Discussion
Hello people, i am the proud new owner of a Jago Geep
i bought it for £250 including trailerage. and am feverently aiming to get it MOTable
it does need a lot of work, and i would be grateful if you can point me in the right direction. i have read a lot of info in preparation of the geep, and the V5 checks out and it has had an MOT in 2000 but has been off the road since... the electric were completely shot, so i have removed the whole messed up loom ( twist and tapeing of wires YUCK!) and am down to just ignition... with lots of fiddling and messing with a loose dizzy and ramming petrol down the intake and the car spitting out all kinds of things. the engine runs hurrah! (1300 X flow)
my biggest issue ATM is that of the master brake cylinder... it seems the original builder has used a girling 5/8 clutch master cylinder for the brakes.. and this cylinder has become seized...
i have seen pictures of other peoples engine bays.. and the brake cylinder there looks NOTHING like the seized one i have.
i was wondering what the actual recommended cylinder is so that i could acquire one and push onward with the refurb!
im not expecting great things, all im aiming for is an MOT (all LOL) but i am under no pressure per se to get it driving in a hurry, as my 'lil polo is sufficent, but cruising this summer post A Levels would be most delctable!
sorry for the long winded post, and i thank you in advance
Jamie
i bought it for £250 including trailerage. and am feverently aiming to get it MOTable
it does need a lot of work, and i would be grateful if you can point me in the right direction. i have read a lot of info in preparation of the geep, and the V5 checks out and it has had an MOT in 2000 but has been off the road since... the electric were completely shot, so i have removed the whole messed up loom ( twist and tapeing of wires YUCK!) and am down to just ignition... with lots of fiddling and messing with a loose dizzy and ramming petrol down the intake and the car spitting out all kinds of things. the engine runs hurrah! (1300 X flow)
my biggest issue ATM is that of the master brake cylinder... it seems the original builder has used a girling 5/8 clutch master cylinder for the brakes.. and this cylinder has become seized...
i have seen pictures of other peoples engine bays.. and the brake cylinder there looks NOTHING like the seized one i have.
i was wondering what the actual recommended cylinder is so that i could acquire one and push onward with the refurb!
im not expecting great things, all im aiming for is an MOT (all LOL) but i am under no pressure per se to get it driving in a hurry, as my 'lil polo is sufficent, but cruising this summer post A Levels would be most delctable!
sorry for the long winded post, and i thank you in advance
Jamie
Hi Jamie - welcome and don't panic, you're treading a well trodden path of ownership 
First thing to do first thing to do is find our up to date site at www.jagoownersclub.co.uk and go from there.
First thing to do first thing to do is find our up to date site at www.jagoownersclub.co.uk and go from there.
Hi & welcome G_P. Your best friend will be an enthusiastic counter hand at a parts or spares shop. Forget Halfrauds and your local Ford dealer unless you can ask for the correct part from the exact model of Ford with a straight face- I'm on my third jago (amongst other kit cars) and I still can't manage it!!!
Your best bet for a loom will be an original Mk1 or 2 Escort if you can find one. That way, you can get the requisite Haynes Manual (always on eBay) and follow everything exactly.
The next best is to junk the lot and contact Premier, the auto wiring people. Most kit car building pros use them because there is nothing to touch their setup at the price (~£120 complete) and very easy and quick to fit. They will even customise some connectors for you at very little cost.
Good luck
Ian
Your best bet for a loom will be an original Mk1 or 2 Escort if you can find one. That way, you can get the requisite Haynes Manual (always on eBay) and follow everything exactly.
The next best is to junk the lot and contact Premier, the auto wiring people. Most kit car building pros use them because there is nothing to touch their setup at the price (~£120 complete) and very easy and quick to fit. They will even customise some connectors for you at very little cost.
Good luck
Ian
any idea what model its based on?
early mark 1's mat have had single circuit brakes which would have had a master cyl like you describe esp if it origionally had drums as theres less fluid in a drum braked system un seize it and see if it works as a start
although a better idea twin circuit brakes will require quite a bit of re piping to make work and there are 2 versions of that fitted to escorts {at least} master cyls with 2 and 3 outlets
just confirmed there were single line brakes on mk 1's so would have had a cyl as you describe [my manual is where the cars are so am asking jan to look in manual as i type lol]
1100 and 1300 single line brakes were .625" 15.9mm which is 5/8 so will work if seals etc ok
the twin piston type master cyls are a source of grief too maybe with the smaller bore of the 5/8 [twins are 19mm approx 3/4] you may get a firmer pedal?
from the brakes sounds like was based on an early mark one????
or the brakes are lol
good luck and a mk 1 manual sounds like a good purchase
incidentally where are you based?
early mark 1's mat have had single circuit brakes which would have had a master cyl like you describe esp if it origionally had drums as theres less fluid in a drum braked system un seize it and see if it works as a start
although a better idea twin circuit brakes will require quite a bit of re piping to make work and there are 2 versions of that fitted to escorts {at least} master cyls with 2 and 3 outlets
just confirmed there were single line brakes on mk 1's so would have had a cyl as you describe [my manual is where the cars are so am asking jan to look in manual as i type lol]
1100 and 1300 single line brakes were .625" 15.9mm which is 5/8 so will work if seals etc ok
the twin piston type master cyls are a source of grief too maybe with the smaller bore of the 5/8 [twins are 19mm approx 3/4] you may get a firmer pedal?
from the brakes sounds like was based on an early mark one????
or the brakes are lol
good luck and a mk 1 manual sounds like a good purchase
incidentally where are you based?
thanks for the information!
ah seems like i have a MKI, i am based in newbury, in berkshire. the front brakes are disk and the back ones are drums!
i would rather go with a dual circuit for safety... but for now ill go as you say and buy a direc replacement! the cylinder is completely seized and after a good hammering it has come loose, but there is alarge rust ring where it was. not good.
ill start by getting these brakes working, and ill go from there...
i was seriously considering rewiring the whole thing myself.. as i feel i know what im doing except for the indicators. which i have almost completed a circuit diagram for! either way ill be popping down the scrappy fairly soon. just need work to pay me soon :P
thanks again for the info
Jamie
ah seems like i have a MKI, i am based in newbury, in berkshire. the front brakes are disk and the back ones are drums!
i would rather go with a dual circuit for safety... but for now ill go as you say and buy a direc replacement! the cylinder is completely seized and after a good hammering it has come loose, but there is alarge rust ring where it was. not good.
ill start by getting these brakes working, and ill go from there...
i was seriously considering rewiring the whole thing myself.. as i feel i know what im doing except for the indicators. which i have almost completed a circuit diagram for! either way ill be popping down the scrappy fairly soon. just need work to pay me soon :P
thanks again for the info
Jamie
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