sealent

[Tegriffic]

I need to replace the sealent around the light pods. What's the best product to use and any tips as how to make it tidy ?

[Pagej]

I used Silkaflex 227 which was recommended to me by Morelli's (supply materials to bodyshops). I has my pods out (Ooooer...!) 21/2 years ago and still going strong.
Thoroughly cleaned & degreased the surfaces before applying a good size continuous bead around the flange of the assembled pod and carefully moved in through the opening (tricky). Can't remember what moves I did next but I ended up pushing the pod into place through the opening in the wheel arch and tightening up the securing tag to hold in place. ( think I did several trial fits first without any mastic to make sure it went in without any hitches). Removed excess mastic on the outside then finished cleaning up with a rag soaked in white spirit. Seemed to go ok but I'd say it's not a job to rush.

[Aussie John]

Sorry to hijack your thread Shawn but does anyone know if its sikaflex used to stick the pod to the perspex?

[llanelli-rob]

Info on the Griffith pages I think somewhere!

See link............





www.thegriffithpages.com/component/option,com_frontpage/Itemid,1/

[mf68]

aussie john

i used the silkaflex to seal the perspex to the pod and then also went round the edge with it as well leaving it over night before putting them back in i also made a rubber gator to go round the bulb housing and the back of the pod to stop all the little bits of dirt that seem to get in.
Griffsmith done a very good report on how to do on
www.warks-tvr.org.uk/index.php in the tech tips section hope its of use..

martin

[Griffsmith]

Tegriffic said:

I need to replace the sealent around the light pods. What's the best product to use and any tips as how to make it tidy ?

Hi Shawn I got a spare tube of what I used for mine Sikaflex 291 not sure which is the best type of sikaflex to use but it was a for fibreglass and perspex sealing on boats so though it would do the trick. your welcome to it if you want it.. I bought two but only needed one so its no good to me and neds using cos they have a 'shelflife'..

I could give you a few tips as well but all in all I found it a lot easier than I was expecting and just needs a bit of care to get a good finish. and any minor smears of sealant clean up really easily when cured..

cheers for the plug mf68 so yours went ok then??

give me a shout if you want it Shawn...

[mf68]

griffsmith
Cheers every thing went fine and very pleased with the results, also having cleaned the actual light lenses has made quite a difference at night time,
having next week of to fit a new carpet set from coverdale, thing that is going to be one that is harder than it looks,
will hunt you out at the growl for a beer
martin

[TeGriffic]

Griffsmith said:

[quote=Tegriffic]give me a shout if you want it Shawn...

If you don't want it. I'd certainly be interested in the tips, me and sealent products in the past have always shared a tense relationship.

[v8sag]

The only problem with sikaflex is that it skins very quickly and doesn't like being worked.
I would also suggest a good MS urethane that is a neutral cure,ie,non aesitic.
Urethane has a very good bonding strength,Sikaflex is a bit of a overkill unless you need it for its very high bonding strength which is not needed on this application.
Its more to do with preparation,makeing sure both mating parts/surfaces are clean.

[Griffsmith]

v8sag said:

The only problem with sikaflex is that it skins very quickly and doesn't like being worked. I would also suggest a good MS urethane that is a neutral cure,ie,non aesitic. Urethane has a very good bonding strength,Sikaflex is a bit of a overkill unless you need it for its very high bonding strength which is not needed on this application. Its more to do with preparation,makeing sure both mating parts/surfaces are clean.

I know what you mean but found when I did mine that, the time it took to skin was easily long enough. It very much a case of run round a small bead, one stroke, may be two strokes with an appropriate tool and don't touch it again!! no fiddling it just spoils it, so a longer curing time is just not required. it also cleaned up really easily when cured from both paint and perspex. I take your point that sikaflex is overkill in terms of bond strength but it certainly stuck them on, its readily available and I don't plan on taking mine out ever again

Shawn your more than welcome to it its not doing me any good sat in my garage. when are you doing them, I can give you a hand.