PSA Hdi engine lower pulley
Discussion
I've recently bought a Hdi90 306.
There is a common fault where the lower crank pulley for the aux-belt has a flexi-mount from the solid cambelt drive to the aux-belt drive fails. I assume it's there to absorb shock or something.
Anyway, mine is clicking a bit and this is the symptom that is a pre-cursor to the rubber failing.
Now, my question is, this is a fairly new thing to me... does the rubber NEED to be there? Pug units are £144.43 new, and clearly don't last much over 6 years and 50k miles, so is it really worth it? Might I be better just welding it up so it's a solid one, or does that rubber NEED to be there?
Dave
There is a common fault where the lower crank pulley for the aux-belt has a flexi-mount from the solid cambelt drive to the aux-belt drive fails. I assume it's there to absorb shock or something.
Anyway, mine is clicking a bit and this is the symptom that is a pre-cursor to the rubber failing.
Now, my question is, this is a fairly new thing to me... does the rubber NEED to be there? Pug units are £144.43 new, and clearly don't last much over 6 years and 50k miles, so is it really worth it? Might I be better just welding it up so it's a solid one, or does that rubber NEED to be there?
Dave
Aye.
Been doing some reading and it seems the old ones were faulty and cheaper to replace, but these new expensive ones have been fixed so they don't fail prematurely... or so Pug say.
Time will tell
Thanks for the advice... kinda makes sense it has some purpose being rubber, just not seen it on many cars before like the older Tdi engine's etc.
Dave
Been doing some reading and it seems the old ones were faulty and cheaper to replace, but these new expensive ones have been fixed so they don't fail prematurely... or so Pug say.
Time will tell
Thanks for the advice... kinda makes sense it has some purpose being rubber, just not seen it on many cars before like the older Tdi engine's etc.
Dave
Rs Rosco said:
Thats evolution for ya - maybes not eh
that said, once the new pulleys been fitted ive rareley seen them come back failed
Ross
Care to answer a quick question Ross?
How much are those digital tension testers that Peugeot use when they do cambelts?
Just done my Hdi and it's making a funny ish noise. Not sure as I've done waterpump, lower pulley and cambelt so could be anything...
Is it 100% necessary to slacken the camshaft sproket from the camshaft hub(while locked) so the tension can propogate around the belt, or will this happen naturally IF you replace the belt as per the old one (ie, mark old belt and pulleys and transfer marks to new belt, so new one goes on as if it was the old one. ie, same amount of teeth between each pulley)
Will be stripping off the covers again tomorrow and having a play, re-set the tension manually as Haynes suggest, just sounds like a racing gearbox (but engine speed dependant) from 2000>1000rpm
Then again could be an exhaust leak after I've been wiggling the engine around all over to get the top cam cover off
Bloody Peugeot's
Dave
>> Edited by Mr Whippy on Saturday 20th May 21:50
Ah that sounds good.
It does seem easier to leave everything locked (crank/cam) and just mark it all up on the belt and then copy it to the new one so it's just as original when you put it on, then just tension it up
Can't believe it could be a tensioner or roller bearing. Weird how often when you disturb them they start to make noises.
Was gonna get a cambelt kit with tensioner and roller but thought they'd be ok @ 72k
Ah well, will have another look this afternoon.
I guess it could even be the new waterpump maybe a duff one... only problem when you do several jobs all at once
Dave
It does seem easier to leave everything locked (crank/cam) and just mark it all up on the belt and then copy it to the new one so it's just as original when you put it on, then just tension it up
Can't believe it could be a tensioner or roller bearing. Weird how often when you disturb them they start to make noises.
Was gonna get a cambelt kit with tensioner and roller but thought they'd be ok @ 72k
Ah well, will have another look this afternoon.
I guess it could even be the new waterpump maybe a duff one... only problem when you do several jobs all at once
Dave
Rs Rosco said:
let me know
Took the covers off again, both top ones, ran it, noise still there a bit. Checked covers and belt for rubbing etc, none. All good. Ran really quietly generally, just a clatter from top cam sprocket in the head.
Did full oil change and filter with good oil (was overdue 12k basic service by 250 miles), cleaned that noise up almost totally, and then slackened the belt a touch, and the whine noise about halved then.
I'm tempted to say the whining is just the new belt, lower pulley and waterpump all bedding into each other, as the rpm range seems to have altered from 1000>2000rpm to 1500>1750rpm where the engine exhibts a now reduced "coming to a stop in a big truck" transmission type whine...
Just never had that before, but guess I've never done so many parts all at once in one area.
If it doesn't go I'll probably do the tensioner and roller as a matter of course, and just cross my fingers it's not the new waterpump that is faulty. Do many waterpumps go on faulty or are they checked? Are Peugeot good at paying out for a warranty claim against dodgy parts...? Never had to but expect they just claim off the parts supplier.
Cheers for the help.
Dave
Yep, loads of new noises to get used to on a new car. My fuel filter housing seems to whine a bit too, and apparently it's common 
Rekon it's O-rings on the pipe connectors seeping a tiny bit of air in after 6 years and 72k miles of use.
Cheers for the help, it's much appreciated. Will just leave it be and see if it develops then at least I can diagnose it fully. My brother had a good look at the tensioner roller off the car and he said it appeared fine soooo
Dave
Rekon it's O-rings on the pipe connectors seeping a tiny bit of air in after 6 years and 72k miles of use.
Cheers for the help, it's much appreciated. Will just leave it be and see if it develops then at least I can diagnose it fully. My brother had a good look at the tensioner roller off the car and he said it appeared fine soooo
Dave
I always replace the tensioners when doing these belts as they normally show signs of wear at 100,000 and in all probability will not need to be touched again for another 100,000 .I always think that 200,000 miles is a lot for a cheap bearing .The bottom pulley is available from GSF for £86.25 + the vat and doesn't appear to be mileage related (did a synergie with 30,000 on it last month.The trick to take the rear cover off is to take off the top mount lower the engine to give yourself more room and then put the top mount back on while you are doing the next steps.
Yep, we had the top-mount on and off about 10 times during the day
Once you know how it's so much easier, just the first time it takes ages.
Spent 6 hours doing the waterpump, cambelt, lower pulley, crank oil seal and getting it all back together.
Next day took the top covers off to check belt etc, but had bought some ratchet ring spanners from Halfrauds (steep but lifetime guarantee and sooo handy), so did the covers in 30 mins flat, wheras it took well over an hour and a half first time round, the bolts were thread-locked along their length and no room for a conventional ratchet!
As per bottom pulley, I got mine for £114 inc VAT from Pug, and it is uprated from the old one so I expect they did a new revised one from what I hear and read, so happy to have a genuine part. Looks nice all on one receipt from Pug too, considering I bought the car one owner from new FPSH...
As per tensioners, yeah, kinda wish I'd done them now, but Pug recommend 96k for the cambelt kit I think, and I'm at 72k. Also the numerous 1.9Tdi Pug engine's we've done from 100k to 200k (about 5 cars with these engine's) have never needed a tensioner or roller replacing, so I expect they are pretty tough as they hardly rev on a derv.
Also checked the tensioner off the car and it seemed solid and sturdy sooooo.
Next job is clutch anyway, slipping a tiny little bit at 2500rpm up-hill as you get on the throttle in 5th gear... so much for swapping to a Hdi to save money Rekon the Gti would have started to need clutch and other bits soon enough too though so hey... cars cost money
Dave
Once you know how it's so much easier, just the first time it takes ages.
Spent 6 hours doing the waterpump, cambelt, lower pulley, crank oil seal and getting it all back together.
Next day took the top covers off to check belt etc, but had bought some ratchet ring spanners from Halfrauds (steep but lifetime guarantee and sooo handy), so did the covers in 30 mins flat, wheras it took well over an hour and a half first time round, the bolts were thread-locked along their length and no room for a conventional ratchet!
As per bottom pulley, I got mine for £114 inc VAT from Pug, and it is uprated from the old one so I expect they did a new revised one from what I hear and read, so happy to have a genuine part. Looks nice all on one receipt from Pug too, considering I bought the car one owner from new FPSH...
As per tensioners, yeah, kinda wish I'd done them now, but Pug recommend 96k for the cambelt kit I think, and I'm at 72k. Also the numerous 1.9Tdi Pug engine's we've done from 100k to 200k (about 5 cars with these engine's) have never needed a tensioner or roller replacing, so I expect they are pretty tough as they hardly rev on a derv.
Also checked the tensioner off the car and it seemed solid and sturdy sooooo.
Next job is clutch anyway, slipping a tiny little bit at 2500rpm up-hill as you get on the throttle in 5th gear... so much for swapping to a Hdi to save money
Rekon the Gti would have started to need clutch and other bits soon enough too though so hey... cars cost money Dave
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