Slack front wheel bearing
Discussion
There is a lot of play in the nearside bearing, much more than on the offside, but no noise or roughness. I am going to re-tighten it in case it was not torqued up properly in the first place, to see if this solves the problem.
Question is how do you remove the bearing cover from the hub? It looks kike its just pressed in but I cant see how to lever it out.
Pete
Question is how do you remove the bearing cover from the hub? It looks kike its just pressed in but I cant see how to lever it out.
Pete
don`t just do it back up, if there is quite a bit of slack in it it will fail very quickly if you do it back up now.
taper bearings are not tourqued they are tightened to remove slack when new or slightly worn.
If the bearing has been running loose it will wear rapidly/unevenly/hot
when you then retighten it,
the reason it gets hot and fails as the needle rollers are no longer running smoothly in the race(casing)and they try to turn side ways and bind.
bearings are cheap and easily avaiable from bearing stockists if you cant get one from tvr,
It is not worth ruining the stub axle/hub or even losing a wheel,
taper bearings are not tourqued they are tightened to remove slack when new or slightly worn.
If the bearing has been running loose it will wear rapidly/unevenly/hot
when you then retighten it,
the reason it gets hot and fails as the needle rollers are no longer running smoothly in the race(casing)and they try to turn side ways and bind.
bearings are cheap and easily avaiable from bearing stockists if you cant get one from tvr,
It is not worth ruining the stub axle/hub or even losing a wheel,
dickkark said:
don`t just do it back up, if there is quite a bit of slack in it it will fail very quickly if you do it back up now.
taper bearings are not torqued they are tightened to remove slack when new or slightly worn.
If the bearing has been running loose it will wear rapidly/unevenly/hot
when you then re tighten it,
the reason it gets hot and fails as the needle rollers are no longer running smoothly in the race(casing)and they try to turn side ways and bind.
bearings are cheap and easily available from bearing stockists if you cant get one from TVR,
It is not worth ruining the stub axle/hub or even losing a wheel,
taper bearings are not torqued they are tightened to remove slack when new or slightly worn.
If the bearing has been running loose it will wear rapidly/unevenly/hot
when you then re tighten it,
the reason it gets hot and fails as the needle rollers are no longer running smoothly in the race(casing)and they try to turn side ways and bind.
bearings are cheap and easily available from bearing stockists if you cant get one from TVR,
It is not worth ruining the stub axle/hub or even losing a wheel,
Very good advice.
New bearings are not expensive and fairly easy to change with just basic tools except for the need to torque the 41mm AF nut to something like 220 ft/lbs once assembled. You'll need an HGV torque wrench which will be at least 3/4" drive and about 3-4 foot long. I found it easier to tighten on the car with a helper standing on the brake pedal while you do it up.
Beware one side has a left hand thread, i just can't remember which side it is but I'm sure somebody will be along in a mo who does.
Andy
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