Who has what Chevy variant?
Discussion
Just curious as this will probably only apply to those who have passed SVA. Is anyone running with:-
1) An all ally block?
2) Who has Fuel Injection?
3) A dry sump system??
4) Does anyone have a SBC which is normally aspirated and puts out over 600bhp. If so how is drive-ability?
I would be interested to know any pitfalls etc as I am looking to consider some different options now I have the car how I like it, while retaining the chevy lump.
Sorry for all the questions - I just gotta know
1) An all ally block?
2) Who has Fuel Injection?
3) A dry sump system??
4) Does anyone have a SBC which is normally aspirated and puts out over 600bhp. If so how is drive-ability?
I would be interested to know any pitfalls etc as I am looking to consider some different options now I have the car how I like it, while retaining the chevy lump.
Sorry for all the questions - I just gotta know
B1ECC, and your running a Ford, right? 
I've got a DIY jobbie, I'm poor you see!
406cid
Edelbrock Performer RPM package:-
Cam & followers
Roller Rockers
Heads
Inlet Manifold
750cfm Carb
15" Air Filter
Gives me about 450bhp and heaps of torque.
I've got a mate who is having Peter Knight put together a 600-650bhp NA Alloy block SBC with EFI and all the goodies. No car to put it in at the moment mind you, it will be going into an Ultima though.
Paul
I've got a DIY jobbie, I'm poor you see!
406cid
Edelbrock Performer RPM package:-
Cam & followers
Roller Rockers
Heads
Inlet Manifold
750cfm Carb
15" Air Filter
Gives me about 450bhp and heaps of torque.
I've got a mate who is having Peter Knight put together a 600-650bhp NA Alloy block SBC with EFI and all the goodies. No car to put it in at the moment mind you, it will be going into an Ultima though.
Paul
Certainly Gareth, but what I am trying to ascertain is that it is not necessarilly the most powerful mill which makes the fastest or best fun car to drive. I am trying to find a ballance between price and performance, driveability, and residual resale value and appeal, without throwing thousands down on the motor not to be recovered.
I am, as usual, overwhelmed with the choices of what motor to put in next, and the decision making process is being blurred by the large scale of available options and engines.
Whatever option I go with, I know it has to be dry-sumped. I also wouldn't mind an alloy block, decent FI, oh god here I go again
I am, as usual, overwhelmed with the choices of what motor to put in next, and the decision making process is being blurred by the large scale of available options and engines.
Whatever option I go with, I know it has to be dry-sumped. I also wouldn't mind an alloy block, decent FI, oh god here I go again
well..give it a year and ask yourself the same question again 
There's a lot of people who I have being gaining advice from including a certain guru from a well known chevy forum, many experienced engine builders in this country and abroad, and basically everyone says the same - if your going to throw the car about, go dry sump. This advice I have gained is un-biased and consistent.
DISCLAIMER - I am NOT saying that there's anything wrong with the lubrication system on the factory cars, yours or anyone else's motor.
I prefer to look at it as an extra insurance policy to prevent the unthinkable from happening. I mean you engine cost you circa £10k? So what does another £1500 weigh up against the knowledge that as long as you perform regular maintenence on the pump belt, you can guarantee that at no time ever, will your oil pressure drop. Also it won't make your oil into milkshake while its scavenging trying to slurp up whatever it can find while the oil is playing "spiderman" and sticking to every surface apart from the floor of the wing-ed sump where it should be! After all, we all know that you only need to go "dry" for a second and the damage is done...so why chance it?
There's a lot of people who I have being gaining advice from including a certain guru from a well known chevy forum, many experienced engine builders in this country and abroad, and basically everyone says the same - if your going to throw the car about, go dry sump. This advice I have gained is un-biased and consistent.
DISCLAIMER - I am NOT saying that there's anything wrong with the lubrication system on the factory cars, yours or anyone else's motor.
I prefer to look at it as an extra insurance policy to prevent the unthinkable from happening. I mean you engine cost you circa £10k? So what does another £1500 weigh up against the knowledge that as long as you perform regular maintenence on the pump belt, you can guarantee that at no time ever, will your oil pressure drop. Also it won't make your oil into milkshake while its scavenging trying to slurp up whatever it can find while the oil is playing "spiderman" and sticking to every surface apart from the floor of the wing-ed sump where it should be! After all, we all know that you only need to go "dry" for a second and the damage is done...so why chance it?
Now there's an offer I can't refuse! It's a shame you can't make the PH meet on Sunday as I could sample your wares there!
My so called "reliable" Rice-burner has also let me down today with clutch master cylinder problems, so I have no working cars at all.
At this rate I will end up going to the PH meet by motorcycle...and all you Can Am guys thought you had problems this Sunday coming? !!
My so called "reliable" Rice-burner has also let me down today with clutch master cylinder problems, so I have no working cars at all.
At this rate I will end up going to the PH meet by motorcycle...and all you Can Am guys thought you had problems this Sunday coming? !!
G-Man,
Is your engine anywhere on the web? Who built it? It sounds nice. It is simular to my wish list other than no EFI. What is your maintenance routine on it.
Can anyone comment on the accusump vs. a traditional dry sump. Will the accusump be okay for weekend racers? Who sells the traditional dry sump for chevy's.?
Thanks
Is your engine anywhere on the web? Who built it? It sounds nice. It is simular to my wish list other than no EFI. What is your maintenance routine on it.
Can anyone comment on the accusump vs. a traditional dry sump. Will the accusump be okay for weekend racers? Who sells the traditional dry sump for chevy's.?
Thanks
For any serious track use you should go Dry Sump .... for the £1.5k or so it cost it's a lot cheaper than a re-build.
The Accsump is better to have than nothing, I was told by a highly rated engine builder that "If you ever see your oil light on a race track, pull off and whatch from the pits. Your Accusump would probably save the engine, but don't push your luck"
The Accsump is better to have than nothing, I was told by a highly rated engine builder that "If you ever see your oil light on a race track, pull off and whatch from the pits. Your Accusump would probably save the engine, but don't push your luck"
PiB
The engine was my spec, build after tender by American Speed,
Basics are Dart Alloy Block, Lightweight crank and rods ( Childs&Albert) 18dgree Chapman Head, dry sump
jesel value gear etc
The dry sump system saved my engine in a different way, when I forgot to replace the oil cap on the tanks and drove 50 miles spraying oil, because the dry sump operates a scavenge system the pressure never dropped and I realised my mistake, and kicked myself
G MAN
>> Edited by G Man on Thursday 30th January 11:24
The engine was my spec, build after tender by American Speed,
Basics are Dart Alloy Block, Lightweight crank and rods ( Childs&Albert) 18dgree Chapman Head, dry sump
jesel value gear etc
The dry sump system saved my engine in a different way, when I forgot to replace the oil cap on the tanks and drove 50 miles spraying oil, because the dry sump operates a scavenge system the pressure never dropped and I realised my mistake, and kicked myself
G MAN
>> Edited by G Man on Thursday 30th January 11:24
G Man said: PiB
The engine was my spec, build after tender by American Speed,
Basics are Dart Alloy Block, Lightweight crank and rods ( Childs&Albert) 18dgree Chapman Head, dry sump
jesel value gear etc
The dry sump system saved my engine in a different way, when I forgot to replace the oil cap on the tanks and drove 50 miles spraying oil, because the dry sump operates a scavenge system the pressure never dropped and I realised my mistake, and kicked myself
G MAN
>> Edited by G Man on Thursday 30th January 11:24
But did you find the caps mate?
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