May 15:22
I've seen two Corvette's do this (L98's) - unfortunately one was mine.
I only (initially) picked up mine on high oil temp - it was rising steadily whilst I was making progress down the A1. No noise. Ended up cruising at 55 to stop the temp rising.
Got home and found that there wasn't any noise from outside the car, but if the bonnet was lifted and then revved, the noise can best be described as rattling a bag full of cutlery.
As for oil pressure, it only dropped a few psi over normal, so I'd be a bit weary of only relying on the reading to decide whether or not it is the bearing.
Checking it without the belt is a great idea - there are a few other items that can make weird noises too.
As for poking new shells in just by removing the sump - it'd only really be a temporary fix, and having thrown a rod on another engine, the damage is normally massive. Best to do the job properly in my opinion. I put another motor in mine, but it's not an end of the world job to get the crank reground, or get a new one, or even turn it into a 383... once you've pulled the engine though!
Hope it isn't this and is something minor,
Francis.
I only (initially) picked up mine on high oil temp - it was rising steadily whilst I was making progress down the A1. No noise. Ended up cruising at 55 to stop the temp rising.
Got home and found that there wasn't any noise from outside the car, but if the bonnet was lifted and then revved, the noise can best be described as rattling a bag full of cutlery.
As for oil pressure, it only dropped a few psi over normal, so I'd be a bit weary of only relying on the reading to decide whether or not it is the bearing.
Checking it without the belt is a great idea - there are a few other items that can make weird noises too.
As for poking new shells in just by removing the sump - it'd only really be a temporary fix, and having thrown a rod on another engine, the damage is normally massive. Best to do the job properly in my opinion. I put another motor in mine, but it's not an end of the world job to get the crank reground, or get a new one, or even turn it into a 383... once you've pulled the engine though!
Hope it isn't this and is something minor,
Francis.
A.I.R smog pump maybe? (looks a bit like an alternator but with pipes instead of wires) They have paddles inside that flop about when the bearings go.
Try Wayne's suggestion of removing the belt. IIRC you only need a half-inch drive ratchet handle to hold back the tensioner. There should be a diagram under the bonnet showing how the belt is routed - if not try to remember/make a drawing as it is not always obvious.
Try Wayne's suggestion of removing the belt. IIRC you only need a half-inch drive ratchet handle to hold back the tensioner. There should be a diagram under the bonnet showing how the belt is routed - if not try to remember/make a drawing as it is not always obvious.
Yep Chris has got it right,its a half inch drive socket that fits nicely,...there will also be a pulley without a rear edge so if the belt is tight push the belt off the rear of this pulley...you should then be able to take the belt off another pulley and withdraw the belt.
If the belt is tight going back on put the belt on the pulley with no rear lip last.
HTH
If the belt is tight going back on put the belt on the pulley with no rear lip last.
HTH
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