New battery time?
New battery time?
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Discussion

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Tuesday 23rd May 2006
quotequote all
Went into my garage just to start her up needed a shot afterall the rain,however wouldnt start up.Last used 5 days ago.Shes 8 years old, 30k miles.Symtoms are; lights working,dash lights ok,fuel pump priming,immobiliser switches off,I have just switched on battery conditioner showing 10 volts charge in battery, butwhen turning the key, not a sound not even a click. Any suggestions out there?

>> Edited by 5yearstobuyatvr on Sunday 28th May 18:43

2 sMoKiN bArReLs

32,031 posts

265 months

Tuesday 23rd May 2006
quotequote all
I've had this twice:

1) Main lead had dropped off the starter motor (connector had broke)

2) Main fuse u/s (can't remember what other symptoms I had with this)

V8 Kieran

968 posts

283 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
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After 5 days, many Chims will be found wanting for charge (mine turned out to be the standard fit radio/CD changer - now take off radio face and no more discharge). However you have life elsewhere, so would expect starting circuit rather than battery.

Did the conditioner solve the problem overnight? (although all good electrical problems are intermittent! )

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
quotequote all
Thanks for that, Tried again this morning after leaving conditioner on all night,still wouldnt start but small sign of life in battery but by no means enough to fire her.

Cider Andy

1,889 posts

255 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
quotequote all
If the battery is down to 10V after just five days then you're right, it's due for a change UNLESS there's a faulty connection that's just shown up, or there's an unusual new drain on it.

As far as lights working, did you check the headlamps? If they are bright that's usually a good indication that the battery is in good order. Do they dim when you turn the key to the cranking position?

Where does your conditioner/charger plug in? I had a fault with the cigarette lighter socket (sat. nav. wouldn't work). It was only showing 10V (which dropped to about 2V with the fuse disconnected - I never got to the bottom of that one!). The problem was in the connector behind the speaker in the door. If you have a fault there and that's where you plug the charger in, it might be doing nothing.

ATG

23,791 posts

302 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
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Have you tried jump starting it? If your jump leads are on the Chim's battery terminals, and the car won't start then the problem isn't with the battery ... if it does start, then the battery is shot, or you haven't been recharging it (alternator, accumate or whatever)

zumbruk

7,848 posts

290 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
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Eight years is a *long* time for a modern car battery (which are designed to last the warranty period, plus 800 milliseconds) unless it's been very well looked after.

Get a new one and buy a battery conditioner.

blujay10

583 posts

260 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
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Had exaclty the same problem with my 5 year old battery.
Car started fine when using one of those booster packs. Had new battery fitted (yes I know I should have done it myself...) and all back to normal.

russ_chim

76 posts

261 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
quotequote all
I had exactly the same problem. Although in my case I had just replaced the battery and there was clearly charge in the battery as the alarm disarmed/doors opened/fuel pump quite 'strongly' which suggested there was plenty of charge in the battery.

I posted this query a few weeks and a number of people came up with some good suggestions.

However, it seeems as though it could be one of two things:

Faulty imobiliser
Faulty starter motor

Apparently the imobiliser has 3 different circuits - one to the fuel pump, one to the starter motor and one somewhere else. So its entirely possible that the fueld pump 'line' is working, but the starter motor one isn't. Certainly thats the view of Carl Baker who advised me. He was able to do a few things to the imobiliser so that I can rule it out and I'm still testing it at the moment. But at the moment this seems the most likely culprit. Apparently, unlike other cars, a much higher charge runs through the imob and therefore they can detoriate quicker. Although he did admit this is still not a particularly common problem. My car is 8 years old also.

Failing that, it could be a sticky starter motor.

However, if you find out anything else I'd be keen to hear about it.

2 sMoKiN bArReLs

32,031 posts

265 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
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So what was it?

russ_chim

76 posts

261 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
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Not sure!

Forgot to add that it was an intermittent problem, and when it did start it was as good as its ever been. We have therefore temporarily replaced the imobiliser to rule it out. I have only used the car a few times since, but so far it has started fine everytime, so the imob does seem to have been causing the problem.

Will keep you updated if anything changes.

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Wednesday 24th May 2006
quotequote all
Good News!After 2 nights on the batteryconditioner She started tonight 1st time, it just prooves that 10 volts is enough to work headlights etc but not enough to fire her up. However I have bought a new battery today after shopping around, its an exide with offer at Charlie Browns costing £48 with a 4 yr warranty

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Friday 26th May 2006
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Does anybody know the thread type and bolt length required for the 2 bolts underneath the car for retaining the battery box on a 1998 model?

v8sag

827 posts

240 months

Saturday 27th May 2006
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5yearstobuyatvr said:
Does anybody know the thread type and bolt length required for the 2 bolts underneath the car for retaining the battery box on a 1998 model?


Off memory,they are 25mm long(in total)x 1/4" shank x 1/2" head and nut.

5yearstobuyatvr

Original Poster:

788 posts

249 months

Sunday 28th May 2006
quotequote all
Whitworth thread?