Chimaera brake lights
Discussion
I took my Chimaera for an MOT yesterday. I sheepishly passed the tester a new headlight bulb, as I knew that to be 'defective' and it's frankly much easier to fit them from beneath (that and the offer of a 'drink'!). Anyway, everything was fine until he checked the rear lights and announced that the brake lights weren't working and failed it anyway. I have checked the bulbs, the pedal switch and the designated fuse (according to the owners manual) but to no avail. Does anybody have any bright ideas? Many thanks............
Which lights does it have - Fiesta or Challenger tank?
The fuse may not be the one stated in the owner's manual! According to the 'bible' it could be one of the following, depending on which fusebox it's fitted with:
No. 17 (also operates speedo and reversing lamps)
No. 18 (also operates wiper auto-park)
No. 19 (also operates wipers)
How did you test the switch?
Presumably the tail lights work (they share the same earth)?
The fuse may not be the one stated in the owner's manual! According to the 'bible' it could be one of the following, depending on which fusebox it's fitted with:
No. 17 (also operates speedo and reversing lamps)
No. 18 (also operates wiper auto-park)
No. 19 (also operates wipers)
How did you test the switch?
Presumably the tail lights work (they share the same earth)?
Thanks for the reply. The lights, speedo, wipers, etc, all work so I am presuming the fusebox is not the root of the problem. Tail lights, fog lights, reversing lights also work, so no clues there. I gave the switch a visual inspection and it seems to be working OK (i.e. there is an audiable click on depression). I don't have a test meter so haven't checked the circuit (which I suppose would be sensible). It is a facelift model with the later rear lights. Trying to avoid that inevitable dealer visit and resulting bill!
It will almost certainly be the switch - I had this problem at the weekend.
Squeeze yourself into the footwell and join the wires off the switch together, ignition on, do brake lights illuminate? If yes then squeeze back into footwell with spanner and remove the switch.
If the switch is the same as on my car it will be white plastic and look like it cost all of 3 pence. Prise it apart as gently as possible, noting the position of the spring and contcts as it flies apart, clean up the contacts (emery papaer or dremel wire brush if you're lazy like me, bend the contacts strip so that the contact make and break when the plunger is pushed/released and press the switch back together.
I put some tape and a couple of cable ties around mine as one of the platic lugs broke off as I prised it apart.
It took me about 15 minutes from start to finish.
Good luck
TT
Squeeze yourself into the footwell and join the wires off the switch together, ignition on, do brake lights illuminate? If yes then squeeze back into footwell with spanner and remove the switch.
If the switch is the same as on my car it will be white plastic and look like it cost all of 3 pence. Prise it apart as gently as possible, noting the position of the spring and contcts as it flies apart, clean up the contacts (emery papaer or dremel wire brush if you're lazy like me, bend the contacts strip so that the contact make and break when the plunger is pushed/released and press the switch back together.
I put some tape and a couple of cable ties around mine as one of the platic lugs broke off as I prised it apart.
It took me about 15 minutes from start to finish.
Good luck
TT
Edited by tyre_tread on Wednesday 7th June 00:02
Hi Guys. Just to let you know that I tried your suggestions to no avail. Even with the switch wires together there is still no joy with brake lights. I am absolutely stumped and a call to my local dealer ended in the 'TVR wiring can be very complicated' type conversation and the suggestion I book it in! And just when the weather has got better..........
I know you said so, but are you are 100% certain the lamps are ok?
If you don't have a meter, use a spare 12V lamp preferably in a holder, but with two wires taped to it if you don't have one (careful not to short them out). Connect one wire to a known good earth, the other to the brake light switch terminals, one at a time, with the ignition on. If one lights the lamp, you have a supply from the fusebox; if not, the problem lies between the supply and the switch.
If there is a supply, do a similar test at the rear lights themselves.
There might be a connection in the loom behind the nearside trim panel (behind the passenger seat), but I'm not certain. Check the connections in there are good.
If you don't have a meter, use a spare 12V lamp preferably in a holder, but with two wires taped to it if you don't have one (careful not to short them out). Connect one wire to a known good earth, the other to the brake light switch terminals, one at a time, with the ignition on. If one lights the lamp, you have a supply from the fusebox; if not, the problem lies between the supply and the switch.
If there is a supply, do a similar test at the rear lights themselves.
There might be a connection in the loom behind the nearside trim panel (behind the passenger seat), but I'm not certain. Check the connections in there are good.
Thanks again for the suggestions. I have just been out and purchased a shiny new test meter (like everything else in my garage that the kids have access to, the previous one seems to have been stripped down to its component parts and vapourised!). Anyway, I will give it a go later and see if I can isolate the problem. Failing that, it's off to Mole Valley tomorrow. My best guess at the moment is that I may have been driving around for the last 4 - 6 weeks with no brake lights as I had some other electrical 'issues' (doors refused to open) about that time and the car spent a few days at MV being repaired. I guess it's therefore possible that in their eagerness to fix the door problem, another was created.........
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