Stainless heater control fascia(fitting)?
Discussion
Hi all,yep me again............
Fitted my main dash a few weeks ago but decided to put off until this weekend the fitting of the heater fascia..........
The type I have bought is a stick on over the original type(act products)But the heater and window switches need to be disconnected to slot through!
So........Do I need to pull every individual spade connector off the back off each switch?or is there an easier way that I seem to be overlooking?
Any help advice as per usual greatly appreciated,
Thanks
Rob
Fitted my main dash a few weeks ago but decided to put off until this weekend the fitting of the heater fascia..........
The type I have bought is a stick on over the original type(act products)But the heater and window switches need to be disconnected to slot through!
So........Do I need to pull every individual spade connector off the back off each switch?or is there an easier way that I seem to be overlooking?
Any help advice as per usual greatly appreciated,
Thanks
Rob

mongoose said:
On the back of eack window switch in a griff 500 there is just one connector block,so is shouldn't be too bad,even with four of them,if its like this.
Hi Mike,
From what I can see the precats do not employ the same system,by memory from when I last looked there are between 6 and 8 small spade connectors to each switch!?

llanelli-rob said:Chuffin eck! I suppose you might be able to do one at a time,ie thread the wires through one hole then connect the switch before doing the next,only if the cables are long enough though i guess?
Hi Mike,
From what I can see the precats do not employ the same system,by memory from when I last looked there are between 6 and 8 small spade connectors to each switch!?
It is actually quite easy to sort the wiring on the switch.
The two outside wires (red with a colour tracer) are the ones to the window motor itself.
If you get these opposed the window will go the wrong way.
The two blacks are just earths so it doesnt matter which way around they go.
The two reds in the middle area, one is the live for the windows, the other is the live for the light in the switch.
If you get these the wrong way round, the light will always be on and the window wont work unless the ignition is on.
I would imagine the heater control switched employ a very similar wiring scheme as they are in effect doing exactly the same task.
>> Edited by antonyj on Saturday 20th May 19:36
The two outside wires (red with a colour tracer) are the ones to the window motor itself.
If you get these opposed the window will go the wrong way.
The two blacks are just earths so it doesnt matter which way around they go.
The two reds in the middle area, one is the live for the windows, the other is the live for the light in the switch.
If you get these the wrong way round, the light will always be on and the window wont work unless the ignition is on.
I would imagine the heater control switched employ a very similar wiring scheme as they are in effect doing exactly the same task.
>> Edited by antonyj on Saturday 20th May 19:36
antonyj said:
It is actually quite easy to sort the wiring on the switch.
The two outside wires (red with a colour tracer) are the ones to the window motor itself.
If you get these opposed the window will go the wrong way.
The two blacks are just earths so and it doesnt matter which way around they go.
The two reds in the middle area, one is the live for the windows, the other is the live for the light in the switch.
If you get these the wrong way round, the light will always be on and the window wont work unless the ignition is on.
I would imagine the heater control switched employ a very similar wiring scheme as they are in effect doing exactly the same task.
Thanks Antony,makes it a little easier with that explanation
Cheers.
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