RV8 cooling or lack of

[B19 RUS]

Hi gang (my car is a pre-serp 500)

Fan issues aside I have been thinking the general lack of cooling in my RV8. I understand that there are effects born from pre-cats retaining heat, headers billowing heat over the engine and generally GRP’s inability to dissipate heat. With this in mind I have been thinking about things I can do to help my car to reach its optimum temp which I believe to be 90 ish and stay within a reasonable range without masking the problem with supplementary cooling kits. In addition to all the usual flushing, thermostats etc would these mods help?

• Removing pre-cats.
• Ceramic coating the fanny moulds.
• Fitting a higher output water pump (has anyone done this?)
• Fitting an additional swirl pot as per a serp car to increase coolant capacity.
• Fitting a smaller water pump pulley so theoretically the pump spins faster.

Any thoughts??

[IPAddis]

You say the lack of cooling but my Griff has never overheated and maintained the correct temperature in a traffic jam at Le Mans last year (which was stupidly hot, circa 30 degrees C in case you weren't there).

I don't believe there is a general issue with the standard cooling system as long as it is well maintained. There are things you can do to help but I certainly wouldn't go to the bother of fitting uprated water pumps.

Personally, I think the best thing you can have done is to get the radiator back-flushed, have the coolant changed and check the fan wiring. Oh, and disconnect the throttle heater pipes, it won't help the cooling but it will help the power.

Ian A.

>> Edited by IPAddis on Thursday 18th May 12:40

[GreenV8S]

I assume the water level is correct and the engine and radiator have been bled properly.

You should never have any issue with cooling at high speed. If you find you do, check whether the splitter has fallen off and consider moving it forwards or fitting a bigger one or repositioning the number plate.

What seems to be more of a problem is cooling while stationary. The problem is basically lack of air flow, combined with hot air recirculation through the radiator. Make sure the radiator is sealed around all the edges, if the radiator isn't cowled then consider fitting a cowl, feel the temperature of the air in front of the rad when it has been idling for ten minutes and if it is warm look for ways to stop the hot air recirculation.

Insulating the headers is well worth doing, also an old radiator that has been filled with tap water or run without enough corrision inhibitors will have less heat transfer than a new one.

Overgearing the water pump is not a good idea, it could lead to cavitation and total loss of cooling at high revs.

Oh, and calibrate the temperature gauge. They're notoriously inaccurate, and you may not have any problem at all.

[toma500]

B19 RUS said:

Hi gang (my car is a pre-serp 500) Fan issues aside I have been thinking the general lack of cooling in my RV8. I understand that there are effects born from pre-cats retaining heat, headers billowing heat over the engine and generally GRP’s inability to dissipate heat. With this in mind I have been thinking about things I can do to help my car to reach its optimum temp which I believe to be 90 ish and stay within a reasonable range without masking the problem with supplementary cooling kits. In addition to all the usual flushing, thermostats etc would these mods help? • Removing pre-cats. • Ceramic coating the fanny moulds. • Fitting a higher output water pump (has anyone done this?) • Fitting an additional swirl pot as per a serp car to increase coolant capacity. • Fitting a smaller water pump pulley so theoretically the pump spins faster. Any thoughts??

Hi mines a pre serp 500 too just into 3years of ownership , Was sick of constantly looking at temp guage hovered around 85 -90 all the time once the fans had cut in for first time ,so i got the radiator re cored put a new stat in as well a 74 degree one, and now its much better temp needle always at about 70 - 80 and only goes up to the fan cut in in heavy traffic . Ive got a home made front splitter on as well , but that might have to come off in the winter recore and stat came to £200 all in at my local garage money well spent !