Oil Temperatures
Discussion
What oil temp does your GTO-3 etc, run at on the circuit.
e.g My water temp never really goes above 90 degrees (Track or Road)
However on the track the oil temp can reach 130 ish, at this temp the power tends to tail off. This can happen within 5-6 hot laps so I come in. I know of others who do not have an oil temp/pres guage who run for longer that can't be good.
1. What is the max oil temp the engine should be run at?
2. What solutions are there
3. Does the Faulks intercooler make that much difference to the oil temp & performance.
I hate this about the car, only ever apparent on track.
e.g My water temp never really goes above 90 degrees (Track or Road)
However on the track the oil temp can reach 130 ish, at this temp the power tends to tail off. This can happen within 5-6 hot laps so I come in. I know of others who do not have an oil temp/pres guage who run for longer that can't be good.
1. What is the max oil temp the engine should be run at?
2. What solutions are there
3. Does the Faulks intercooler make that much difference to the oil temp & performance.
I hate this about the car, only ever apparent on track.
mr noble said:
Get the FP IC and your worries are over.
G
For heat soak maybe but not for the oil temps.
You need to fit an oil cooler. Preferably at the front in front of the radiator (vulnerable in front of the wheels). This will keep your temps under control and will not affect your water temps. If you want to get even cooler you'll need to start chopping bodywork.
Removing the rear grill is a simple mod that apparently makes quite a bit of difference.
Regards
PauL C
SPR117T said:
What oil temp does your GTO-3 etc, run at on the circuit.
e.g My water temp never really goes above 90 degrees (Track or Road)
However on the track the oil temp can reach 130 ish, at this temp the power tends to tail off. This can happen within 5-6 hot laps so I come in. I know of others who do not have an oil temp/pres guage who run for longer that can't be good.
1. What is the max oil temp the engine should be run at?
140 degres C
SPR117T said:
2. What solutions are there
Some of these are specific for the M400 but here goes:-
a) Remove the front number plate.
b) Remove the mesh from the left hand side pod - lower oil temp by 10 to 20 degrees C.
c) Don't rev the engine as much, use the low rev torque, don't engine brake as much.
d) Fit a fan (renault 5/squirrel fan) pointed at the front turbo.
e) Cut holes in the RHS wheel arch so that you get air flow out from the front tubo and oil cooler area into a low pressure area - Vegatnune can do this for you apparantly.
f) Do as Paul and some of the US owners have done and move the oil cooler to the front.
g) Cut a hole in the clam and fit a large fan! - a US owner has had this done.
h) Remove the rear number plate - I've not tried this one but it may help.
I try for the simple solutions first and so use a), b) and c) on my M400.
SPR117T said:
3. Does the Faulks intercooler make that much difference to the oil temp & performance.
Oil temp - not that I've noticed.
Performance - yes.
HTH
--
RIchard
Use a gear lower than you currently are. You'll be "faster", and the oil temp won't go over 110.
It was astonishing the difference between me and Micknall driving the same car at Rockingham. He was a gear higher in every part of the track (apart from the bowl), was quicker by using the torque of the engine, and the temp never went over 95 despite 5-6 laps. Me, I got it to 120 in 3 laps.
J
It was astonishing the difference between me and Micknall driving the same car at Rockingham. He was a gear higher in every part of the track (apart from the bowl), was quicker by using the torque of the engine, and the temp never went over 95 despite 5-6 laps. Me, I got it to 120 in 3 laps.
J
chillidog said:
a) Remove the front number plate.
b) Remove the mesh from the left hand side pod - lower oil temp by 10 to 20 degrees C.
Richard - how does a) and b) help lower oil temp??
a)I thought all the cooling at the front was for power steering and water
b)I thought oil cooler was in right side- so surely, removing mesh on right side pod would make more sense?
Also add i)
i) get Roush exhaust system. Feedback so far has been that oil temp stays low, but it's not a cheap solution!
joust said:
Use a gear lower than you currently are. You'll be "faster", and the oil temp won't go over 110.
It was astonishing the difference between me and Micknall driving the same car at Rockingham. He was a gear higher in every part of the track (apart from the bowl), was quicker by using the torque of the engine, and the temp never went over 95 despite 5-6 laps. Me, I got it to 120 in 3 laps.
Agreed - I short shift now and drive in what appears sometimes to be an absurdly high gear. However, at Brands GP circuit on Wednesday oil temp still rose to 120C. I did let a former Catheram Graduates Champion drive a few laps - she almost always used a gear lower than me, and in no time at all oil temp was 140c
robp said:
a) Remove the front number plate.
b) Remove the mesh from the left hand side pod - lower oil temp by 10 to 20 degrees C.
Richard - how does a) and b) help lower oil temp??
a)I thought all the cooling at the front was for power steering and water
b)I thought oil cooler was in right side- so surely, removing mesh on right side pod would make more sense?
Also add i)
i) get Roush exhaust system. Feedback so far has been that oil temp stays low, but it's not a cheap solution!
Oil stays hot because the engine bay get heat soaked => reducing the heat soak allows the oil cooler to perform.
**"Removing" the mesh on the RHS pod would leave you oil cooler exposed to stone damage so I've removed the mesh from the other pod and now more air enters the engine bay. You probably could replace the mesh with one with bigger holes on the LHS pod but as there isn't anything to damage there so ...
Good point about (i) ... I've a Roush exhaust on order
--
Richard
** "Removing":- Scrape the LHS pod against a wall, get it repainted, find the mesh didn't arrive in time. Then decide to see if the lack of mesh reduces the oil temps a la Joel in the USA.
On track my recently car didn't go above 120 degrees.. this was in 25 degree ambients with no other mods than the coated roush exhaust. Must admit though that was not pushing nearly as hard as say at Bedford.
On the autobahn i didn't see any higher than 120 either, granted with plenty of air flow. Think the coating gives about 10 degrees of cooling as a rough guess. A warning though that without the coating, i think you would see even higher temps, particularly as most of the extra power seems to be developed at higher revs.
HTH
Steve
On the autobahn i didn't see any higher than 120 either, granted with plenty of air flow
. Think the coating gives about 10 degrees of cooling as a rough guess. A warning though that without the coating, i think you would see even higher temps, particularly as most of the extra power seems to be developed at higher revs. HTH
Steve
chillidog said:
**"Removing" the mesh on the RHS pod would leave you oil cooler exposed to stone damage so I've removed the mesh from the other pod and now more air enters the engine bay.
Quick thinking, Batman. A hole in yer oil-cooler wouldn't help matters!
I'm also getting the ceramic coated exhaust, and if that dosn't keep things below 120C on hard laps, I think I may try the wheel-arch liner solution (a la Adrian)
diceman said:
A warning though that without the coating, i think you would see even higher temps, particularly as most of the extra power seems to be developed at higher revs.
I'd agree about the coating but not the high revs power bit. I've got 30lbft more torque at 3,500rpm!
I think I said on another thread, typical oil temperature at Silverstone was 110. I always run with front and rear number plates removed. I am looking at ways to get a little more airflow under the clam.
I'll post this on the Roush Exhaust thread too but after a fairly hard day at Silverstone the front and rear turbo to exhaust manifold interface studs were still tight.
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