Discussion
Even after fitting a new speedo drive cable still couldn't get speedo working
Removed the gearbox end and put it in the dremel , speedo works
Decided the cheapest option was a pushbike speedo...
Fitted reed switch to rear hub carrier and magnet to back of rear wheel stud, ran cable alongside fuel pipes and through bulkhead to dash. mounted speedo..........
Went out to test
today with my GPS speedo....
Absolutely spot on......cheapest possible speedo fix from halfrauds (£5)
Removed the gearbox end and put it in the dremel , speedo works
Decided the cheapest option was a pushbike speedo...
Fitted reed switch to rear hub carrier and magnet to back of rear wheel stud, ran cable alongside fuel pipes and through bulkhead to dash. mounted speedo..........
Went out to test
today with my GPS speedo.... Absolutely spot on......cheapest possible speedo fix from halfrauds (£5)

Yup, I checked before I bought it... will go upto 148.99
Trust me , my bottle will be gone well before that......
Only ever done 145 plus in/on 3 things (on a track of course officer)
911 , ZXR-750 H1, and .....wait for it.......an MG Montego Turbo...(OK you can all go change into dry underpants now!)
Good thought about the nylon gear though, does it just pull out , and a new one push back in....
Trust me , my bottle will be gone well before that......
Only ever done 145 plus in/on 3 things (on a track of course officer)
911 , ZXR-750 H1, and .....wait for it.......an MG Montego Turbo...(OK you can all go change into dry underpants now!)
Good thought about the nylon gear though, does it just pull out , and a new one push back in....
I've got one as a standby for exactly the same application. Calibration seems to be adjustable over the range 5 - 99 cm (circumference) and I've tested mine on my son's hamster's wheel, which averages IRO 2 miles a night, peaking at 4 miles an hour would you believe. Don't know if the Wedge would manage to keep up with those big numbers
I had wondered if a reed switch would keep up with the frequency of switching at high speed but it sounds like you've proved that! Another thought was to fit the magnet/sensor to the propshaft which would make installation quite a bit easier and just requires knowing the ratio involved.
I had wondered if a reed switch would keep up with the frequency of switching at high speed but it sounds like you've proved that! Another thought was to fit the magnet/sensor to the propshaft which would make installation quite a bit easier and just requires knowing the ratio involved.
leorest said:
I've got one as a standby for exactly the same application. Calibration seems to be adjustable over the range 5 - 99 cm (circumference) and I've tested mine on my son's hamster's wheel, which averages IRO 2 miles a night, peaking at 4 miles an hour would you believe. Don't know if the Wedge would manage to keep up with those big numbers ![]()
I had wondered if a reed switch would keep up with the frequency of switching at high speed but it sounds like you've proved that! Another thought was to fit the magnet/sensor to the propshaft which would make installation quite a bit easier and just requires knowing the ratio involved.
The original cruise control for the SD1 used a reed switch triggered by magnets on the propshaft, so should be be good for quite a few MPH at least...

convert said:
Yup, I checked before I bought it... will go upto 148.99
....
My mountain bike will not go that fast, not quite sure what bike does.
Just about get 140 out of the GSX but wanted to live that day down the A33
Tried my own speed trial from the M4 to a certain garage on the A33 between the GSX600, Omega MV6 and 350 to see how fast they would go
Of course I would not condone this sort of behavour and was of course carried out in a controlled manor with proper road closures

Maybe should now try the 450 and the WSV and the mountain bike


By the way Omega 145, GSX 140, 350 135 all on the GPS
convert said:
Good thought about the nylon gear though, does it just pull out , and a new one push back in....
Yes, just take of the fork thing that retains the speedo cable then it pulls out of the box, I would use some mole grips, lightly. You need to replace it with one the same colour.
blaineuk said:Agreed. When it's built I'll probably spent the rest of my life there
leorest said:
I've tested mine on my son's hamster's wheel, which averages IRO 2 miles a night, peaking at 4 miles an hour would you believe. Don't know if the Wedge would manage to keep up with those big numbers ![]()
you need to spend more time in the garage

If it's recording on the odo, but the needle isn't moving, then it's the speedo itself that is broke.
The only solution is a new speedo (a proper one), a cheap fix (a al halfrauds), or getting your existing unit rebuilt....
If you decide to go the bike speedo way, PM me and I'll get some pictures over to you..
The only solution is a new speedo (a proper one), a cheap fix (a al halfrauds), or getting your existing unit rebuilt....
If you decide to go the bike speedo way, PM me and I'll get some pictures over to you..
I replaced my cable and it is not kinked but reads slow om miles and mph.it seems to be fitted ok and the old one worked fine until I caught it underneath the car. Now what are these reed switches? (magnets I understand!) and how do you calibrate it to the speedo, and surely a bike speedo cable wont fit into a Stewart Warner speedo??? I have an electric distance measurer system on a Terratrip on my Cortina Lotus rally car, driven off a front wheel. I dont understand that either, but it works!!
leorest said:
wedg1e said:That's good to know. Do you know how it was attached? I presume balance needs to be considered.
The original cruise control for the SD1 used a reed switch triggered by magnets on the propshaft, so should be be good for quite a few MPH at least...
On the Dana cruise system I believe there were two magnets, each one somehow held in a steel bracket that was secured by two of the propshaft flange bolts. So the opposing magnets cancelled each other out (in weight terms).
The later (Hella) system replaced the speedo cable drive with a pulse generator, presumably still using spinning magnets, and the later SD1 had an electronic speedo. It's one of the difficulties I'm having in getting the Hella system to work on the TVR: no pulse genny and the TVR mechanical speedo. I plan to try propshaft magnets and if that fails, some kind of pulse genny that breaks into the speedo cable (didn't later Wedges have something similar anyway?)...
wedg1e said:
some kind of pulse genny that breaks into the speedo cable (didn't later Wedges have something similar anyway?)...
The 400 Hotwire cars have a thingy in the speedo cable, mine is under the servo, which I think is a speed sensor for the ECU I have had mine to bits (as you do) and that is a magnet type, I think it tells the ECU if it needs to support tickover / is the car moving or not. ( I think its one of the things that stops snap crackle and pop on the hotwire cars) Not sure if its able to tell how fast the car is going or just the fact that it is not standing still. Discos / R Rovers have one on the gearbox according to Haynes. Chimps etc also may have one. Could be worth a look.
I have just typed all that lot and now realised you look like my Granny and I am holding eggs and a pin.
Sorry Wedg1e I will leave it on somebody may like to read it
>> Edited by badredwedge on Thursday 18th May 07:54
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